rbrettctd

Ya, I dug into mine when I first got it and played with it to figure it out. I figured turning tight would raise but just wanted to make sure.

Ace

I don't see how turning that actuating rod thread in or out affects boost pressure activation. It is just a mechanical link between the pressure cannister diaphragm and the lever that opens the gate. Seems to me it should be properly adjusted once it is set to the point it opens the wastegate all the way at max boost and comlpetely closes the wastegate below the desired boost activation pressure. What am I missing here?

PapeCAT

Well you need to understand that the wastegate controls the max boost, not the other way around. If you shorten the rod link, you effectively have the wastegate actuator in a semi extended position. It is springloaded in a NEGATIVE fashion - meaning it is always pulling in or closing the wastegate. The more psi into the actuator inlet = the further out the actuator rod pushes. It is an almost parallel increase in psi pressure required to get the rod to extend - all the way to the max extention.
The wastegate flapper only needs about 1/3 or less of the full travel capable of the wastegate actuator. Moving the flapper travel to the END of the actuator rod travel = more psi needed to open the wastegate.

Bob Beauchaine

Mine is a Banks and it is adjustable. I've adjusted it to be fully open at 34 PSI. Without an adjustable boost elbow I would see a lot of flutter when I was towing up a hill such as Cabbage Hill in Eastern Oregon. I could not adjust the flutter out by adjusting the wastegate. I even called Banks to get the pre-set adjustment all with no luck. The adjustment procedure is fairly easy and I will post how I did mine if you guys want.

Bob

rbrettctd

Id love to see it, Im trying to get mine figured out.

Bob Beauchaine

You will need an air source that you can control the air pressure with, this will be hooked up to the sensing port on the wastegate actuator ( the first time I did this I used a bicycle tire pump). Since you will have to work blind you can use a rolled up towel that will fit between engine and the frame and a mirror - one of the large round ones women use. The one I had had two sides one to magnify and one normal - I used the normal side. Position the mirror on the towel so that you can see the actuator rod. The threaded end of the rod hooks on to the wastegate. Back off the nut holding the connector to the wastegate - at this point all you need to do is break it loose. You will see an E clip - carefully remove the E clip - don't lose it. The rod is only threaded on the wastegate end. Now slowly apply air pressure to actuator while you feel the rod move once pressure starts to moves the rod this will give you the opening psi of the wastegate. If you slowly add psi until the rod stops this will give you the full open pressure of the wastegate. Remove the pin holding the connector to the wastegate and slide the rod off the wastegate arm. If memory serves me to increase the psi to open the wastegate - shorten the rod. To decrease psi lengthen the rod. I set mine to be fully open at 34 psi, which works for me. You will have to hook the connector on and off until you get it adjusted where you want it for adjustments you wont need to reinstall the E clip. Once done put the E clip back on disconnect the air supply line, re-connect the sensine line and you're good to go.

Bob

rbrettctd

Sounds good. Im gonna get a boost elbow first and see what that does for me and go from there.

dpuckett

WHen setting wastegate pressures, one must also consider the efficiency range of the turbo used. That will affect the desired setting more than the head gasket, as most stock turbos will top out in the 28-#5psi range (H1C and HX35, respecitively). The HTT upgrades are good to close to 40, I think.

Newer style head gaskets are good to 50psi.

Daniel

Ace

Thanks for all the tips, guys. Unfortunately after working on it last night, the whole wastegate issue became a moot point after I learned I could not even use the wastegate at all. Seems the mounting bracket for the rod actuator and pressure sensor wanted to be in the same place as the oil drain tube when clocked for correct alignment to the elbow connecting to the IC. So I took it off, wired it shut and will finish putting it back together this morning. I suspect there is not enough fuel there to require even using the wastegate anyway. We will see.

Ace

So with the 12cm it spools maybe (just "maybe") a hair quicker and produces 5lbs. LESS boost at WOT now. I does seem to have a more pronounced whistle just idling around, if you can call that an improvement. Of course EGT builds quicker. Wonderful.

I give up. Now I have a shortened stock downpipe and a poorer performing truck after throwing close to $300 at the turbo. I guess I'll get a Stans DP, put the 16cm back on and quit trying to get any more out of these injectors.

I suppose however, if I didn't get the wastegate wired shut tight enough that could explain why boost is down. That is all I can think of. OK, looks like I'll just have to mod the drain tube so it'll fit and try that. At least then I'll know the wastegate is shut tight with the braket and rod on there. I did notice the actuator rod seemd to be holding that lever in with a fair amount of pressure when I took it apart. It has got to be something simple like that.

wannadiesel

I think the wastegate is open a little.

apwatson50

I would agree. when I first put mine on I wired it open, didn't spool well at all and lost boost. I'm surprised it still built boost.

Ace

Oh yeah. Never fails, how much better things work where they are properly assembled and installed.

Max boost is about the same, obviously a simple matter of available fuel. BUT (BIG but!) it come on alot faster now. Shift recovery and low end smoke is noticeably reduced as well, which is what I was really after. Truck's runnin like a raped ape now. WOOHOO!!

apwatson50

Glad you got it fixed, how are your egt's?

Ace

I'll be keeping an eye on that for awhile and report back after I've had a chance to run it hard up some hills, or get the trailer loaded behind it. That was why I did not opt for the 12cm and went with a 16cm last year in the first place - fear of excessive EGT while towing. Then after awhile the bombing bug took hold and the incessant search for better performance began. I'm hoping that Powerstroke IC along with my good intake and exhaust will allow me to tow well with the 12cm. If it does I'll have to say this combo is pretty well optimized. New fuel pin, maybe?