Setting up a valet
03-15-2011, 05:11 PM
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Setting up a valet
Well it didn't take long! Had the truck a little over a week and I have a dennyt stage 2 and 3200 spring on the way, planning to turn the pump up a bit and bump the timing. Also putting in gauges of course.
That being said, I'm planning to add a valet switch for towing, and I read the write up in the sticky... here's my question: Is it necessary to use a 3 way valve with an exhaust port? Or would a simple in/out valve work to block the boost signal? I was thinking of mounting a compact solenoid valve right between the afc and the manifold using rigid brass or stainless plumbing. Anyone tried this? Any input or further valet set-ups welcome!
That being said, I'm planning to add a valet switch for towing, and I read the write up in the sticky... here's my question: Is it necessary to use a 3 way valve with an exhaust port? Or would a simple in/out valve work to block the boost signal? I was thinking of mounting a compact solenoid valve right between the afc and the manifold using rigid brass or stainless plumbing. Anyone tried this? Any input or further valet set-ups welcome!
03-15-2011, 06:11 PM
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As long as the truck is in no/low boost mode, a simple valve will work. If there is boost applied, it will be trapped in the diaphragm letting the fuelpin ride down.
03-15-2011, 06:43 PM
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This makes sense, just wanted to double check. So I guess the only plus to having the exhaust port would be the ability to switch to valet mode while under a load.
03-16-2011, 02:11 AM
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An on/off solenoid is all you need...I would use poly air brake line (actually I did) instead of rigid, diesels vibrate a lot, it would be hard on a rigid connection....
03-16-2011, 06:15 PM
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You could drill a very small hole in the line between the valve and the AFC. That way it bleeds off the pressure, manual boost controllers have this.
You can get an air switch at a big truck shop for arond $20. It looks just like an electrical switch, but is an air valve. They have them that will exhaust the output when switched off, no bleeder required. That, some 1/4" air line, a few fittings and you have a vavlet for around $30. I drilled the AFC top for 1/8" NPT.
Then there is no wiring to deal with, simpler is better. IMO
You can get an air switch at a big truck shop for arond $20. It looks just like an electrical switch, but is an air valve. They have them that will exhaust the output when switched off, no bleeder required. That, some 1/4" air line, a few fittings and you have a vavlet for around $30. I drilled the AFC top for 1/8" NPT.
Then there is no wiring to deal with, simpler is better. IMO
03-16-2011, 08:35 PM
#7
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Does a valet switch exhaust ALL air pressure going to the AFC, keeping the fuel pin in a fixed position?
If not, does it keep just enough air pressure within the line to push the fuel pin down but not as much as all air pressure would?
If not, does it keep just enough air pressure within the line to push the fuel pin down but not as much as all air pressure would?
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