Suddenly won't start or even turn over
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: AUSTIN, TEXAS !
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Suddenly won't start or even turn over
So I was headed to work yesterday and all of a sudden the speedometer gauge went to zero, while the fuel gauge went to exactly half full from 1/4 full. The temp gauge is dead, too.
Pulled up and turned it off, and it won't turn over, at all, period. Grid heater "wait" and other ignition lights don't come on like usual. Turn signals are out.
Radio won't turn on, either.
Headlights and dome light work normally, dimmer works.
Checked the fuses, those are all OK. Checked battery connections and those were getting funky, so I bought a brand new battery and marine terminals. Hooked everything back up and...it won't turn over, at all. No click, no grid heater lights, nothing. Same other electrical problems as before are present.
Also, I have my fuel shut off solenoid and KSB wired up separately from the wiring loom, on separate circuits, with dash switches.
What would cause this problem all of a sudden ?
TIA.
Pulled up and turned it off, and it won't turn over, at all, period. Grid heater "wait" and other ignition lights don't come on like usual. Turn signals are out.
Radio won't turn on, either.
Headlights and dome light work normally, dimmer works.
Checked the fuses, those are all OK. Checked battery connections and those were getting funky, so I bought a brand new battery and marine terminals. Hooked everything back up and...it won't turn over, at all. No click, no grid heater lights, nothing. Same other electrical problems as before are present.
Also, I have my fuel shut off solenoid and KSB wired up separately from the wiring loom, on separate circuits, with dash switches.
What would cause this problem all of a sudden ?
TIA.
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SW Ontario, Canada
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did you check the ground cable where it bolts to the block?
Also check that cable for holes where water could have got in and rotted the conductors or for a place where the wire just cracked.
Sounds like a grounding issue to me.
JP.
Also check that cable for holes where water could have got in and rotted the conductors or for a place where the wire just cracked.
Sounds like a grounding issue to me.
JP.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: AUSTIN, TEXAS !
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll look at that in the light this afternoon, thanks. Is there an ignition switch or fuse of any kind on these, or does turning the key simply complete a circuit to the starter ?
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#6
Registered User
Fusible links are most likely.
It could also be the bulk-head connector or the key-switch.
It could also be the bulk-head connector or the key-switch.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: AUSTIN, TEXAS !
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I took some pics of the rats nest of wires under the (disconnected) alarm speaker, will upload in a bit.
Ground wire to battery is fine.
In the meantime, this is sitting at an apartment complex where it could be towed. Is there a way to operate the starter by jumping a circuit, so I can at least get it home ? Get an alligator clip wire, attach one end to the smaller lead on the starter and touch the other to the + terminal on the battery ? Will that work on these ?
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: AUSTIN, TEXAS !
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh, I have the solenoid on it's own circuit with a switch on the dash. Bypassed that rat's nest MOPAR garbage wiring loom with the solenoid...and the KSB...ages ago.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was able to get mine to fire by touching a heavy gauge wire from the brown wire on the female side of the weatherproof connector by the battery, to the positive terminal of the battery, with the key in the run position. That's how I eliminated the starter and the ignition switch from the problem.
#11
Registered User
Taped alongside the big HOT cable that goes to the starter is a smaller wire, BROWN I think.
This wire goes into a two-wire plug with maybe a PINK wire.
Un-plug this plug.
That PINK wire is always HOT; the BROWN wire triggers the solenoid on the starter.
Make a U-shaped jumper-wire, preferably out of a short length of solid-core house-wire, such as 12-2 or 14-2.
Ascertain that the transmission is not engaged; set the park-brake.
With power ON to the fuel-solenoid, if it is still so equipped, jump power between the PINK and BROWN wire and the engine should crank and start.
This wire goes into a two-wire plug with maybe a PINK wire.
Un-plug this plug.
That PINK wire is always HOT; the BROWN wire triggers the solenoid on the starter.
Make a U-shaped jumper-wire, preferably out of a short length of solid-core house-wire, such as 12-2 or 14-2.
Ascertain that the transmission is not engaged; set the park-brake.
With power ON to the fuel-solenoid, if it is still so equipped, jump power between the PINK and BROWN wire and the engine should crank and start.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: AUSTIN, TEXAS !
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just clamped a 10 gauge wire with alligator clips to the smaller post on top of the starter, and touched the other end to the + battery terminal. Started instantly.
I'm tempted to just wire up a switch for the starter on the dash, like a tractor...it's not just the ignition though, the turn signals, gauges, backup lights, and radio are out. Headlights and brakelights work at least, so I was able to get it home...
I wonder, is there a schematic showing where these various things are wired through ? That way I could find what exactly failed.
There are several plastic boxes mounted to the side of the compartment near the hood hinge...a whole rats nest of wires, actually. Disconnected alarm system, all kinds of garbage. Some day I'm gonna haul the motor out of here and stick it in the oldest service vehicle I can find...
I'm tempted to just wire up a switch for the starter on the dash, like a tractor...it's not just the ignition though, the turn signals, gauges, backup lights, and radio are out. Headlights and brakelights work at least, so I was able to get it home...
I wonder, is there a schematic showing where these various things are wired through ? That way I could find what exactly failed.
There are several plastic boxes mounted to the side of the compartment near the hood hinge...a whole rats nest of wires, actually. Disconnected alarm system, all kinds of garbage. Some day I'm gonna haul the motor out of here and stick it in the oldest service vehicle I can find...
#14
Sounds like your fuseable link wire on the driverside fender is blown. its made to go out if the voltage spike.s mine did the same thing get a test light and just poke each one till you find it .then just find the burnt section and replace it
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: AUSTIN, TEXAS !
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I spliced in some wire where a section of fusible link was obviously blown, but still no ignition, turn signals, radio or gauges. It's not the Key switch...when I turn that ON I can roll the window, turning it to OFF cuts power to that.
So I guess it's time to look for the test light and go about rooting through the rats nest of wires on this heap. I already bypassed several things in the crummy wiring harness with my own wiring, so I guess this was coming sooner or later. From what I've been reading on here, it happens to everyone sooner or later. God, I hate cheap old Dodge wiring.
Anyone know what each of the fusible links coming off the black rubber thing go to ? So, yeah: Gauges, speedo, radio, turn signals, backup light and ignition are out. Headlights (both bright and normal), brake lights, interior lights/ dimmer, engine bay light and windows are still on.
So I guess it's time to look for the test light and go about rooting through the rats nest of wires on this heap. I already bypassed several things in the crummy wiring harness with my own wiring, so I guess this was coming sooner or later. From what I've been reading on here, it happens to everyone sooner or later. God, I hate cheap old Dodge wiring.
Anyone know what each of the fusible links coming off the black rubber thing go to ? So, yeah: Gauges, speedo, radio, turn signals, backup light and ignition are out. Headlights (both bright and normal), brake lights, interior lights/ dimmer, engine bay light and windows are still on.