Hello all:

I have this W350 1992 that has about 180K on it. The only mod I know of is from the second owner who "turned up the fuel pump all the way". To tell you the truth, I don't even know what that means. All I know is that I bought this truck to haul max. lumber load on a 24' dual tandem 10-ton gooseneck, and when I do so, I'm somewhat shortchanged in pulling power.

What are some basic mods I should consider to increase pulling power, knowing that I would like for this truck to haul 20K lbs several times a month for at least 100 miles at a time? Without having to get a new tranny and whatever motor parts every so often... In other words, I want this truck to haul as long as possible, I don't care about "brute power, sound, looks, etc."

Thanks, y'all!

 

ok, first, is there an exhaust temp gauge in the truck? if not, go to the tech section learn how to mess with the fuel screw and TURN IT DOWN! don't want to melt a piston then it wouldn't haul anything!

on to power... a good turbo or turbo housing is gonna be more important to you than the typical play truck you'll need enough air to keep the fuel you add cool. overall the question is how much pulling power do you want and what do you want to spend?

as for the tranny is it a 5-speed or an auto? if it's a 5-speed with the weights you are pulling the 3200 spring will be a great start for you! it will help to bridge than nasty gap between 2nd and 3rd. a little more info on your truck and your overall goals and we'll get you fixed right up!

 

I agree. You have come to the right spot. Get your guages installed if you havent already.
the first mod for your case is the installation of that 3200 gov spring. How much does your truck puke the black smoke? lol
You get to do more fine tuning then most on your modifications then most do to your requirements.
Also, being a 92, your going to be hunting for a much better turbo. My suggestion here is at the very least, an HX-35, or WH1C from a second gen with a 14cm exhaust housing. Stock on the second gens is a 12cm exhaust housing. You'll spool up a lot faster then your current 21cm housing.
For you, dont play with the "smoke screw" it'll just add heat. and u might turn the star wheel down maybe a turn or 2.
Be sure to check the sticky, there is tons of great info up there! Welcome to DTR!

 

What gearing? 4.10s are best for hauling heavy. Also, run it in 4th (Getrag) or keep it out of OD if auto when pulling a big load. I put a Gear Vendors overdrive behind mine so I can tow heavy in 4th over to easily maintain highway speed without heat issues.

 

Thanks, I'm going to have to learn some more, obviously...
Here are some answers to your questions, and some additional questions I have:
Main thing: This is not a play truck, it's to pull about 20,000 lbs of trailer load (load + weight of the trailer).
It is an auto tranny with the OD button on the low part of the dash.
It does not have an exhaust temp gauge: I will get one as it is recommended (although I do not know why - bear with me, I'm mechanically "slow").
The truck does not smoke much: it belches a small cloud of dark gray/black when I start it cold, but that's about it.
Is the sticky the sticker under the hood with the info about the truck? In my case, you can't read it any more, it's all dark...
I should get another turbo with a different exhaust housing: would you get that from a used parts/junk yard, or get a new one?
You mentioned a Gears Vendor O/D: I'll investigate that. In my total ignorance, I had thought of a torque converter: bad idea or good idea?
What and where is the star wheel? What happens if I turn it down, as you suggest?
Thanks for your patience with the true green here!

 

Torque Convertor- VERY GOOD idea. The stock one is horrible when towing that kind of weight. A good one will run you $300-800, depending on what exactly you want. Valve body modifications are also a good idea to get the most from your convertor.

Exhaust temp gauge (Pyrometer). WHY you want one is simple- to keep an eye on the temp of the exhaust exiting your engine. Put it in the manifold, as you plan to up the power. Another reason for it is the turbo is designed and fitted with x and y components for a stock 160hp engine. Jumping to 240 or 300 hp will make more heat, and you want to be able to back out of it if needed. If you wait for the water to get hot, it could be too late.

I've never noticed much difference in adjusting the "smoke screw." You will find out about it in the sticky. I flow enough fuel that I get good fuelling right off the line anyway.

Get your injectors pop tested and recalibrated. The cleaning CAN pay for itself in fuel savings alone, not to mention better spraying means lower temps. If the truck has been worked all its life, they may be in good shape.

Set the timing with a dial indiactor. I'd go to about 1.5-1.6mm. Your setting will also depend on what pressure the injectors get set to. When I got mine redone, the shop set them about 150psi higher than stock, so I advanced my timing about another .1mm to 1.65.

If your turbo is in good shape, get a HTT Stage 3 or 4 impellar housing (bigger wheel to pull in more fresh, cool air), and no smaller than a 16 cm exhaust housing. If you have a CPL 1579 engine, you will have a 18cm exhaust housing, and may not need the 16.

4" exhaust, free flowing air filter (think BHAF, reuseable oiled, etc).

Trans temp, boost gauge (40psi minimum), and pyrometer are a necessity. Tach and fuel pressure (0-16psi stock; 0-30psi if piston lift pump) are a good idea. I have towed a gross combined weight of 24K before, and had no issues with EGT or anything else. This was also at 5-7K ft elevation.

