For those with the CC driveline shudder
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
For those with the CC driveline shudder
Still chasing this issue, and noticed that my 4WD shifter wobbles also when the low speed shudder is present (can actually put my hand on it and feel it pulsate). Do others with this shudder--sometimes associated with the rear diff--feel this? After replacing almost all the driveline components I'm looking at other possibilities.
Things done so far....
Tranny - check
tranny mounts - check
all fluids - check
forward u-joint - check
carrier bearing - check
tsb for carrier bearing - check
middle and rear u-joints - appear fine
powerlock lsd - check (new 1.5 years ago)
phasing of driveshaft slipline - check
Did any of yous notice the 4WD lever moving during the shuddering (before the fix).
when rear driveline is dropped and 4wd engaged there is no apparent shudder
D
Things done so far....
Tranny - check
tranny mounts - check
all fluids - check
forward u-joint - check
carrier bearing - check
tsb for carrier bearing - check
middle and rear u-joints - appear fine
powerlock lsd - check (new 1.5 years ago)
phasing of driveshaft slipline - check
Did any of yous notice the 4WD lever moving during the shuddering (before the fix).
when rear driveline is dropped and 4wd engaged there is no apparent shudder
D
#2
Registered User
My old 727 did it when just starting out from a stop. turned out to be a valve went bad in the valve body. the dealer replaced the driveline and that did nothing so it went back. Next round they checked the transmission and found the valve that was galded. it worked good for 10 years after that. until I took it out.
#3
Dodge released a TSB about this issue. What they said to do was drop the carrier bearing down from its current position. I think they said use a 1/2" thick spacer. I started with a 1/4". It dropped the vibrations some. I added another 1/4" spacer and the problem went away.
I just used a piece of 1/4" flat stock the width of the carrier bearing mount. Drill the holes for the carrier bearing mount spacing.
I went threw my TSB book. The TSB # 03-02-93
TSB 03-02-93
I just used a piece of 1/4" flat stock the width of the carrier bearing mount. Drill the holes for the carrier bearing mount spacing.
I went threw my TSB book. The TSB # 03-02-93
TSB 03-02-93
#4
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Dodge released a TSB about this issue. What they said to do was drop the carrier bearing down from its current position. I think they said use a 1/2" thick spacer. I started with a 1/4". It dropped the vibrations some. I added another 1/4" spacer and the problem went away.
I just used a piece of 1/4" flat stock the width of the carrier bearing mount. Drill the holes for the carrier bearing mount spacing.
I went threw my TSB book. The TSB # 03-02-93
TSB 03-02-93
I just used a piece of 1/4" flat stock the width of the carrier bearing mount. Drill the holes for the carrier bearing mount spacing.
I went threw my TSB book. The TSB # 03-02-93
TSB 03-02-93
#5
Registered User
I have a similar problem, it is at low speeds, decelerating or constant. The truck will slowly bounce up and down. My 91.5 also did it and it was a short wheel base 5 speed.
#6
I did mine around 1998 or so. The first thing I did for the truck when I got it was to order all the manuals and the TSB book. I found that TSB one night setting back watching TV.
#7
Registered User
Lifting the rear will make it worse, Rule of thumb is 1/4" per inch added to the rear. This would be in addition to the 1/2" needed for a stock truck
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#8
Registered User
Dodge released a TSB about this issue. What they said to do was drop the carrier bearing down from its current position. I think they said use a 1/2" thick spacer. I started with a 1/4". It dropped the vibrations some. I added another 1/4" spacer and the problem went away.
I just used a piece of 1/4" flat stock the width of the carrier bearing mount. Drill the holes for the carrier bearing mount spacing.
I went threw my TSB book. The TSB # 03-02-93
TSB 03-02-93
I just used a piece of 1/4" flat stock the width of the carrier bearing mount. Drill the holes for the carrier bearing mount spacing.
I went threw my TSB book. The TSB # 03-02-93
TSB 03-02-93
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
UPDATE:
No surprise, but after 2yrs of chasing this worsening driveline shudder I decided to check all the u-joints again--even though they were newer. Sure enough the middle joint was showing a slight wobble during acceleration and I decided to replace it. FIXED! No more shudder. Lesson learned: start with the obvious simple stuff even though it may not be logical.
No surprise, but after 2yrs of chasing this worsening driveline shudder I decided to check all the u-joints again--even though they were newer. Sure enough the middle joint was showing a slight wobble during acceleration and I decided to replace it. FIXED! No more shudder. Lesson learned: start with the obvious simple stuff even though it may not be logical.
#10
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UPDATE:
No surprise, but after 2yrs of chasing this worsening driveline shudder I decided to check all the u-joints again--even though they were newer. Sure enough the middle joint was showing a slight wobble during acceleration and I decided to replace it. FIXED! No more shudder. Lesson learned: start with the obvious simple stuff even though it may not be logical.
No surprise, but after 2yrs of chasing this worsening driveline shudder I decided to check all the u-joints again--even though they were newer. Sure enough the middle joint was showing a slight wobble during acceleration and I decided to replace it. FIXED! No more shudder. Lesson learned: start with the obvious simple stuff even though it may not be logical.
K.I.S.S.
Keep It Simple Stupid
Personally, I have found that a good majority of manufacturers of U joints, as well as other parts for our rides, are designed for rapid failure. I replaced U joints in my brick's front D60 axle every two years like clockwork, and yet I greased them many many times over their lifespan. With how infrequent the front axles turn in my truck (from december through march) you would think that they'd last a bit longer. After dissecting each u-Joint, I found failure wasn't preventable, as they were blocked internally, preventing grease passage to 2 caps. Each replacement set had the same ending.
Now I use Spicer Non greasables. 2 + years and counting, but so far, nothing unusual.
Advance Auto U joints after 2 years of part time use:
#11
Registered User
K.I.S.S.
Keep It Simple Stupid
Personally, I have found that a good majority of manufacturers of U joints, as well as other parts for our rides, are designed for rapid failure. I replaced U joints in my brick's front D60 axle every two years like clockwork, and yet I greased them many many times over their lifespan. With how infrequent the front axles turn in my truck (from december through march) you would think that they'd last a bit longer. After dissecting each u-Joint, I found failure wasn't preventable, as they were blocked internally, preventing grease passage to 2 caps. Each replacement set had the same ending.
Now I use Spicer Non greasables. 2 + years and counting, but so far, nothing unusual.
Advance Auto U joints after 2 years of part time use:
Keep It Simple Stupid
Personally, I have found that a good majority of manufacturers of U joints, as well as other parts for our rides, are designed for rapid failure. I replaced U joints in my brick's front D60 axle every two years like clockwork, and yet I greased them many many times over their lifespan. With how infrequent the front axles turn in my truck (from december through march) you would think that they'd last a bit longer. After dissecting each u-Joint, I found failure wasn't preventable, as they were blocked internally, preventing grease passage to 2 caps. Each replacement set had the same ending.
Now I use Spicer Non greasables. 2 + years and counting, but so far, nothing unusual.
Advance Auto U joints after 2 years of part time use:
#12
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#15
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
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