james1

There is an extremely easy way -- the module is from a company called "Painless Performance," part number 30815. It takes about 15 minutes to install and is made with high quality components. The link is:

http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchField=30815

Unfortunately the price is now $168 -- it's gone up a bit since I bought mine.

Crazy Matt

I bought my last one from jegs http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless+Perfo...30816/10002/-1


It was alot cheaper a few years ago like $70ish

Jim Lane

The reason that your SilverStar lamps are lasting so long on your unmodified system is because of the lower voltage but more importantly lower current to drive the lamps.

And the reason for the lower than battery voltage is RESISTANCE and resistance produces HEAT no way around it.

The wiring system on our trucks was poorly designed to save time and materials and not for efficiency if you look at our wiring harness you will see that the Low Beam circuit was wired using 16-gauge wire throughout from the dimmer switch to the lamps, the High Beams are a little better using 14-gauge to the lamps well you think this isn’t too bad until you find the lamp is grounded with a tiny little 20-gauge wire to the body, a 20-gauge wire is about the size of the wire you get with a set of cheap speakers.

Anybody who is running SilverStars or any H.O. lighting with stock wiring after you have them on for awhile hold your hand against your light switch and see if it isn’t hot be careful you might burn yourself, if it is hot on the outside just think what it is doing to the wires inside and then open your hood and feel the wires coming from the back of the headlamp.

If you look at almost every European, Scandinavian or Asian built car as far back as 30 years some even more they have always had headlamps relays and separate circuits at that, although not wired the way that I would have done it still relayed none the less.

Also deep inside the light switch there is an internal thermal circuit breaker that supplies voltage to the headlamp circuit and now 2 things happen, as the frail contacts tries to pass the current of the extra load of your higher output lights you have installed the resistance of the contacts give off heat, and once the contacts burn they no longer are able to handle the current that they were designed to carry so now more heat is produced, this is evident on the outside of the switch when you see the wiring burned and the plastic of the switch housing melted.

If you are lucky you will smell the wires burning and have time to stop and repair the damage and replace the switch, if you are not lucky you could be driving down some very dark winding road when suddenly all of the heat generated by the switch trips the circuit breaker and suddenly you have NO headlights.

If you can follow my simple step by step directions and willing to spend around $20.00 you can build yourself your own headlight relays and save yourself about $140.00 plus shipping instead of buying some that are already assembled out of pure gold, they are not rocket science or some secret patented design only 2) 5 dollar relays, 2 headlight sockets some wire and a handful of spade terminals.

The upside to this mod is you will drive your headlamps to their maximum light output.

The downside to this mod is you will never have to replace your headlamp switch again.

I would like to hear some feedback from someone who had used these relays with any other brand of High Output lamps, they will have bright even if they are not SilverStars just nowhere near as bright.

Jim