Anyone know what the serp belt part # is for the Goodyear Gatorback belt, for an A/c inter-cooled truck? Mine is a 93 W250 if that's makes a difference? The belt I have now (Goodyear Gatorback, is marked 4080830 on top, then 8PK2110 on the bottom of the package). I spend the better part of a day trying to get the belt on. When I finally did, I started the truck and looked under the hood, to the sight of the belt being shreaded on the outer portion of the belt (near the timing cover)? Is this the wrong Gatorback belt I have????? I bought it from NAPA.
Also, can someone go over with me the procedure for the serp belt replacement, on an A/C inter-cooled truck? I have the diagram on the hood, which I followed. Maybe someone can simplfy the procedure for me I have always been told (by my father) that I'm a little slow. Maybe that's my problem I have changed serp belts on my 95 F150 inline six in ten minutes. The cummins has me stumped! This is my first belt change on it, since I bought it in early June on this summer. I am betting I have the wrong Gatorback belt? Nothing like NAPA counter help

 

If you got in on there, it's the right belt. The Cummins tensioner leaves little room for error (read:wrong belt) It's a little too easy to get the belt out of the groove on the crank pulley. When this happens, one of the belt grooves is riding on the inside lip of the crank pulley, ripping the belt apart as it goes. Have someone lean on the tensioner for you so you can concentrate on checking that the belt is indeed centered in the crank pulleys, as well as the others. Hope this helps.

 

allso when you put the next belt on make the last pulley you put the belt around, the water pump. it's a lot easier then the groved alt pulley!

 

Yeah, and the combination of the smooth water pump pulley and the blood will make it easier to get your finger out when you slip on the tensioner wrench

 

laughing so hard i had to wipe my screen off

But this is aaaaaaaa still a go point to remember!!

 

I've lost a grove on a belt before. At least I've learned from my mistakes.

 

Use a 2' cheater bar on the ratchet, make it alot easier.

No blood, no sweat, no tears.

 

Thanks all for the input! I checked Autozone's web site, and it appears that I have the right Gatorback serp belt. I figured out that putting the belt on the water pump last was best. I have a hard time routing from the A/C pump and over the idler, then on last to the water pump. For me, that routing from the A/C pulley to the ilder is hard I think the belt routing from the idler maybe be causing some trouble? I might have to replace the Idler assembly? I will probably put the frayed Gatorback belt back on, with the frayed side facing the fan(frayed side was facing the timing cover when taken off for inspection), to see if I have things right. I hate to ruin another $40 belt!!!!!!!

 

Make sure you don't have the belt on one of the timing cover bolts below the dampner. This would likely do the same to a belt as a bad tensioner, when the engine starts..

 

After 52 KDP's I can route the belt without looking at the diagram...

 

Thanks again all for the input! I got the belt on today 9/8. She's running fine
The problem was, I was running the serp belt from the idler pulley to the water pump. So, the belt was rubbing on the idler arm casting, working the belt off the pulleys. Stupid me, I was looking at the diagram for a non A/C setup! I finally figured out that I needed to route the belt from the alternator pulley to the water pump pulley. At least I now know how to do the job in 10-15 minutes, instead of a day and a half I did ruin a new $40 Goodyear Gatorback belt Still cheaper with the damaged belt than going to the local Dodge dealer

 

Dave,
Wow 52 KDP's! That's the next project on my W250. Probably won't get it done until boating season in over the end of October.