Starting my Getrag swap
#16
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Hey sounds good 1stgen545. Now to answer questions...
Im swapping tailhousing cause the one it came with, the mounting ears were broke off, and being case, its hard to weld.
I got the Getrag with 130k for $600 is why its goin in. When I stumble across a good deal on a 4500, Ill do it then. Id much rather do the NV4500, but like I said, cost was a big issue, and this swap is already more than Id planned, what with hydraulics, new clutch, etc. etc.
Im swapping tailhousing cause the one it came with, the mounting ears were broke off, and being case, its hard to weld.
I got the Getrag with 130k for $600 is why its goin in. When I stumble across a good deal on a 4500, Ill do it then. Id much rather do the NV4500, but like I said, cost was a big issue, and this swap is already more than Id planned, what with hydraulics, new clutch, etc. etc.
#17
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Well, 2 months of itching and waiting, and I finally got it underway. Interior is gutted right now-so I can rewire the mess of a dash I have while I can. The drivetrain removal starts tomorrow a.m. BTW, for the shifter hole-Bearkiller was your measurement from the door kick panel or the one by the vent? And was it with door panel or trim on or off? I guess what Im asking is the hole centered on the hump...Thanks again.
#18
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All plastic is out of the way.
The kick-panel is adjacent to the park-brake pedal.
The hole is off-set to the left side of the hump.
Just measure straight from the kick-panel and straight from the back wall of the cab.
Where these two measurements intersect will be your center-point.
Set your compass at half the hole diameter, place the point of the compass at the center-point and draw a circle.
Double check all this and don't boil-over if I made a bad measurement.
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I know the things you have to do when $$$ is invalved. I just had to give you a hard time. Glad to see you are getting to this point. I want t see it when you are done. How's the down pipe going. Are you doing it like the one I did on DennyT's truck? We just put a 4500 In his. Well good luck I'll check back later.
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If you get a new tailhousing, you will have to remeasure the depth of the housing and shims to make sure you keep your correct bearing preload (being used, it is zero). Failure to do so can result in catastrophic failure at the most in opportune time. I can help you out via PM, email, phone, etc. It is too hot this time of year for me to go any farther south.
Daniel
Daniel
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If you get a new tailhousing, you will have to remeasure the depth of the housing and shims to make sure you keep your correct bearing preload (being used, it is zero). Failure to do so can result in catastrophic failure at the most in opportune time. I can help you out via PM, email, phone, etc. It is too hot this time of year for me to go any farther south.
Daniel
Daniel
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I know the things you have to do when $$$ is invalved. I just had to give you a hard time. Glad to see you are getting to this point. I want t see it when you are done. How's the down pipe going. Are you doing it like the one I did on DennyT's truck? We just put a 4500 In his. Well good luck I'll check back later.
#24
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The next truck I get will be exactly what I want. I went into this as a $600 swap. With better clutch, the hydraulic set, rebuild kit, odds and ends here and there, Im now pushing close to $2k for this swap. Just a warning to anyone whos hunting a truck-make sure ya get exactly what youre looking for...or youll regret it later.
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