She went run away
#1
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She went run away
I was headed down the road and noticed the truck didn't go back to idel when I put the clutch in. Thinking maybe the cable or pedal was just stuck or binded I taped the skinny pedal and it shot to 25oo. Then it started on it's way up. I finally got it killed at 29oo. Thank god for that pull kill I put in. I had it towed back to the parking lot of my barracks and now it's time to dive into it and figure out what went wrong.
My question is what do you think it could have been? I think I had the fuel screw in to far. I'm hoping there's not perminate damage on the inside. I'm gonna try backing it out 3 turns and try to start it. I'll have a 2x6 and a buddy with me for that one.
Do yall know where sells a good quality but not pricey rebuild kit for the VE? I'm not gonna go get one right now but If I've bone damage on the inside I would like to know where one sits so I can snag it if I need it ya know?
My question is what do you think it could have been? I think I had the fuel screw in to far. I'm hoping there's not perminate damage on the inside. I'm gonna try backing it out 3 turns and try to start it. I'll have a 2x6 and a buddy with me for that one.
Do yall know where sells a good quality but not pricey rebuild kit for the VE? I'm not gonna go get one right now but If I've bone damage on the inside I would like to know where one sits so I can snag it if I need it ya know?
#3
If you killed it with the pull stop it wasnt running away, linkage or something has to be in a bind. If it was caused by the fuel screw it should have happened the first time it was started after the adjustment. I would check all linkage and cables first.
#5
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That was my understanding about run away also. I though that "run away" by deffination was the engine burning oil from around the pistons. But after talking to the diesel shops around base they said it was run away and wanted me to let them come look. I went out to this morning and went thru the linkages and took all the brackets off the pump and took 2 turns back from the fuel screw and reset the idle. Seems to be ok now so maybe I had to much on the fuel screw. It was slugish coming back down after 2900+RPMs. I'm about to make the 80 mile drive to Greenville so we shall see. I've got my 11mm deep well socket and 1x6 board in the seat. wish me luck.
#6
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That's exactly what it sounds like, if you had been turning your fuel screw in, wen't just a little to far.
i did it and no tellin how many thousands have done it that crank in there screw.
when you go a little to far the (ONLY) thing that will kill the engine is to block off the air.
Dar
i did it and no tellin how many thousands have done it that crank in there screw.
when you go a little to far the (ONLY) thing that will kill the engine is to block off the air.
Dar
#7
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That's exactly what it sounds like, if you had been turning your fuel screw in, wen't just a little to far.
i did it and no tellin how many thousands have done it that crank in there screw.
when you go a little to far the (ONLY) thing that will kill the engine is to block off the air.
Dar
i did it and no tellin how many thousands have done it that crank in there screw.
when you go a little to far the (ONLY) thing that will kill the engine is to block off the air.
Dar
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#9
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Why did you hit your Turbo with a 2x6?
#11
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The original pump on mine did very much the same thing, started idling higher and higher out of nowhere. I was on my way to work and turned around and headed for home, by the time I got home it was darn near impossible to haul it down with the brakes. All the linkage checked out and the truck would still shut off with the key. I dont know what went haywire inside the pump (yet...future project) and I just swapped another pump on it, so I`ll toss another vote in for a shutoff-able runaway.
#13
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I had problem with the throttle one time too. Started off, gave it some throttle and it could not come back down, tapped the throttle again and again and it just kept getting faster. Finally turned the key off and the truck shut down. In my case it was the throttle linkage shaft was rusty and seizing up.
I don't understand why you can not shut down the motor in a "run away" situation with the key, or the manual lever? I can maybe see the key not working since it's pulling so much fuel the small spring and rubber stop might not be able to cut off the flow. But the manual shut down lever is just that, a manual fuel shut off so it should shut down the motor regardless of fuel flow.
Just my 2 cents on this.
I don't understand why you can not shut down the motor in a "run away" situation with the key, or the manual lever? I can maybe see the key not working since it's pulling so much fuel the small spring and rubber stop might not be able to cut off the flow. But the manual shut down lever is just that, a manual fuel shut off so it should shut down the motor regardless of fuel flow.
Just my 2 cents on this.
#14
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I don't know the technical words but the way I understand it is at some point fuel spills over something in the pump causing the runaway. And that the rad and the manual shutdown lever are helpless because they are actually being bypassed. When I get home I will do a search and see if I can come up with a better explanation.
#15
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i found an old fuel door works awesome for blocking the turbo. it's light and easy to move around, fits the front of the turbo perfectly and will stay there from the vacuum untill the turbo stops without having to hold it. just pop it on and walk away. also fits behind the seat easily. jm2c
daryl
daryl