93 12v

If you're bent on getting the screw out, Put a second nut on it, and jam the 2 nuts together, and use that like a bolt, same way you take a stud out.

JustRamIt91

No i didn't see the rest of it... yeah thanks brandon!!! I think the best thing will be buying the new one. Do you know if it comes with a new lock/retaining nut? This may be the best way if it comes with a new nut, i'll be able to weld the nut/bolt together and get the sucker out of there. if not i'll have to find one that fits, shouldn't be too difficult.

As you see in the picture the threads are buggered up going out of the pump, i can't get it to move. removing it will bugger up the remaining threads 1/2" and would require some work.

Thanks big stinky for the fish line idea. when i get that far again!

JustRamIt91

I just want to get this thing back together and working, if i even have another nut(metric) i'd have to get a thread die for the specific bolt as the crimped factory cap has those 10 or so threads collapsed. This would make removing the second nut impossible and may allow me to screw the screw back in to where it was and call it a night.

Further down the road tuning will be a ***** because the assembly will be back on the pump.

Crossy's son

you need to measure or write down how much threads are INSIDE the pump when the fuel screw is in near stock position,

or you may put the pump back together and it may run funny because the screw is too far out or it may runaway if its too far in.

I'd say just buy a new screw, and go to a hardware store and go to the metric section and buy a nut that works.

JustRamIt91

GOT IT!!!



I did turn it in 1/2 turn before i had this problem, the jam nut didn't move much. I was able to find a metric nut and run the screw back in. Just before the nut touched the washers and tightened the jam nut 1/4 turn before it was snug to my liking.

How many threads are stock? I'll count them when i go back out and look for fishing wire

Looks like 5 or 6 in the picture, i think stock is 4.

Onemoparnut

Every pump is a little different so there is no stock thread count. You have to count the threads before you take it appart. Now it will be a guessing game.

JustRamIt91

I should be safe where it is now. I double checked and it appears to have 5 threads showing. I saw 3 different pictures in other threads with the stock cap still intact with 4 threads showing. One turn on the fuel screw should be fine? or back it out 1/2 turn? A lot of threads talk about 1/2 turns until engine gets symptoms of runaway then back off 1/4-1/2 and fuel should be set.

I'm fresh out of fishing line :-/

Crossy's son

The pump will almost never run away with just a 1/2 turn on the screw.

more worried about you hoppin' in it and being like OMG THIS POWER IS AWESOME!!!!!!! and melting a piston because the EGT's were so high because the fuel screw added so much fuel. LOL.

If you notice alot more WOT smoke all said and done, chances are the fuel screw is in past stock, just be careful till you get an EGT gauge.

And boy are you gonna be enjoying that spring

JustRamIt91

Thanks for the re-assurance. I am looking for a smaller sting to use. One thing to keep my eye on. I just haven't bitten the bullet on the egt gauge. I will post another thread on that some other time. I'm also looking into the tach. the gauge pod i bought looks cheezy (points to the ceiling). I may put a temp 3-gang where your boost gauge is mounted.

The hunt is on for fishing wire/mousing wire.

Crossy's son

Which Gauge pod did you buy??

Autometer or glowshift ?

JustRamIt91

let me begin by saying Thankyou! Really made a stressful situation bareable.

Brandon, i bought an autometer... they point right to the ceiling. thats for another thread.

Just got in from a test drive

It was worth the long, tedious, problem filled trip.
After adjusting the idle 3 or 4 times i got it to where it sounds a little bit lower than before, should get a tach on there some time soon.

With the power screw in a few turns... un sure how many, it was good for black smoke with a burp of the throttle. Under half throttle acceleration there was just barely a haze. At full throttle it was black, didn't stay in it because i didn't feel safe not being able to see the exhaust smoke clearly and with out a gauge i'd rather be safe than stuck on the side of the road with a rather heavy paper weight. Will need more adjusting.

1 set back is that my new wrench is stuck on the bottom nut, need to pull pump away from timing plate to get enough clearance to remove one way ratchet wrench.

Next is the killer dowel pin, i will tackle that next weekend. This will also give me a way to remove the stuck wrench

Somewhere in the middle i will definitely need to be removing the turbo. Inspecting the exhaust manifold and determining where to mount the pyro probe.

Propane is on hold, i can't find enough materials/parts locally to get a real grasp on making it a weekend project.

Again Thanks for all your help!!!! it really made the difference in turning a few mountains into mole hills. Giving me another way to look at a solution rather than the problem enabled me to fix it.

93 12v

Glad you got it man.

Crossy's son

nice job

Hows it pull with that spring in there? it should do well over 110 mph now

samiam4

How about giving us some BIG suggestions that will make my life easier when I do this next month.

M

TIMMY22

There is a front and rear port in the manifold. You have to drill in the center of the rear port. If you drill dead center of the manifold, you will be in the wrong spot.


I had printed the directions from a site that tells you 5/8" from here and 5/8" from center or something like that. Just can't find it now.