is this a small, medium, or large problem?
01-28-2006, 05:54 PM
#2
Registered User
Na, get a can of the spray stop leak stuff. That will do it! 
You sir, have a leak in a freeze plug. Measure the ID very carefully and head to a Cumins shop (with your engine S/N) and they should fix you right up. Call first for a stock check.
You sir, have a leak in a freeze plug. Measure the ID very carefully and head to a Cumins shop (with your engine S/N) and they should fix you right up. Call first for a stock check.
01-28-2006, 06:07 PM
#4
Registered User
It is terminal...................better give me the truck QUICK 
.
Freeze seals are not hard to replace if you have easy access. I usually use a punch and a small hammer to drive the bottom of the freeze seal in allowing the top to rotate out. Then grab it with a pair of Vise grips and pull. Clean the hole out and inspect for excessive rust , pits and other forms of degradation. Apply a generous portion of Permatex to the NEW seal prior to installation and you should have many years of trouble free driving. Atleast as far as that one is concerned. My personal preference is brass freeze seals bot the mild steel ones work too. Don't forget the anti freeze 
.Freeze seals are not hard to replace if you have easy access. I usually use a punch and a small hammer to drive the bottom of the freeze seal in allowing the top to rotate out. Then grab it with a pair of Vise grips and pull. Clean the hole out and inspect for excessive rust , pits and other forms of degradation. Apply a generous portion of Permatex to the NEW seal prior to installation and you should have many years of trouble free driving. Atleast as far as that one is concerned.
My personal preference is brass freeze seals bot the mild steel ones work too. Don't forget the anti freeze
Maybe he was typing while you were.
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01-28-2006, 09:55 PM
#8
Registered User
You also have the option of replacing with an expandable rubber freeze-plug to get you out of the woods until you can get to a Cummins shop.
In fact, the block-heater is no more than an expandable plug with a heating element.
In fact, the block-heater is no more than an expandable plug with a heating element.
01-29-2006, 01:55 AM
#9
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They also call the expandable rubber ones "Boiler Plugs"...they hold-up just fine and are easy as all 'get-out' to install. Just place it in the hole and tighten the nut in the center.
Vinny
Vinny
01-29-2006, 10:25 AM
#10
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Like boatnik said, get a small punch and hit on the lower side of the frost plug, and the top will pop out enough to get vise grips on it. if you notice the whole plug moving, then you need a smaller more concentrated punch, your objective is to rotate the plug only. Install is about as easy, get a socket...i prefer a short one that is smaller than the plug. If your not sure get a socket that will come close to fitting the one in the block, because if you dont have enough clearance, once the plug seats in the block....you wont get your socket back out.
BTW, dont hammer like hell on them, because its easy to punch through one.
BTW, dont hammer like hell on them, because its easy to punch through one.
01-30-2006, 04:08 AM
#13
Administrator
You mean you are not supposed to just hammer them into the core like the gas station mechanics do?
Can’t tell you how many soft plugs I have retrieved from engine blocks after the local high school/ mechanic had installed them.
Jim
Can’t tell you how many soft plugs I have retrieved from engine blocks after the local high school/ mechanic had installed them.
Jim
08-30-2006, 05:41 AM
#15
Administrator
I have punched some of them through into the water jacket and then had to go fishing for it afterwards. I could usually reach in with my finger, piece of welding rod or a magnetic pickup and was able to get them back up to the hole. I will pull it half way out the hole then hook on to it with the hooked end of my tapered pin or pull it out with the open top jaw of a pair of channelocks using the block as a fulcrum, it pulls right out.
To install them first I always use brass plugs and use an appropriate sized socket (1/2” or ¾” drive is best) in the cupped part of the plug, sealant on it then hold it up to the hole and tap it in with a mallet.
Nice part about using a socket is if it is hard to reach to tap in, you can add on your extension bars to make it long enough to reach. (Use a brass mallet so you don’t screw up your extensions) I have added extensions long enough to come out the wheel well and tap them in from outside the vehicle.
Be sure and check the depth of the new plug because they come in different depths also.
As far as leaving them in the water jacket I would say get them out if at all possible because they could disrupt the coolant flow and might cause hotspots or at worst mysterious overheating problems.
If the plugs are not the originals and a gas station replaced them it is a good chance they are still in there rusting away in the block.
The most ingenious freeze plug job I think I have tackled was the one on the back of the head on a friends AMC Gremlin.
With about 2” between the head and the firewall I used a hole saw and cut a 2” hole through the firewall and punched it in from inside the car under the dash then covered the hole with sheet metal.
Worst ones are the ones behind the flywheel/ flex plate.
Or if you accidentally knock your cam plug out.
Jim
To install them first I always use brass plugs and use an appropriate sized socket (1/2” or ¾” drive is best) in the cupped part of the plug, sealant on it then hold it up to the hole and tap it in with a mallet.
Nice part about using a socket is if it is hard to reach to tap in, you can add on your extension bars to make it long enough to reach. (Use a brass mallet so you don’t screw up your extensions) I have added extensions long enough to come out the wheel well and tap them in from outside the vehicle.
Be sure and check the depth of the new plug because they come in different depths also.
As far as leaving them in the water jacket I would say get them out if at all possible because they could disrupt the coolant flow and might cause hotspots or at worst mysterious overheating problems.
If the plugs are not the originals and a gas station replaced them it is a good chance they are still in there rusting away in the block.
The most ingenious freeze plug job I think I have tackled was the one on the back of the head on a friends AMC Gremlin.
With about 2” between the head and the firewall I used a hole saw and cut a 2” hole through the firewall and punched it in from inside the car under the dash then covered the hole with sheet metal.
Worst ones are the ones behind the flywheel/ flex plate.
Or if you accidentally knock your cam plug out.
Jim