Timing w/ 190's
#1
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Timing w/ 190's
Have the POD's in right now, gettin kinda tired of the constant smoke they always put off, especially around town. Not so much the black at WOT but the constant blue haze. Timing is at 1.9mm right now. Where do most folks run the timing with the 190's? I actually backed the timing off ONE WHOLE GEAR TOOTH this summmer and it made the truck sooooo much quieter and smoother. Didn't check timing before, but after I backed it down the tooth, I measured it and got ~1.9. Just wondering other's experiences w/ 190's. They seem to burn pretty clean from what I've read. Thanks,
Brian
Brian
#2
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The standard 1/8" timing bump (about 1.65 mm) seems to work well with the 190's.
Are you running the thinnest coppers under the POD's?
I'm not sure how you got 1.9 mm by jumping back a tooth. Either you measured wrong or you jumped it forward a tooth.
Are you running the thinnest coppers under the POD's?
I'm not sure how you got 1.9 mm by jumping back a tooth. Either you measured wrong or you jumped it forward a tooth.
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Originally Posted by wannadiesel
The standard 1/8" timing bump (about 1.65 mm) seems to work well with the 190's.
Are you running the thinnest coppers under the POD's?
I'm not sure how you got 1.9 mm by jumping back a tooth. Either you measured wrong or you jumped it forward a tooth.
Are you running the thinnest coppers under the POD's?
I'm not sure how you got 1.9 mm by jumping back a tooth. Either you measured wrong or you jumped it forward a tooth.
Thinnest coppers? Well, I'm just running whatever came with the POD's...ebay purchase. Could I be using ones that are too thick and the injector isn't sticking far enough in? As far as the timing, I am positive that I ended up retarding it a tooth. Originally the pump was at max advance, and I figured it was retarded a tooth due to all the constant blue smoke. Went in there (and spent hours inbetween several times pondering this) and advanced it a tooth...fired up, loud as all get out, barely idled, lotsa white smoke and tap the throttle and you needed ear plugs. Decided this was bad and didn't drive it. Retarded it 2 teeth (one retarded from where it was originally) and fired it up, idles smooth as silk, picked up about 25-50rpm at idle, drives smoother, runs smoother and better, quieter too. At this point I broke down and actually measured the timing and this is where I measured 1.9mm. I was told by a friend that borrowed it when it was still stock and put several hundred miles on it that it was one of the loudest diesels he's driven. This is my first, so I had nothing to base it on. Thanks for the help here, I appreciate it.
Brian
#4
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Yes, you might need thinner washers. I believe the right ones are 0.020".
My truck does not haze much at all. When temps are in the 20's or lower and it gets started dead cold, it will haze some. Also it will put out a very light trail (I couldn't see it before I put on the stack) at light throttle/low RPM cruise. Does not haze at idle once it's warmed up.
My truck does not haze much at all. When temps are in the 20's or lower and it gets started dead cold, it will haze some. Also it will put out a very light trail (I couldn't see it before I put on the stack) at light throttle/low RPM cruise. Does not haze at idle once it's warmed up.
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Originally Posted by wannadiesel
Yes, you might need thinner washers. I believe the right ones are 0.020".
My truck does not haze much at all. When temps are in the 20's or lower and it gets started dead cold, it will haze some. Also it will put out a very light trail (I couldn't see it before I put on the stack) at light throttle/low RPM cruise. Does not haze at idle once it's warmed up.
My truck does not haze much at all. When temps are in the 20's or lower and it gets started dead cold, it will haze some. Also it will put out a very light trail (I couldn't see it before I put on the stack) at light throttle/low RPM cruise. Does not haze at idle once it's warmed up.
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I'd like to support the opinion regarding the washer size to be used....it should be the thinnest of the set, that being, the 20 thou washer.
Also, while this may be blatantly obvious don't forget to make sure that all the old washers come off with the injector as you remove it...they have been known to stick down inside the hole.
Next item I'd like to toss out for thought/discussion is the smoke issue.....
I've seen lots of aftermarket injectors go into our model year trucks/VE pump equipped....
I'm kinda convinced that the smoke issue is not related to any one single issue...it is, in my opinion, related directly to injector/tip type, timing, popoff setting, pump condition, and supply pump condition...
In other words if we had a brand new lift pump, VE pump, proper timing, perfectly balanced set of nozzles then we'd see much less smoke across the operating band from idle on up....and yes, upgrade injectors do often cause a slight loss of idle RPM.
Remember what happens as we tweak up these pumps and, this is probably applicable to all pumps but ours in particular.
As we work them harder the cam plate and roller ring begin to wear/flatten out and the stroke (via cam ring lobe height) begins to drop off. If you've looked at the pictures of the VE that I and others have posted both in the forums and in our readers rigs gallery you'll see what I'm referring to...
Just a thought....open for discussion...
pb....
Also, while this may be blatantly obvious don't forget to make sure that all the old washers come off with the injector as you remove it...they have been known to stick down inside the hole.
Next item I'd like to toss out for thought/discussion is the smoke issue.....
I've seen lots of aftermarket injectors go into our model year trucks/VE pump equipped....
I'm kinda convinced that the smoke issue is not related to any one single issue...it is, in my opinion, related directly to injector/tip type, timing, popoff setting, pump condition, and supply pump condition...
In other words if we had a brand new lift pump, VE pump, proper timing, perfectly balanced set of nozzles then we'd see much less smoke across the operating band from idle on up....and yes, upgrade injectors do often cause a slight loss of idle RPM.
Remember what happens as we tweak up these pumps and, this is probably applicable to all pumps but ours in particular.
As we work them harder the cam plate and roller ring begin to wear/flatten out and the stroke (via cam ring lobe height) begins to drop off. If you've looked at the pictures of the VE that I and others have posted both in the forums and in our readers rigs gallery you'll see what I'm referring to...
Just a thought....open for discussion...
pb....
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#8
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Originally Posted by wannadiesel
Yes, you might need thinner washers. I believe the right ones are 0.020".
My truck does not haze much at all. When temps are in the 20's or lower and it gets started dead cold, it will haze some. Also it will put out a very light trail (I couldn't see it before I put on the stack) at light throttle/low RPM cruise. Does not haze at idle once it's warmed up.
My truck does not haze much at all. When temps are in the 20's or lower and it gets started dead cold, it will haze some. Also it will put out a very light trail (I couldn't see it before I put on the stack) at light throttle/low RPM cruise. Does not haze at idle once it's warmed up.
#9
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I agree that the smoke issue isrelated to a number of variables. My VE is a 9-month-old Bosch reman. There's a cold start pic in my gallery (0 degrees F). That's pre-stock replacement lift pump. After the lift pump went in a couple weeks ago, I have virtually no smoke on cold start, at least down to 15 degrees...hasn't gotten colder than that yet.
PB:You still didn't say WHY upgrade injectors tend to lower idle speed. Does higher pop pressure alone retard the onset of ignition enough to affect idle
PB:You still didn't say WHY upgrade injectors tend to lower idle speed. Does higher pop pressure alone retard the onset of ignition enough to affect idle
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