Tron

Over the last year the truck has been getting a bit louder. Finally I decided to check the fuel pressure from the lift pump. It seemed ok but would drop off very quick if any throttle was given. So I replaced it.

About a month before that the truck started to knock a bit (or what sounds like some one taking a drum stick the the edge of the drum). Now its gotten worse and also way more rattley and will intermitantly run a little rougher at cruise. Its the worst when its cold but it idles better cold. When its warm the idle drops real low and is very rough but not missing, it has never missed yet. Im guessing it takes longer for the IP to warm up than the engine because its seems to run better and quieter after about 20mins but the engine was warm after 15min. I don't know thats just how it seems. When this first got my attention I started running 2 stroke oil and it ran a lot smoother but has now gotten to the point that it does not make a difference any more and I don't trust it any more.

Also I remove the fuel return bango bolt with the screen in it and found a few metal filings not many but I know they should not be there. I wished I had checked the fuel pressure sooner.

My main Question is can a failing IP cause what sounds like engine knocking. Ive heard it on a Ford before but not a Cummins. Im worried that changing the IP I will still have a engine problem. It seems like Im on the right track to me but would like a little bit more piece of mind before I locate a new IP. They are @$%#ing expensive up hear.

Thanks for reading and all help given.
Yuri

SkinnyBTN

If you have to get a new pump order it online. Midwest Fuel Injection has taken care of me so far. When my pumps started going bad they got a good bit loader. I too thought it sounded like the engine knocking at first. Also, had the low idle when hot. Are you running a stock lift pump? I would upgrade to something w/ a little more flow. Thats how I burned up my second pump was to little inlet pressure. Midwest Fuel Injection sent me a new pump with no hassle and trusted me to send in the one that went bad once I swapped them out. My biggest tale tale sign was extremely hard/no hot starts. But would fire right up when cool. MWF pumps are $753.00

wannadiesel

Why not pull an oil sample and send it in for analysis? That will put your mind at ease about any potential mechanical issues.

Tron

Any more input from others who have had there IP fail.

Also, who would I send an oil sample to?

Caver Dave

Mine hasn't completely failed, but showing the signs... hard(er) to start, low idle when hot, no start when hot. I still need to insure the inlet pressure & and remove the Pollack from the circuit, but...

Blackstone Laboratories

The $20 or so it costs is cheap compared to peace of mind...

wannadiesel

Check with the local CAT dealer, Cat does analysis pretty cheap.

Tron

Pollack...What are you talking about?

Caver Dave

Pollack... electric operated valve used to switch between 2 different fuel sources (stock & bedmount tanks in my case). After a couple of warm low idle shutoffs & no starts last month, several folks thought it may be sucking air somewhere... just my WAG it may be at the Pollack.

pwrtripls1

My IP has not completly gone out but I only get about 50 feet per gallon. lol The seals are shot, one on the back side is spewing diesel, the throttle shaft has too much play, fuel drips out the afc housing, and I could go on. I dont feel like messing with rebuilding it so I'm just going to buy a new one and hope it lasts another 300k.

Tron

Thanks a lot guys.
One other thing I have noticed is if I get on it a lot and for a few good hard pulls it will run quieter but only for a few KM I suspect till things cool. Ive been told this could be air related but in my mind I think its still the IP.

Tron

So I found a pump shop that can rebuild my IP for a reasonable price. So not to bad. After I told them what I had in the pump and done for adjusting the guy told me that they do all the work for Piers diesel in Vancouver. So that was a bonus. He is tuning it with the 3200gsk and the Old smokey fuel pin. So should be good.

On kind of a side note. When I pulled the pump the fsm said to set TDC by pining it using the pin below the IP. So I did that. Then in the FSM it says the key way should be at 6 o-clock. It was not it was 6:30-7 o-clock. So I went around again and repinned it. Same thing. There have been no mods to this truck before I got it so Im pretty sure the gear has not been moved but I have no explanation for it and was wondering if anyone has come across this before.
I explained this to the guy at the pump shop and he said to just pin it and leave it. When he sends the pump back it will be TDC and then to just move the gear till it lines up with the key way on the IP.

Any input would be appreciated
Thanks