Fred Swanson

The money spent on these internals isn't that much compared to just one billet shaft. Proportionally, as you increase HP, and increase pressures, your going to get a leak on this tranny, it's destined.
And you shouldn't need a billet shaft on a 518. I doubt anyone would want to run that tight of a TC to find out if it would break.

Build the tranny once to where you want to go, then you don't have to be broke down because you addressed it after the power adds. But then, everyone has their reasons for doing things differently.

BC847

That said is pretty-much what I'm thinking.

Thinking out loud in type . . .. . I can buy a lot of heavy duty parts with much less the cost of an over the counter unit. . . .. I've been around the innards of a few TH350s and well into a piece-o-stinky cavalier front-wheel drive. . . .. I've reviewed the FSM and understand what's involved . .. .. Worked out the preliminary details with a local transmission shop to sub-out those components that absolutely require tool number #$%^&*. In fact, one fella's offered to let me use his tools at his shop with him close by if needed . . . . . ..

That said, I'm inclined to build the snot out of my mess so as to support my future plans. I think it'll be less expensive in the long run.
Those components sdstriper and Fred Swanson mention are actually already on the list.

In fact, I'm trying to find a local shop that can readily replace most of the bushings as the FSM points to them strongly as a common source of internal leakage (barring them being in pristine condition).

I'm pretty well versed in checking clutch drums and hubs for hair-line cracks. etc. . .. . I'm buddies with the folks down at Loop Road Auto Parts in Garner and have access to their magnaflux tool, etc . . ..




A couple of questions . .

- sdstriper mentions the OEM 4.2 apply lever. I've seen reference to that in other ratios as well. What's the deal there? I'm assuming one is gonna offer a higher mechanical leverage. Perhaps a higher band clamping force. But at what cost? A harder engagement, etc?

- I've read recently of a fellow member here who's running a tight converter (91%) and he mentions having to lower his idle from the stock 800rpm so as to keep from pushing through the brakes at the regular Joe stop light. Anyone else experience such?


Once again folks, I DO appreciate your input.

David

sdstriper

Dodge used 3.8, 4.2 and the Hemi 5.0 ratio apply lever. I just had a 727HD apart and it had the 3.8 lever. Just as you thought, mechanical advantage lever applying band. There is a strut component there also, I would get a Sonnex if it were me, Fairbanks Superior offers a better than OEM strut also, but the Sonnex is much beefier. A used 4.2 lever on ebay can be had for under $30, new struts are about the same. Applying the band quicker reduces overlap, less slippage. Here's some good sites to browse for a good read or parts galore to look or buy...

http://allpar.com/mopar/transmission...-tom-hand.html

http://www.redrider.us/518_parts.htm

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...gory_Code=A518

JD730

David,
I'm running a Goerend torque converter and valve body in my 47RH plus a few other parts. From talking to Dave Goerend about the front apply lever, he recommended I go with a billet/hardened 3.8 lever. I asked him why not a 4.2 and he explained to me after the valve body mods and such with the higher pressure you just don't need the higher ratio lever to apply even more force on the front band.

I've had my truck not want to stop backing down a very slight hill with a trailer, had to put it in neutral to stop it. I've also had it spin the rear tire in a mud puddle when I'm holding the brake at idle.

I'm also in the process of building up another trans. I'm putting together another 47RH for my truck. Fresh build, lots of new parts, billet input, etc...

flashgordon

When you have your tanny in L1 you have first gear aplyed and also the Revers band aplyed. When you shift form L1 to 2 the revers band has to release and the 2 gear band has to aply.........the timing of this is absolutely crusil to the life of the band and the quality of the shift.

I would do some research on this and make sure, what ever lever ratio you us, it matches the valve body and the pressures that you us.

I had several tranny built for my cuda, that failed in a years span (i drag race my cuda all summer long)

What failed every time was the revers band or the 2nt band

Have been running a manual shift valve body which eliminates the reverse band in L1(no deceleration in L1 or hold back) for many years with out a single problem.

In fact it has out live 2 engs now and waiting to get enough cash the rebuild this motor so i can play some more!

Flash.

BC847

Excellent feed-back folks!

It appears the bottom line is I should contact TransGo and see what they suggest as a ratio for the apply lever using their kit (full) as I can understand better now how they might play with one another. Kewl!


Had a rather in depth preview so to speak with the wife tonight. It's neat she actually understands full-well what I mean when I say I want to take it from it's current high 9's. to the very low 8's if not . . !? (She's been working at the track part-time the past two summers working the ET shack and rescue/EMT if needed).
Anyhoot, she doesn't seem put-off by the thought of pushing through a light brake. So tight converter, or tighter converter. Who knows right now. 89%?

Increase the clutch/steel count in the different packs. UnnKay.

I think I'm seeing a bunch of straight-up gasser dragster stuff here and there . . . . increased spider gears in the planetary assembly(s)? I may be looking at the wrong stuff there. It seems there's a lot of 727 and 90x parts that may be interchangeable. Not sure.

Still a bunch of homework.

flashgordon

Just a couple more thoughts, 4 gear planetary sets "only". the 3 gear planetary were for small block, stock engs.

There is.....or was a low first gear planetary gear set out there, but i thing, with a Diesel, you almost need a taller first gear.

Flash.

BC847

LOL!!

I've gone full circle a couple of times now. Back to doing it all myself.

I'm currently cyphering how I can go about the task (sequence) so as to avoid the need for a couple of special tools. I've got it down to two at the moment.

Gonna have to have the overdrive spring compressor to do that one for sure. Less than $110. I can sell it on Ebay I guess when done. I've got to nail down a couple of bars (straight edges) used to measure end-play. Bushings are the big question. Frankly I've no use for a complete set of bushing drivers knowing I'll only use two or so.


I've just about decided to tear down the trans before buying any parts as I've questions as to what exactly is in there. As mentioned above for example, there's at least one gear-set that runs 4 planetary gears. Some vendors are selling units up to six planetary gears. I'm wondering if the increased planetary count is for strength, or ratio change. ?

Many sell clutch bands of up to 3/16" oversize in width. Carbon fiber flex or rigid steel? If I understand correctly, there may be a milled surface on one component that wasn't started till '92 or so.

I realize perhaps I'm leaning toward overkill, but I've always been a fan of good foundations. All the fuel in the world is useless if you don't have the iron to support it. By my math, I'll still come out at worst, comparable in cost to a lesser expensive store bought unit.


EDIT: Something funny. For fifteen years now, my family and I have been heavily involved in fire, rescue, and EMS. One instrument I've had for a while now is intended for getting stuff out of your eye. A short metal stem with a very thin nylon loop at one end, and a dull pointed magnet at the other.

That same tool is used to aid in setting seals on transmission pistons etc!