Dean Snow

Well this is my daily driver and with out it I'm losing around 150 bucks a day. So I defiantly need to take it to a pro then! thanks!

Hows the luck with AAA transmission shops? I was thinking of taking it to one of them

Dean Snow

well here are some pictures if anyone wants to check them out. I just pulled the cover off the bell housing and looked up into the tranny and my torque converter is covered with fluid along with fluid leaking out around slightly.

Could there be a possibility that the torque converter went bad and that happened? Or is that just the input shaft seal leaking in there? Would that cause my problems i have now?

JD730

Sorry, I had suggested it in one of your other threads. Yup that kind of gauge will work fine.

Sounds like it wiped the front seal out. Why I can't say, but who ever works on that trans needs to be aware that everything needs to be looked at. It could also be more than 1 problem, it could be several little things that add up.

Dean Snow

So you guys think it is a pressure problem? Could a kickdown cable not being adjusted right cause this. Because i unhooked the kickdown cable and its about 75 percent better. it just feels like im running it without a kick down cable? any suggestions?

DodgeFreak

Does it go into gear if you just let it sit in neutral for a few seconds before going to another gear?? I guess i didn't look at the other thread. but we had a dakota that would do that it would take a little throttle to get it to go into gear enless we let the converter fill back up first. which we drove it that way for ever.

Dean Snow

It just takes a few seconds and kicks into gear

JD730

Is that every time you go into gear? What happens when you have it in gear, put it in neutral and then put it back in gear?

Dean Snow

Well since i unhooked the kick down cable it only slips in reverse now and thats only a little bit. When i first put it into gear it takes a few seconds until it wants to go in then its fine from then on. I can put it into any gear after except for reverse and it wont slip after i already put it in drive. I will be home in a little bit and I'm going to drop the tranny apart and see what I can figure out as I'm having one of my friends who are really good with that stuff stop out and help.


JD---What should the trans pressures be also? I have the gauge hooked up just dont know what it should be reading? Thanks

JD730

The "kick down cable" is important. You should have it hooked up. What it does is when you apply throttle it raises transmission line pressure, it is for 2 reasons, apply more pressure to the clutches/bands and also to delay the next gear shift, if you where accelerating quickly vs. just idling.

Slipping in reverse is a bad sign, the front clutch is cooked. 3rd gear is soon to follow.

Where is your gauge hooked up? Some ports do not get fed pressure in certain gears.

In forward gears measured at the accumulator port, which is in the center of the trans on the passenger side. With a stock valve body I would expect to see. min 54-60psi and max 90-96psi. Min is at idle and max would be with the what your calling the kick down cable in the WOT position.

On a modified valvebody like mine I usually see 90 at idle and 140 with the kick down cable moved.

John Faughn

I did not see where the posting of requested info showed up .

http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmissio...T_band_adj.htm

ChrisLib

Just a thought after looking at those pics, the pump seal is most likely the source of the leak, that coupled with you what sounds like a low line psi problem would lead me to be looking for a trashed pump. Probably the T/C bushing in the pump causing the leak and suspected low pressure. Also that fluid dripping off the b-housing is absolutely nasy/brown/mungy looking, a sure sign of crsipy innards unfortunately.

Dean Snow

I just got around to pulling the transmission pan off tonight. The magnet in the pan was about double the size due to some gunk stuck to it. My filter had what looked to be "brass" shavings all over it? And the fluid still had a reddish tint to it also, a little darker than it should be, i think. It smelled like used transmission fluid, not burnt yet. When i pulled it off i was looking at the kick down cable in there. There is like a little pin thing in the valve body that the kick down cable lever pushes against in there. when at idle should that lever just be TOUCHING the pin? or should it be above 1/2 inch away from the pin? Because mine at idle has the lever half inch away from the pin and at what i would say half throttle or just a hair more than half throttle it then begins to touch the pin. There were no big chunks of metal in there either. Just small shards but not a bunch. My main concern is what looked like brass shavings. Thanks

And how do i go about getting ALL of the transmission fluid out of the lines ect ect. Because only maybe a gallon came out. Do i start the truck up and let it pour the old fluid out while adding new or how does that work?

I was thinking tomorrow since the fluid didn't look too burnt that im going to pull off all the external lines into the radiator and into the external transmission cooler under the bed and check them out and blow air into all of them. I just want to wipe out every other possibility before I go back to another transmission shop. Plus i have nothing better to do after work.

This could be one of the stupidest things I asked in a long time:
But could a clogged filter cause these problems I am describing? Because the filter looked bad and it was all sludged up! It looked like the shop that built my tranny used the old filter almost. I don't even know if fluid was able to flow through it.

wannadiesel

You don't need to clear the old fluid out of the lines, it went through the filter before it went into the lines.

Your filter is sludged up because the front clutch is toasted. All that "sludge" is friction material off the clutch discs.

It is beyond being fixed with a fluid change, you need to have a competent shop rebuild the trans. At this point you are wasting time and money changing the fluid. If the old stuff is in a clean pan, dump it back in and limp to the trans shop of your choice.

DodgeFreak

you can flush the whole system with a machine or do what you said pull a cooler line and let it pump out while adding new to it till it comes out clean. but your already to far gone for that to help any. Also the sludge on the filter could cause it to hesitate going into gear but as mentioned before your to far gone for any good. Best thing to do is to just go ahead and drop the trans out and take it to a good shop that way you can save a few dollars enless they won't take it with out it being in the truck. or buy a reman\rebuilt trans from a store give them your core and just do a direct swap which would be the fastest but might not be the cheapest. depending on how long you want your truck down for. also acording to mitchell the flat rate to remove and install plus over haul is 15.3 hours for a 4wd plus maybe an hour for diagnosis, or 8.5 hours with it removed already and just the overhaul. that way you kind of know if they are pulling your chain about how long it should be. This won't be a exactly as they say but if they say they are charging you for 25 hours worth of time or something then i'd question them.

dozer12216

Hello, trans shop is my echo also.