Jim Lane

You put FORD batteries in your truck?

The polarity is reversed so I could have the existing cables reach the terminals.

peckens

I have two because I couldnt find any 31's when the old one died. That was 5 years ago lol

Jim Lane

I live in Southern California where it 70*- 80* in the winter time however I since I use my truck for personal as well as work, my truck absolutely has to be able to start at any hour of the day or night,
also I go into some pretty ugly neighborhoods where I would not want to have a dead battery.

When I first got my truck back in 1999 I was working inside a huge abandon warehouse and since there were no lights I had left my parking lights on so I could work, when I went to leave around 4:00 AM I found that my battery had run down from having my lights on and would not start my truck, it is very creepy inside a big (haunted) warehouse when there are no lights.

Luckily I always carried a high amp battery charger and a lot of extension cords, after about 45 minuets I finally got it started and went home.

The next day I drew up and installed my dual battery system and included the option to jump start myself with the push of a button.

Originally having more than one battery was just for redundance in case my primary one failed.

My electrical system has evolved many times since then as my need for power increased,

With the addition of my sine wave inverter, now only 1500-watts (I had a 3000-watt), multiple 100-watt halogen work lights, onboard fluorescent lighting, ventilation blower and 200 PSI Viair air compressor it was clear I needed a separate system that was isolated from the trucks main electrical system.

At first I survived using a single Interstate 8-D Deep Cycle battery behind the drivers side wheel well but soon found that the trucks rough ride kept shaking the electrolyte out of the vent caps and made a mess, I designed a recovery system that worked but I needed a better answer so I decided on using AGM medical batteries since they can be mounted in any position.

So my truck currently has 5 batteries total,

Main starting battery.
Is a (High Cycling) Group-31P-MHD Interstate Commercial battery, CCA 950 and R/C-195

Auxiliary-I.
Battery on the passenger side fender is a Group-49 CCA 1000 @32* with R/C-150 from Auto Zone,

Its primary function is to jump start my truck should the primary battery fail but I am also able to select the battery that I use to power all of my onboard electronics like my mobile video recorder, cameras, radio, Dash Cam, additional alarm sirens, strobe light, map light, spot light and a USB power supply.



Auxiliary II through IV.
batteries are one bank and consist of three 75-amp-hour AGM medical/motive (deep cycle) batteries connected in parallel to produce a 225-amp-hour pack; this provides the DC power for my work lighting and my onboard sine wave inverter to run additional lighting, grinders, sawzalls, submersible pumps or whatever I need AC power for, I also have a 120-volt convenience outlet in the cab for chargers or whatever I need it for, curling irons, hair dryers.

My batteries are charged and maintained by a Leece Neville 110-555JHO 160-amp high output alternator, this charges 100-amps at an idle.

My grid heaters can cycle and my lights will barely flicker.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ground-297761/



Some have questioned me as to why I have such an over designed electrical system, saying why do you need that much power, they have obviously never used an inverter.

Using my inverter can give my system a workout so I have to have my engine running if I am using anything that needs a lot of current.

Yes that alternator is producing 174.4 amps continuously.




All of the batteries are interconnected to the alternator through lengths of #2 welding cable,
Starting battery and Aux-I battery are connected through a Sure Power Separator to handle the charging and isolation, also the self contained jump start feature.

Aux. II through IV.
are connected to the charging system using 00 welding cable through a Sure Power Separator in addition to a solenoid so I can manually control the current flow for high demands of my inverter. (this is soon to be redesigned)
The inverter is connected to the battery pack using #2 welding cable directly to the battery through a 200-amp T-Fuse.

The finned heat sink is my regulator to drop the voltage to my headlights so they last abit longer.



Here are some of the cables that I make to connect my devices.



As I said, my system is constantly evolving,
I am working on a distribution panel idea where I will be able to:
Select which buss I want to draw from.
Have all circuits fused,
Ground buss to eliminate ground loops
LED blown circuit indicators,
Relay controlled Ignition circuits,
Timer controlled Ignition circuits
Battery circuit controlled by a master switch.
LVD to shed load from main battery.

All of my interior and exterior lighting are LED’s except for my headlights, and backup lights (for now) I routinely will leave my parking lights on at night for 10-12 hours and I never have any problems starting my truck, if I did, all I need to do is to press a single button and I can jump start my truck without ever opening my hood,

But when I see anyone else with a dead battery, I always stop to help.

I use my custom 30’ jumper cables made from #2 welding cable.

I have used these to start Class-A motorcoaches with 330 CAT engines and Class-8 tractors,

I can parallel all of the batteries with a switch for a hot start.

This is why I have multiple batteries.

Has anyone had any experience with Odyssey or Continental military batteries?

Jim

j.fonder

ya, i can see how it would naturally be easier to buy 2 batteries and all the cables and ends to install them in a truck that was designed for 1 instead of hunting down something so rare as a group 31 battery.

mknittle

I like the isolated two battery set up I did in my jeep. the batterys are only tied together during winching with two big continuous duty solenoids. I can also jump the main battery with the flip of a toggle switch.

ofelas

Yes, I use Odyssey.

An Odyssey will make much of the below unnecessary & give you better 1/4 mile times with the weight savings as well.

boeingguy

I like simple 12v one battery work great 27 years , I give E for effort, but i buy powerstroke if it comes to that ,,,

ofelas

Fail, Tom. Same battery would last for 127 years with clean 120v through sine-wave inverter

Jim, I'll gladly send you some antirust paint for that booster & master. I am truly shocked you've let them go to seed.

Lame for rust free CA weather

tyssniffen

reviving this thread, as it seems the most relevant.

my main question seems to be: Group 31 or what I keep finding when I fill out the 'find-your-battery' things: Group 27.

I'm seeing a Napa Group 31 for ~$200
CA 1230 A
CCA 1000 A

and a

Costco Group 27 for $99
CA 1000
CCA 810

is the bigger one really that much more reliable? long lasting? needed?

u2slow

I'm reluctant to drop on the CCA since it's just one battery on our diesels. YMMV.

riki5156

I didn't know what an optima was when I bought one in 1991 to replace the failed group 31 that was in my cummins 90 d250. A guy at work was selling seconds with minor case flaws redtop 1000 cca for $60. 17 years it was in the dodge and when it wouldn't crank the diesel anymore I took it out and put it ln my 55 Buick century cruiser car where it cranked just fine.Went 2 years there and gave up so I fashioned a bracket to put it on my riding lawn mower where it lasted till this past summer. Really dead now. But optimas in all the vehicles now.

u2slow

That's a nice price!

I put dual optima reds in my diesel suburban - Costco was the best retail price I could find. However, they were only 800cca so I never considered them for a single battery with a Cummins.

FWIW, a lot of battery failures in dodges are due to regulator/alternator/wiring issues... not battery quality or brand.

riki5156

I fixed the overcharging on mine at the beginning of summer when I redid all the grounds and added extras. Then moved the voltage reg to the inner fender right next to the battery. Had to put my one spare redtop in wifes minivan when the $1.49 battery the PO put in died so no spares now. One battery is all I need specially if I plug in the block heater 30 minutes b4 I go anywhere.

Fordzilla

Two big Interstates in mine...No clue what group size, just the most CCA they had at the time......Ben

tyssniffen

and you're in TX? is CCA the "real" scale to judge batteries by then? That's what I did with my last purchase (1150) , but when I go look at what's suggested, they usually have smaller CCA (800).

don't really need 'cold cranking' in our temperate climates if I don't need it.