I used my grinder, when you get it down to the threads, most will pull off. I ground into the tac-weld as much as i coult without getting into the threads, then took it down between the threads gently with a hacksaw blade. When grinding, use the rest so you don't launch it.

 

Okay, Redleg, a grinder makes sense. I don't have one, (at least not right now), so I may just have to wait and let "Mr. Goodwrench" do it when the injectors are installed. Then I can play.

 

My grinder was about $35 from Tractor Supply, and I'm sure it'll be around a long time.

 

Why not just remove the entire screw (you'll have a dribble or two of fuel..no big deal) once the screw is out...
Get a 1/4"drive ratchet with 6mm socket, and a 13 combo wrench.
Back the locknut off so it pushes the "collar" loose and backwards. I've done it this way half a dozen times with no problem.
You can even leave the collar on just enough to start covering the 6mm tip of the screw as a "safety margin".
Once you're done, thread the screw back in to the original position and tweak from there.... piece of cake and no grinders needed..

Pastor Bob.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, Pastor Bob. After reading Dana70's post again it sounds like the collar came off for him by just loosening the locknut. I guess I got concerned when Monty mentioned the o ring inside the pump. - - No offence meant Monty. I know you're just making sure everything is mentioned - - It's time for the Old Man to suck it up and just do it. Of course I should probably make sure the bicycle is ready is case I mess up.

 

Sorry if I mislead you, Though my lock ring did come off easy, I had to use a small screw driver to begin spreading it open, then I kind of worked it from there until I had it in position to twist it. The only thing is now my idle is a little high even after turning back the accellerator stop as far as I can. Any help here anyone? Lew

 

Yeah, it doesn't surprise me that I did the lock ring the HARD WAY. Lew, the low idle screw is between the pump and the engine. It has a pin hole in the end of it. It's tuff to get too, but you can reach it if your creative. Most drive the lock nout on and off with a screw driver. I bent a wire and stuck it through the pin hole, to turn the screw. Leaving the idle slightly higher than stock is suppose to be good for the engine, keeps the fluids happy.
Don.

 

If you've backed the low idle screw back and it still won't let your idle down, you need to make a small adjustment to the adjustable throttle rod.
Loosen the two locknuts near the ball ends, then turn the rod to lengthen it slightly.
Watch the breakover spring setting and make sure that the little metal post is touching the front part of the spring ends.
It serves as a bit of a shock absorber for "hard on it, instant off it" throttle applications.

Pastor Bob.

 

Bob's right on...
I have done it all the way he said. I removed the fuel screw and put it in the vise. Pryed the collar off and ran the nut down to clean the threads after some cleaning with a small instrument file. After I removed it I made a measurement and marked the original location of the lock nut and then went in from there.

I also had to adjust the rods for a lower idle and also had to "adjust" the linkage system for more travel in the other direction. Governor spring Bahh..LOL..

J-eh

 

I guess it's my turn to jump in here and recommend you have the timing set up some. It's something you can do yourself and only takes a few minutes.
Bob's a good one to get info from, he's old and wise.

Did I mention he is OLD?

ahem,,,, sorry Bob. Couldn't help myself. EH?


Dave

 

Bob and Monty - - Thanks for all the info on the power screw. I finally sucked it up and followed your instructions, Bob. :P Leaving the collar on for a reference point is a great idea. Nothing is easy to see down there. Before the "adjustment" I was lucky to get 13# to 14#'s boost. And that was loaded with the cab over camper. Just got back from a test run and got just over 20#'s empty. And, for the first time, almost spun a wheel. ;D

Now I've gotta get the idle and smoke adjusted, but couldn't wait to report the outcome.

 

Good to hear. Sounds like you are on your way. 8)

 

Yeah, Monty, the Old Man be on his way. Tomorrow the K&N air should be here. Injectors may be next and maybe get rid of the muffler. For me that may be about the end of it. (Have you heard that story before?) I don't have a need to go wild, just want enough "giddy up" to be able to pull those hills with the cab over on. 8)

 

Hey Don, don't want to rub it in but - - - . I broke the lock nut loose for the idle screw and then had to run a couple errands. Would you believe it, after driving about 40 miles the idle came down? Gotta set the lock nut now before it dies on me.

Bob, what about the timing? What will it do for me and how can it be done?
Pat

 

Ole Lucky Bob is gone on a hunting trip, but I will try and explain.

Pros of advanced timing:
1. Lower EGT's
2. Better top end
3. Better MPG

Cons of advanced timing:
1. Some low end lost


Looking at where the pump mounts to the back of the gear cover. You should see a scribe mark on the gear cover and one on the pump flange. This is the timing mark. Basically all you have to do is loosen off the injector pump and bump it towards the engine about a 1/8". This will give you about 1.45-1.55 mm advancement compared to your stock 1.25mm.

Loosen the 3 flange bolts off a little that holds the pump on the gear housing. You will need a "C" or "L" shaped wrench to get to the bottom bolt. The top bolt is a bugger as well.

Next, you will see a bracket mount on the lower backside of the pump. There will be one bolt that you need to loosen in order for the pump to move. Next, disconnect the AFC line going to the head of the VE. Now, some trucks only require you to go this far in order to move the pump an 1/8". OTOH, I am one that had to loosen the fuel lines at the pump and loosen the injector line clamps.

Well, thats about it. Guys, ring in here if I have missed something. Just remember to make your 1/8" mrk above the stock mark on the gear housing before you loosen the pump off.