1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

these are a PAIN

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Old 01-28-2015, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by maybe368
try to get every drop of air out of it
You ain't lived until you get hit in the head by a drop of air......Mark
Old 01-31-2015, 12:12 PM
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just installed the bendix mc. HUGE difference in the pedal. still not as good as id like them to be. i think im still going to delete the rwal valve.
Old 01-31-2015, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 1991.5 mopar
just installed the bendix mc. HUGE difference in the pedal. still not as good as id like them to be. i think im still going to delete the rwal valve.
Did you adjust the rear brakes? Are the antilock warning lights on? I would be real patient with bleeding them before I started deleting parts...Mark
Old 01-31-2015, 07:38 PM
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Rear brakes are adjusted, abs and parking brake light are on and have been for quite some time. I do not have a vacuum issue either
Old 01-31-2015, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 1991.5 mopar
Rear brakes are adjusted, abs and parking brake light are on and have been for quite some time. I do not have a vacuum issue either
These brakes can drive you nutz...Mark
Old 01-31-2015, 09:24 PM
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Yes I'm well aware lol I couldn't believe the difference between orileys brakebest mc compared to a bendix. Night and day difference
Old 01-31-2015, 11:13 PM
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I test all new master cylinders by plugging the line ports and filling them with brake fluid, then shaking it and moving it around as if it were in a moving vehicle. I have found the majority to be leakers. Just keep returning them until I get a good one. Beats installing each one only to find out that the cap will not seal.
Old 02-01-2015, 09:28 AM
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I had trouble with the frame mounted rabs keeping light on, and did the delete/bypass, and brakes worked great ever since, could very well be the cause of your troubles, glad to hear you have had success with the master, good job!
Old 02-03-2015, 11:35 PM
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Are your rear brakes adjusted up tight...I was having problems out of my leafy until I tightened up my rear brakes now pedal is full .
Old 02-03-2015, 11:37 PM
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Oops I just seen someone else mentioned this.....
Old 02-07-2015, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian.B
Are your rear brakes adjusted up tight...I was having problems out of my leafy until I tightened up my rear brakes now pedal is full .
Clarification on this comment along with all suggestions offered. About 6 months ago I battled all that the OP is battling with his brakes. Did the 3" shoes, larger cylinders, new booster, bled and bled till I bled! Swapped bleeders for speed bleeders so as not to suck air in as I was bleeding brakes myself. Adjusted the rear brakes by raising the rear end, spinning tires, and rotating the star wheel till slight drag. Finally deleted the RWAL valve and Wala! Awsome brakes! Well, 6 months later I'm noticing initial press down on brake pedal is lower and softer. A quick second pump and brakes are good again. I go to empty parking lot to go in reverse and stop 4x and rear brakes good again. I guess my question is can the adjustments on the rear go bad that adjustments are necessary as part of maintenance? Is the reverse and stop method as good as spinning tires and turning the star wheel w/ brake spoon?
Old 02-07-2015, 08:27 PM
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sounds like adjusters are to blame, check brake inspection slots for excessive shoe movement, you can readjust to restore pedal, should not have to readjust, just guessing.
Old 02-08-2015, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by sooty
sounds like adjusters are to blame, check brake inspection slots for excessive shoe movement, you can readjust to restore pedal, should not have to readjust, just guessing.
I forgot to mention along with new shoes and wheel cylinders I replaced every piece of hardware involved with the drum brake system, including the star wheel adjusters
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