Nuttymopar

My steering wheel lock to lock is messed up. From wheels straight, it takes 2.0 turns to the left before lock position. But only 1.75 turns to the right to lock position. I had a front end alignment and they did try to straighten that out but it is worse now. But the truck goes straight down the road so much better. It is now 2.5 turns to the left and only about 1.25 or so to the right. Steering wheel is sitting straight. It is like the gears in the steering box is off or something. How can I fix this to give me back my normal steering left to right.

Info given: I do have a 4" lift kit installed. It does have the adjustable drag link but they said when trying to adjust it that way, the turnbuckle was hitting the adjustment lock so they couldn't adjust it that way. I do have a Borgeson shaft which helps in getting steering wheel straight.

Should I cut down some of the adjustment lock on the drag link so I have more play to adjust to the LEFT (tighten or shorten) which I would assume would allow me to turn more to the RIGHT. Can I just turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and find the middle. Then take off the Tie rod ends and adjust them so the wheels go straight again (left OUT 7 turns, right IN 7 turns) and then adjust steering wheel via the borgeson shaft?

Drives me up a wall as my tires now hit my springs on the left during a sharp turn and I now run over my grass in the driveway when I pull in to the right. I have lost a lot of play. BUT, the truck is riding much better and going straight down the road for once.

Thanks in advance.

apache

Does the truck physically turn as sharp both ways? I cant remember on my dually, but I think the box was stopping before it actually hit the stops on the front end. Have someone turn the wheel full either way and check at the front knuckles for full turn. You front end should move freely and fully ,left and right until the stoppers hit. When it was lifted the distance from the box to the pitman arm was made longer, hence the adjustable drag link, It sounds like its not adjusted correctly. As I mentioned I bet the box is maxing out way before the axle stops hit. Check it out let us know.

Nuttymopar

True, I haven't looked to see if they are hitting the stops or not but it does NOT turn sharp both ways. Use to just fine before 4" lift kit went on. I know that will change things. I plan on jacking up tonight, pulling tires off (315x70x16) and seeing if they hit or not. I know my drivers side tire hits the springs but not sure if it is at FULL turn or not because of this. Pass side doesn't turn nearly as much as drivers side does.

Thanks.

uncleroty

It was the alignment that did it. There is no adjustment for the steering wheel, camber/castor etc on our trucks. It is impossible to get it straightened out and have the wheel straight as well, once it's been wacked significantly out of alignment. I'm sure the lift had an effect as well.

Unfortunately, it's something you and I will have to live with in our trucks. (same thing happened to me.), unless of course you can afford to put in new components.

Anyways, good luck with your rig.

Flake

Does the adjustable draglink have a drop in it or is it almost straight? Either way if you set your tires straight ahead then remove the draglink from either the pitman arm or the steering arm. Then get in the truck and turn the wheel lock to lock and find the middle of the travel,(the steering wheel may or may not point straight ahead). With the wheel in the middle have someone hold it there then adjust your draglink to fit between the pitman arm and steering arm. If the steering wheel is off you may be able to take the Borg. off of the steering box and get the splines to line up or you may have to pull the steering wheel and center it that way.----Dave.

Nuttymopar

Drag link does have a drop in it. I think that is what spring shop tried (tires straight, drag link adjust) but the adjustment wasn't enough on the drag link to straighten everything out. I can see where the adjustment is right at the threads of the adjusting nug or coupler. I plan to do that tonight but while the drag link is off i plan on cutting off about 1/4" of the locknut adjuster on both ends and that should give me enough room to tighten it up some more. Thanks.

Alec

When the wheels are pointing straight ahead, the steering sector should be roughly centered (take the pitman arm or drag link off, do the lock to lock, and count back halfway), and the pitman arm should be paralell with the steering arm on the top of the knuckle. I would check these settings, and then try to adjust the length of the drag link appropriately, with weight on the axle.

You also might need a dropped pitman arm, because the geometry has slightly excessive "bump-steer" to begin with.

Good luck with it.

spunbearing

I had that happen on a 87 dodge I used to own. It was the pitman arm on the steering gear box.there is usually an alignment mark on it to align the arm on the shaft before putting the nut on.

apache

Where did the drop arm come from? It sounds like its to short from what your saying. Do not screw it apart so far that the ends are only in the tube as much as the collars. Hard cornering or hitting something might make it fold up. I puy 4" lift front springs on my 93 350 and had problems as well. The set up is similar to chevys as far as frame breakage at the box. I actually cut my drag link and machined a collar and welded it back together to make everything straight. I know thats stupid some will say. I would call the supplier of the drag ling if its to short. I have a feeling I know who supplied it and it dosent surprise me its wrong and unsafe and nobody will care cause they now have your $$$$. As mentioned by an other, set your wheels straight, center the steering wheel and asjust the drag link to fit. If it wont work let me know. Also I dont belive you can remove your arm on the box and move it. The splines will not allow it to be reset.

DesertRat93

Nuttymopar,
Just a suggetion, but if you want it to steer better than stock, throw the stock steering setup away.
With your 4" lift so you can do crossover steering. No more bumpsteer, way tighter turning radius, and you can adjust for steering wheel center. While your at it, you should change the stock steering shaft joint for one of quality with a u-joint type design.

uncleroty

Mine was adjusted by disconnecting the steering wheel, pulling it out, and re attaching it in a different position. This allowed it to point straight, and have the steering wheel be straight as well. Very limited adjustment options with this really. That's why I'm stuck with the slightly reduced turning radius on one side. My alignment was really out of whack though (3/4 inch). If yours wasn't that bad, you shouldn't have lost so much turning radius.

I'm not sure if this is what your alignment guy did or not, but if they did, you may be able to reverse this, and get your extra turns back. You'll just have to drive with your steering wheel less than straight.

Hope this helps in some way.

Nuttymopar

We are good to go. The other night I did as Alec described. I took the wheels off and tested lock to lock. Left turn hit the axle stop. Right turn missing by 1.5" to the stop. I dropped the drag link from shaft. Turned wheels to straight and made sure it was straight across the knuckle. Then counted steering wheel lock to lock and found center (placed steering wheel upside down). Then adjusted drag link to what I needed. I did adjust the lock collar some so the bolts are centered in the collar. Then adjusted my borgeson shaft to straighten out my steering wheel. I now have about 1.75 turns lock to lock both ways. The drag link is a dropped one from what lift kit company says but it does some what go up before going down to the knuckle. Not by much but it is better then what the stock one did. So thanks for all the replies and so glad I have tight corners back again.