which switch is which?
11-17-2004, 11:01 AM
#1
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which switch is which?
Still going around and round with my brake/turn signals!
Used the diagram in my Haynes manual to test the combination switch for continuity in the various positions, and it seemed entirely messed up. (Hey, it's marked LUCAS, so what would you expect?) I then put wire jumpers in the connector block in accordance to the Haynes diagram, and everything worked fine! Brake lights, turn signals, four ways, all A-OK
I called my local NAPA to see if they could get the switch, and they ordered it for me. The next day I went down to pick it up, and it was the wrong one, it was the old style behind the wheel type, so they ordered me a different one, no problem. This morning I picked it up and it looked fine, made in Tiawan, and no connectors for the variable speed wipers, but I can live without that.
Scooted home and screwed it in and guess what, -- nothing works
I then made two continuity charts and tested both switches side by side and guess what? The LUCAS switch and the Tiawan replacement wring out exactly the same way! So either they are both bad in exactly the way (unlikely) or the Haynes manual diagram is wrong. But if that's the case, why does everything work perfectly when I jumper it according to the chart?
Going crazy in NNY,
moT
Used the diagram in my Haynes manual to test the combination switch for continuity in the various positions, and it seemed entirely messed up. (Hey, it's marked LUCAS, so what would you expect?) I then put wire jumpers in the connector block in accordance to the Haynes diagram, and everything worked fine! Brake lights, turn signals, four ways, all A-OK
I called my local NAPA to see if they could get the switch, and they ordered it for me. The next day I went down to pick it up, and it was the wrong one, it was the old style behind the wheel type, so they ordered me a different one, no problem. This morning I picked it up and it looked fine, made in Tiawan, and no connectors for the variable speed wipers, but I can live without that.
Scooted home and screwed it in and guess what, -- nothing works
I then made two continuity charts and tested both switches side by side and guess what? The LUCAS switch and the Tiawan replacement wring out exactly the same way! So either they are both bad in exactly the way (unlikely) or the Haynes manual diagram is wrong. But if that's the case, why does everything work perfectly when I jumper it according to the chart?
Going crazy in NNY,
moT
11-17-2004, 04:59 PM
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Your electrical problem is most likely two separate problems.
Since you've gained access to the switch, you can now check for voltage
at two of the wires leading to the switch. Find the pink wire and use either
a test light or voltmeter to check for voltage at this wire. You should have
battery voltage all the time there. If no voltage, then the problem is either
the hazard flasher or fuse #13. However, it could also be the white fusible
link since this is where power comes from to power up fuse #13.
Now, turn the ignition on and check for voltage at the red/white wire leading
to the turn signal switch. If no voltage, then either the turn signal flasher is
bad or fuse #9 is bad. Fuse #9 also provides power to the ABS module which
could explain your ABS light problem.
At the turn signal switch, the pink wire supplies power for the hazard lights
function, while the red/white wire supplies power for the turn signal function.
Fuse #5 can affect the brake lights. The gray fusible link provides power to
fuse #5.
-Maurice
Since you've gained access to the switch, you can now check for voltage
at two of the wires leading to the switch. Find the pink wire and use either
a test light or voltmeter to check for voltage at this wire. You should have
battery voltage all the time there. If no voltage, then the problem is either
the hazard flasher or fuse #13. However, it could also be the white fusible
link since this is where power comes from to power up fuse #13.
Now, turn the ignition on and check for voltage at the red/white wire leading
to the turn signal switch. If no voltage, then either the turn signal flasher is
bad or fuse #9 is bad. Fuse #9 also provides power to the ABS module which
could explain your ABS light problem.
At the turn signal switch, the pink wire supplies power for the hazard lights
function, while the red/white wire supplies power for the turn signal function.
Fuse #5 can affect the brake lights. The gray fusible link provides power to
fuse #5.
-Maurice
11-17-2004, 05:42 PM
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So what you're saying is that it is a problem in the power supply to the switch? But when I put jumper wires in the directional switch connector block, everything works, so surely there is power being supplied to the switch, isn't there?
What I would like to see is a switch logic chart from a factory manual, although I have a hard time believing that the Haynes could be wrong, as the lights work perfectly when I jumper it in all three switch positions as shown.
From what I see, both of my switches must be wrong for my application. I see different part numbers listed for trucks with and without tilt wheels, could that be the problem?
Of course that would mean that the truck never had working lights with this switch, maybe that's why the previous owner parked it?
What I would like to see is a switch logic chart from a factory manual, although I have a hard time believing that the Haynes could be wrong, as the lights work perfectly when I jumper it in all three switch positions as shown.
From what I see, both of my switches must be wrong for my application. I see different part numbers listed for trucks with and without tilt wheels, could that be the problem?
Of course that would mean that the truck never had working lights with this switch, maybe that's why the previous owner parked it?
11-18-2004, 11:45 AM
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Here's something for you to think about...
This summer I had a customer bring his vehicle in with the same exact
symptoms. No hazard lights, no turn signals, and no brake lights.
As it turns out, the flasher for the hazard lights was bad, which naturally kept
the hazard flashers from working. But the reason why the brake lights and
turn signals weren't working was because the hazard light switch was in
the on position. That made everything else non-functional.
Double check to see if that's the case with your vehicle.
-Maurice
This summer I had a customer bring his vehicle in with the same exact
symptoms. No hazard lights, no turn signals, and no brake lights.
As it turns out, the flasher for the hazard lights was bad, which naturally kept
the hazard flashers from working. But the reason why the brake lights and
turn signals weren't working was because the hazard light switch was in
the on position. That made everything else non-functional.
Double check to see if that's the case with your vehicle.
-Maurice
11-18-2004, 11:00 PM
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Maurice,
Well, you were right about it being a problem with the power supply!
I went back at it this morning with a clear head and checked everything again. The circuit with the pink wire was live, but hey, it was carrying only about 5.5 volts! I suspected the fuseable link, but there was still only 5.5v on the battery side of that. Turns out there was a nearly broken connector right on the "plusative" terminal
After fixing that, 12v at the pink wire and everything works!
The good question is, why would it work with the jumper wires in, but not through the switch? I think maybe the switch actually has a circuit board inside it's guts, that is why it wouldn't wring out right for me on the bench, because the board wasn't powered up. It could be that the bad connection left the switch below it's threshold voltage, and so it just wouldn't do it's thing???
Anyway, thanks for the help
I'm off to face my NY State inspection in the morning and then I can finally start driving this BadBoy around
moT
Well, you were right about it being a problem with the power supply!
I went back at it this morning with a clear head and checked everything again. The circuit with the pink wire was live, but hey, it was carrying only about 5.5 volts! I suspected the fuseable link, but there was still only 5.5v on the battery side of that. Turns out there was a nearly broken connector right on the "plusative" terminal
After fixing that, 12v at the pink wire and everything works!
The good question is, why would it work with the jumper wires in, but not through the switch? I think maybe the switch actually has a circuit board inside it's guts, that is why it wouldn't wring out right for me on the bench, because the board wasn't powered up. It could be that the bad connection left the switch below it's threshold voltage, and so it just wouldn't do it's thing???
Anyway, thanks for the help
I'm off to face my NY State inspection in the morning and then I can finally start driving this BadBoy around
moT
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