lovemysan

I've been thinking about a installing a shift kit for a while. My trucks shifting is annoying. The 1-2 shift is liveable but the 2-3 shift is irritating. It only stays in 2nd gear for a few moments. The shifts are almost unnoticable other than a loss in felt torque. I spend most of my time in town between 20-40mph. I would like for the shifts to be firmer, cleaner, and allow for more rpm to be reached in 2nd gear(light throttle). I wouldn't mind a LOT firmer. I was thinking about a transgo shift kit for $80.

Will this help the shifting even though the converter is stock? Or will I be waisting my money until I replace the converter?

lovemysan

Also if you have a shift kit I would love to hear you impressions/opinions


here's the link to the kit

http://www.transgo.com/chryslertfod.htm

Tuckerdee

Shift kit will improve shifts. But...part of this is from the crap-o torque converter that came in these trucks. I adjusted the bands in my truck and that alone made a huge difference. Pretty easy to do. You just need an in/lbs torque wrench. I can actually feel the shifts now! One band, inside the pan, adjusts the 1-2 shift. The other band, on the side of the tranny, adjusts the 3-o/d shift. Another way to firm up your shifts is to use a different ATF. Type F (used in Fords) fluid will produce the firmest shifts. Dexron is in the middle. And the ATF +3 that we use produces the smoothest shifts. At least I think that's the order. The differences are the friction modifiers the different fluids use.

j-fox

You will need someone who is knowledgable of the valvebody. You may get it right with a shift kit, but more likely you are going to have to be patient and modify the VB several times. I'd recommend a rebuild at the same time, to make sure all seals are good.
The bands are for reverse , internal adjustment, and 2 nd gear is external. They won't effect any other gears.

marksmith

There is actually an adjustment on the side of the VB for the 1-2-3 shifts. Its next to the line pressure set screw.

In makes the 1-2-3 stretch out.

Out makes them shift sooner.

BC847

I've got the TransGo kit installed in my mess and think highly of it.

The kit offers a lot of options including altering the shift points, engagement speed, amount of gear overlap, etc.

It also offers options based on what TQ you're running (stock, 89%, 91%, etc).

It includes new modified spool valves and springs that are installed pending your intended application. Also included are components that are installed in the different servos (again, pending your intended application/use).

If I had to fuss about something, it'd be the instructions can be confusing in some areas. Read them, then read them again.


The installation is easily done using standard hand tools. Go ahead and plan on getting four or five cans of the aerosol "Brake Cleaner" as it will prove VERY helpful in cleaning all the valve-body parts. This is a must!
Make sure you have a clean work surface to use and plenty of room on it to lay out your parts as removed. This will make it much easier to put things back together.

While it can seem intimidating at first, if you read, understand, and follow the instructions, you'll have it done within a typical Saturday.

While my kit didn't have it, it's my understanding the new editions include a video tape covering the typical installation.

There is one stick in the mud as it were, that being, there is a spacer that's intended to be installed in the servo that engages second gear. To gain access to that servo, one must separate the transfer case from the transmission. I left this particular spacer out as I wasn't into digging that deep ATM. It's my understanding from others who have installed it, that this spacer makes the first to second gear shifting really bang. Without it I, like others find the resulting engagement plenty firm.


Personally, I think going straight to a replacement valve-body allows one to have it custom modified to meet specific applications. Certainly any vendor offering such would expect you to give input as to your intended application so that they could set up the valve-body correctly.

If you're gonna get a custom built valve-body, you DON'T need to get a shift kit as well as those mods will be included in the valve-body.


If you're not comfortable with working in your trans, it may be best to simply go with the complete valve-body as it's much easier to install than the shift kit.


I hope this helps more than confuses.


For good sport, check out my members pics as I have most of the TransGo shift kit's instructions posted.

lovemysan

Thanks BC. Well I'm not afraid of lots of delicate parts. I'm pretty annalytical. I rebuilt my nissan engine 2 years ago with good success. The instructions seem decent to me. I've been considering rebuilding the unit myself but I don't have the $$ to do it with upgraded components so I'm gonna wait for that. I also considered a performance VB but the price of the transgo kit is what lulled me away from the valve body. I have a 2 wheel drive so no transfer case to deal with. I would like to do a converter, rear main seal, reseal the trans, and a shift kit but I'm lazy. I believe I would set the trans up to shift hard.

banzaitoyota

I am in the preocess of fixing my brolen rooster comb and installing the shift kit. What is the trick to getting the valve body removed from the tranny. Mine is hung on the shifter assembly itself

BC847

If memory serves me correct:

First, you need to clean the shift linkage right there where the cable connects to the shifter shaft. It seems there's a set-screw type of connector on the shaft right where it comes out of the trans case. It needs to come up, and off the shaft. EDIT: I recall it's more of a lever, that's split. The set screw deal makes the shifter lever clamp onto the shaft.

The goal being to allow the shaft to slide through it's opening, letting the valve-body drop straight down.


Others who've done it more recently might chime in, but I think that's how it went.

banzaitoyota

Thanks, out to the truck to try, before it gets dark

banzaitoyota

The E-Clip on the park rod is now kicking my butt. I will wrassle again in the morning!

marksmith

You should be able to turn the output shaft and get the park rod to release and slide toward the front of the vehicle and take it out WITH the VB.


Mark

banzaitoyota

Ok, got the Valve body out, easier to see the E-Clip in the light.

The Rooster comb stamping was loose as hell on the shaft. LUCKILY, I had an old Valve Body from a 98 over in the junkpile. Looks like MOPAR learned a lesson and changed the design of the Rooster Comb.

Valve Body has been cleaned, Shift Kit installed and re-assembled. Now to reinstall and road test

cLAYH

You have the Dexron and ATF +3 mixed up. Type F then ATF+3 then Dexron.

ATF+3 is what Chrysler specs for our trucks.

ChrisLib

Mopar ATF is much slipperier than Dex, I vote for Dex.