Pacman400

So I got to thinking the other day "what would I do if one day my truck decided to runaway?" (I know it's highly unlikely for it to randomly run away but I'm pretty unlucky) so anyways my thoughts were if You put a garbage bag over the filter it would kill it right? I know there would be damage to the air filter but hey it's better than a rod threw the block lol. And a garbage bag is small and would fit under the seat or in the tool box. Think it would work?
Also this would be more for a cold air setup with the filter in the open.

NJTman

I like this idea

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...y-t297596.html

sootnsmoke

Based on the initial collapse to air filter media on initial motor start up in the below thread, I would initially say no to a garbage bag. Keep in the mind the filter collapse was just on motor start up. I can't imagine a roaring runaway motor at high RPM would do anything less than suck pieces of ripped filter media through the turbo. However, along the lines of your question, a trashed turbo is better than a rod through the block. The problem I see with a tool such as Jim's is that you need to take the time to remove the intake to use it. Especially in the case of an early Non I/C first gen with an intake horn, that is gonna take some time. Imagine calmly removing the air intake assembly with the motor screaming, hoping you can get to the point of using your tool before throwing a rod.

It would be nice to have a run away engine kill solution aside from a garbage bag and something more practical and immediate than a block plate. Seems the block plate is more suited as a "tuning aftermath" tool to have handy when turning up the fuel screw or after completing work on the injector pump. In such scenarios you already have the air intake removed on start up just in case there is a run away condition you need to address after tuning or modifications.


https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...g-t270031.html

Jim Lane

That is good to always be thinking What If

The only problem that I can see with the bag over the air filter idea is it would all be over before you got the bag from under the seat.

I have had several almost runaways on my Cummins while I have been working on my pump and luckily I had the crossover removed so I could choke off the air supply.

There are several reasons why your engine can runaway, you could have a mechanical failure of the governor,
Or some day you could pull up the pump to get fuel just as the lady on the island next to you drops the nozzle spraying gasoline on the ground, your engine would ingest the gas vapors and you would have a runaway.

If you were lucky you were able to get the hood open and unload your 5# Co2 extinguisher into the air cleaner.

This is why any diesel that operates where there might be a hydrocarbon atmosphere must be equipped with a positive air shutoff, usually a butterfly or a guillotine valve.

I constantly think about this when I get fuel.

Here are a few examples of a runaway.

Here the mechanic was able to shut down the engine by dropping the flap on the intake.





This UPS drives does not have a clue what he is doing, he thinks if he disconnects the battery it will stop.




Jim

bobva

I'm sure you can hook this up to a cable pull system, Or even a electric solenoid.

http://www.dealtime.com/nibco-brass-...Jg==/info?sb=1

Jim Lane

I think it would be easy to build one out of an exhaust brake or a heat riser valve.
Once tripped you want the airflow to hold the valve shut.

Jim

Trebor

You can plumb your 5# CO2 extinguisher directly into the air intake near the filter by simply removing the extinguisher tip and adding an appropriate length hose. The extinguisher can be semi-permanently mounted anywhere that is easily accessible inside the cab. If you have an OEM style air cleaner still intact you can dump the extinguisher directly into the filter inlet without lifting the hood. Gasoline fumes that are aerated from tankers dumping gasoline at a service station offer very little threat due to a lack of fume concentration. The tanks are generally vented at a specified distance from the customer areas. The gas threat comes from encountering a pool of natural gas or propane that has settled into a slow moving or stagnant puddle that you end up driving into. The aftermarket has spring loaded cable operated guillotine type shut off valves that go in between the air cleaner and the turbo inlet. If anybody is interested I can probably dig up a link to where they are sold. Also note that if you use a extinguisher it must not be a water type or one rated as ABC because both will have ill effects on your engine.

BKTC

Do you have to shut off the air supply ? Can't you just shut off the fuel supply as in the manual fuel shutoff........

If you run a cable shutoff to the cab you could just shut off the fuel supply like you would if your were using a manual shutoff insted of the electrical shutoff. YES???????

Please tell me if I'm wrong......

Billy

j_martin

If you starve it for fuel, you will usually toast the IP. Also, an engine can run away from cylinder damage, burning engine lube oil. I saw a semi do that back in the 60's when I was a kid. Last I saw him, the driver was putting foot prints down about 8 feet apart. Engine scattered parts all over the loading dock.

A positive air shutoff will always shut em down with minimum damage.

deanhinsley1963

You are wrong the diesel engine can even burn its own oil. Say in the event of turbo seal failure in such case the oil becomes the fuel. Same with propane or gas fumes in proper concentrations.

bannerd

Somethings I thought about;

Maybe tap/weld the intake system with a valve (ball or threaded). You can buy c02 fire extinguishers at home depot for 78$ (small ones). Open the valve on the intake.. insert the fire extinguisher tube and let it rip. Should stall the motor instantly.

Other options;

Throw the truck in the highest gear and apply the brakes (manual).

Build a intake box around the air filter, use a fire extinguisher and fill the box. A powder would work better to clog the intake filter.

If you want to get really fancy.. "Safecraft" sells fire suppression kits. Tap the intake.. run the tubing to the jet system. Run the handle inside the cab, Engine runs away.. don't even need to get out.. pull the handle and its over with

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SAF-LT5AAB/?rtype=10

It uses halon so you might need to read up on what bottle you want (enviromental laws...). c02 would work fine.

rebal

IF you have not been next to a runaway engine it will put the old ticker in your throat ,I had a Detroit diesel 8v71 take off on engine oil from a melted piston filling the air box with oil and had a 5.9 runaway on fuel shutting the air off is the only way to go and a fresh set of under pants in the tool box is a must

Trebor

Swing gate diesel engine shut downs:
http://www.rodadeaco.com/products-swing-gate.asp

bannerd

haha

cougar

My thoughts,
Using the FSS or the manual shut off does not "starve" the injection pump of fuel. If this was true you would be damaging your pump every time you shut it down.
If you cut off the air, all that unburned fuel can hydro lock cylinders. That bends rods and can sometimes launch the head off the top of the block.
And yes, a diesel can run on scavenged oil from the block. My 6.9 Navstar did it every time the fuel filter clogged up. But that engine was worn out so don't use it as a norm.
Now consider this. You remove the hose at the horn and used that point to block off the air in case of run away. You adjust your fuel screw to the ragged edge. Perfect, put it all back together and go for a test run. Are you thinking about boost and your fuel pin? You should be because it effects the position of the governor.