bnold

Id be willing to bet that even though you are getting fuel at the injector by bleeding it that either the pump is not putting out enough pressure to pop the injectors off or the injectors are worn and bleeding down...

maxx250

You may be right,I was just trying to go as long as possible without actually saying the pump word.Is there anything I can do to eliminate the pump from the equation?

RuralCruiser007

Maybe you should pull the front cover and check the basic timing.

With the headaches you are having I think you are going to have to go back to basics and check the timing. From the crank to the cam the cam to the pump.

If it still looks ok I would go even further and then start pulling the gears off of the pump.

I dont know what else to check, but it sure sounds like the pump timing is off. Maybe the KDP has gone for a trip and has jambed the timing gears.

Free89W350

I know you said that you have fuel and that it tried to start on ether. I had a pinhole in the fuel line from the tank to the pump and mine still started with a little pressure on the pedal. Other than checking the timing and possibly pulling the top of the pump off (just to make sure that there ain't nothing bad lying in there), I would check any and all electrical connections under the hood including the fusible links. I don't know if there will be anything there but it seems like your at the point where you checked everything else. Sometimes what is obvious for someone else to check gets overlooked by the person who is so frustrated that they can't focus. I know because I have racked my brain for days to find a problem and it took someone new to walk up and look at something small that I had overlooked many times. It seems like you checked all the majors so maybe its time to start from scratch with the little things.

Good luck and I hope that you find and fix the problem

BearKiller

Where are you spraying the ether ??

What brand is it and what does it say on the can ??

If you haven't already tried this, take the intake/filter hose loose from the front side of the turbo, making sure it is out of the way of getting sucked into the spinning blades.

Since it isn't firing anyway, you are not gonna blow it up with a little ether.

While someone is cranking the engine, lay the ether straight into the intake-opening of the turbo, fog it in there, don't be stingy, but don't get carried away either.

If there is any life at all in it, it will start hitting on the ether and run for a few seconds.

This is true, even if the injection-pump has quit for good; because, you are putting the ether into the air intake stream and it enters the cylinders through the valves, with the air, completely independent of whatever condition the injectors and IP are in.

If the engine has an intercooler, remove the intake boot nearest the intake of the engine and spray the ether in there, instead of removing the air-filter tube.

Ether sprayed through an air-filter has little, if any, effect, as it evaporates before it can get where it needs to be.

If she don't fire on ether, my next guess is little melted holes in the pistons.

Jim Lane

First thing is make sure the battery is HOT, you need to crank the engine fast enough then instead of using Ether use some WD-40.

Don't spray it into the turbo but after it, if you have a boost gauge hooked up then disconnect the line and spray it in there.

I have had more than a few cans of Starting Fluid that you could put out a fire with.

Use a jumper wire and connect the fuel solenoid directly to the battery to rule out the key switch.

ofcmarc

Didn't WD-40 get reformulated so that it isn't flamable anymore? Seems I heard that somewhere.

BearKiller

Same here.

Kinda like the lock de-icer that's main ingredient is water.



I don't know about anywhere else, but the WD-40 I am able to get, around here, will probably put out a flame.

I used to swear by the old good WD-40 as being superior as a starting fluid, but no more.

Jim Lane

WD-40 the only change they made is to change the propellant from LPG (propane) to Co2 (carbon dioxide).

This way it would not be flammable if you were to spray it into a flame like you would hair spray but the main ingredient is still Stoddard Solvent and Mineral Oil so it would be like carrying some compressed Diesel Fuel in a convenient can.

When I worked for the county we used to use Stoddard Solvent mixed with Diesel Fuel to wash parts in, unlike gasoline it would not evaporate from the wash tank.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD40

MSDS
http://www.wd40.com/Brands/pdfs/msds...aerosol.us.pdf

The only concern I would have would be with excessive prolonged use you might leave enough of a film in the intake that it would collect any dirt or dust that might get past the air filter but that would outweigh the damage you could do by using Ether.

Shouldn't they change the name to WD-41?

wannadiesel

To rule out a leaky line, try to run it off a hose in a bucket of fuel.

maxx250

Thanks for all the input guys Im taking it all in and getting ready to go mess with it right now

Caver Dave

In an attempt help, I thought it would be to describe ALL things tried up to now & answer all the questions raised...

- Starting fluid is Pyroil brand, shot into the flex PRE-turbo... didn't think it mattered where it was introduced
- Fuel solenoid has NO plunger, so that's not an issue
- Fuel screw is back to approx. where it was
- Fuel filter is now brand new
- Fuel output:
- Bleeder port post-filter = not the flow I'd have expected... seemed to "suck" back in once the cranking stopped
- Injector lines = flowing, but not spraying all over as I recall a buds 2nd Gen doing
- Timing... I looked at the marks and they were NOT even... pump mark is approx. 1/16"-1/8" higher

Hopefully this will focus the collective juices! Now for MY additional questions!

1) BK mentioned a screen in the inlet side of the LP. Where? It has to be either *IN* the elbow or held in place by the elbow... correct?

2) Are there published flow rates for the LPs? My old 7.3L had a minimum pressure & flow... anything less wouldn't sustain run. Can this be check via the bleeder screw in the banjo?


I'm planning to head over tomorrow evening with a fresh battery, a fuel can & a boat primer pump w/ 3/8" ID hose... figure we can split the fuel line between the intake banjo(post filter) and the IP (at the factory? union), connect/clamp the hose, and squeeze the primer bulb until we get the gravity feed going. Hopefully, this will isolate the issues. IF it should fire, this confirms the issues are with the suction line, LP, or filter... correct?

Thanks again guys!

12valve@heart

Like Jim Lane and BearKiller said, if it won't start on ether, you have problems bigger than the fuel system. If it WILL start on ether (or WD40), then the problem is most likely in the fuel system. I'd suggest narrowing down the search area by trying to get it running off ether. Then you know where to look. By the way, a HOT battery is essential at this stage. Jumpers may not be enough. Charge it over night if you can.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Caver Dave

It does fire on the ether for a second or 2, but cuts back off. We did NOT mist it in for prolonged runs though...

I'll throw my POJunk charger in back... will at least get his battery back up to snuff.

ofcmarc

If it will fire on ether (You have compression), you may want to check base timing on the IP. (fuel and ignition need to work together) Maybe you broke the woodruff key somehow and goofed the timing.