Steel Brake Line tubing replacement
#1
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Steel Brake Line tubing replacement
In my 93, I need to change out the master cylinder, as it's leaking.
I also need to change out the brake system steel tubing that goes from the rear anitlock proportion valve to another fluid block lower down on the frame, as it's rusted where it goes to the second block.
Can I run a straight tube, or does that circular tubing spiral have to be created to have it function properly. I guess it's some type of anti vibration setup, but was wondering if it's required to be that way, or if someone was creative during a previous repair.
Here's the coiled tube for the abs rear line
![](http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i333/9woofmaster/93%20Dodge%20w250/DSC05585.jpg)
Here is the secondary block where the tube is rotted and needs to be replaced.
![](http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i333/9woofmaster/93%20Dodge%20w250/DSC05588.jpg)
I'll assume that the coil setup must be retained, until I hear otherwords from you guys who know more about this truck than I ever will...![Embarrassment](https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif)
TIA
I also need to change out the brake system steel tubing that goes from the rear anitlock proportion valve to another fluid block lower down on the frame, as it's rusted where it goes to the second block.
Can I run a straight tube, or does that circular tubing spiral have to be created to have it function properly. I guess it's some type of anti vibration setup, but was wondering if it's required to be that way, or if someone was creative during a previous repair.
Here's the coiled tube for the abs rear line
![](http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i333/9woofmaster/93%20Dodge%20w250/DSC05585.jpg)
Here is the secondary block where the tube is rotted and needs to be replaced.
![](http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i333/9woofmaster/93%20Dodge%20w250/DSC05588.jpg)
I'll assume that the coil setup must be retained, until I hear otherwords from you guys who know more about this truck than I ever will...
![Embarrassment](https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif)
TIA
#2
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The coils formed there are to act as a flexible expansion/contraction joint to keep the lines from being rigid between the cab and frame. The cab is mounted in rubber and has movement in relationship to the frame.. A rigid line would eventually work harden and crack. The coils also dissipate some heat carried upward from the brakes.
#4
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So, I kept it.
Had to remove the fitting end and replace it with the original, due to it's larger sized thread on one end that goes to the Prop Valve.
Turned out pretty good, for $7.00 in materials....for the new tubing that is.
New (rebuilt) master cyl was $25
Next week is the rear of the truck. Can't wait to see what I find back there.
![](http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i333/9woofmaster/93%20Dodge%20w250/DSC05624.jpg)
Had to remove the fitting end and replace it with the original, due to it's larger sized thread on one end that goes to the Prop Valve.
Turned out pretty good, for $7.00 in materials....for the new tubing that is.
New (rebuilt) master cyl was $25
Next week is the rear of the truck. Can't wait to see what I find back there.
![](http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i333/9woofmaster/93%20Dodge%20w250/DSC05624.jpg)
![](http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i333/9woofmaster/93%20Dodge%20w250/DSC05625.jpg)
#5
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Check your crossmember that supports the front of your fuel tank while you are under there. Also the adjoining frame section where it meets the same crossmember and brace. It looks like you have a fair amount of corrosion going on. I junked a 92 Dodge Cummins plow truck for that exact reason back about a year and a half ago. Coincidentally the same brake lines that you just replaced were also just replaced along with the master cylinder. Hope yours is in better shape!
#6
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Check your crossmember that supports the front of your fuel tank while you are under there. Also the adjoining frame section where it meets the same crossmember and brace. It looks like you have a fair amount of corrosion going on. I junked a 92 Dodge Cummins plow truck for that exact reason back about a year and a half ago. Coincidentally the same brake lines that you just replaced were also just replaced along with the master cylinder. Hope yours is in better shape!
Right now, the truck's frame is still solid.
I've done just about everything that I can do to make it so I don't kill myself, or anyone else with brake failures. All the braking system has been replaced except for the rear wheel cylinders.
That's next week.
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