Happy BOMBing.

Daniel

 

Ok here is some info.

The EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) gauges measures the exhaust as it leaves the engine. The reason to get one is with a turned up pump, you push more fuel through thus creating more heat. I pulled a 10,000 lb trailer to New Orleans. I hit 1100* with a turned up pump. The pistons are made of aluminum, which has a melting point just past 1200*. Keeping it at or above 1200*, you are playing with a bomb.

The sticky is at the top of the forum under the 1st gen section
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=102027
Here you go. It says "How to..." aka the Sticky.

A new turbo will help with spool up but since you have the auto, it only bites you once. The turbo works by the heat of the exhaust. With a auto, you have a constant load on the engine, which creates heat to turn the turbo. If you had a 5spd, every time you hit the clutch, there is no load on the engine, thus not much heat, which then lets the turbo spin down, which means as soon as you let the clutch go, it has to build the heat back up. Comprendae?

You might do some good in getting a good torque converter. The 1st Gen's are known to be very sloppy, which leads to high engine heat and and possibly melted pistons as the engine works harder. See my first paragraph.

Welcome to this addicting site!

Jon

 

Dang it dpuckett, I thought I had it before anyone else!

 

Also, check out these guys. They have articles on driving high performance Cummins big rigs, but the DRIVING HABITS columns apply to our minature pickup engines and drivetrians as well. Basically, ease into and out of it, dont use all your power climbing hills, and keep an eye on temps and pressures.

One more thing, pick a goal for HP and performance and work toward it. It wil cost less in the long run and will serve you better. I'd recommend 270-300hp and 700-800torque for your use. May not set any records, but 300+ HP will get into some serious money. I think 270 is doable with stock or 190 injectors.

DP

 

dpuckett:

I like the idea of setting a goal, such as 270 hp and 700 lbs and working towards it:
So, besides getting the various gauges, for which I understand the monitoring value, I should investigate:
* impeller and exhaust housings, or replace the turbo altogether with a 2nd gen. turbo
* 4-inch exhaust and air filter
* torque converter

Now, an idea - even ballpark with parking lot - of the cost of installing this good stuff; you already have indicated $300 to $800 for a torque converter, I have checked some prices for Isspro gauges. What would the rest fetch in your opinion?

Thanks for all the help!

 

190 injectors are around $400US from PDR. I know they are the ORIGINAL 190 injectors; beware of knock-offs. INSTALL Time- <1.5hrs

If your turbo is good (no slack side-to-side, or in-and-out, spins freely), an upgraded housing and wheel is your most cost effective route. (~250-300, depending on what you get). Next in line is City Diesel's Dodgezilla and PDR's modified HX35 ($700 with shipping, maybe a hair more). Install- <1hr

4" exhaust can be had for <$300; <$150 if you do it yourself. It isnt that hard, just takes some elbows and patience. Be warned, it is NOT a straight shot from the tranny bracket to the tailpipe. Install- 2-6 hrs

Geno's has good prices on gauges, as does Diesel Manor. I cant speak for DM (never dealt with them), but Geno's has good service and support after the sale. Check specials at both places. Gauge install- 1-2hrs

Air filter- I'd recommend a BHAF, and a custom mount (again, if you can do it yourself, very cheap) over a K&N. Some have had good luck with K&N, some havent.

The listed install times are estimates for what *I* have done stuff in, not your average shop's All-Data-Slowpoke-Bubba-technician estimates. (It lists VE pump R&R as 3hrs or something ridiculous like that).

DP

 

The problem with K&N's is people get **** about it, clean 'em too much, over-oil, etc. Then they don't work very well. BHAF's a good sure bet. Throw it in and fuggedaboudit.

 

to answer your question about the sticky (didn't see it if someone has) it is the top thread in this forum. it has all sorts of technical write ups on just about anything you'd want to do with your truck including the most common things that go wrong and how to fix them! it is very helpful to say the least. i'd do things in this order...
1. gauges to see where you are at with your temps tranny temp and EGT being the most important
3. aux tranny cooler if needed
4. BHAF (big honkin air filter) look in the sticky you can get them cheapest at www.fleetfilter.com
5. turbo, IMO the 2nd hx35 will not be worth it on your truck. you only need to spool one time with the auto and will be hauling heavy so the 12cm would be too restrictive. you need lots of flow to keep temps down so i would even consider an hx-40 with a true 4inch outlet, they get a bad wrap about snapping the shaft but again with the auto and only one spool as long as you don't let off the throttle under full load you'll be fine, oh and you can get a brand new one for a very reasonable price!
6. if you go with the 40 you would definately need a 4inch exhaust

 

Really appreciate the info. there! Do you mind explaining the "spool only once with the auto"?
Thanks!

 

Hi Dpuckett:
You suggest an upgrade housing and wheel: is there something specific I should look for? wheel dia., housing size or else. How would you determine what is needed?
Thanks for all the info, I really appreciate it!