Screwed up spring install!!
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Carencro, LA (near Lafayette)
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you're bent on getting the screw out, Put a second nut on it, and jam the 2 nuts together, and use that like a bolt, same way you take a stud out.
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Claymont, Del and Horsham, PA
Posts: 1,830
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
No i didn't see the rest of it... yeah thanks brandon!!! I think the best thing will be buying the new one. Do you know if it comes with a new lock/retaining nut? This may be the best way if it comes with a new nut, i'll be able to weld the nut/bolt together and get the sucker out of there. if not i'll have to find one that fits, shouldn't be too difficult.
As you see in the picture the threads are buggered up going out of the pump, i can't get it to move. removing it will bugger up the remaining threads 1/2" and would require some work.
Thanks big stinky for the fish line idea. when i get that far again!
As you see in the picture the threads are buggered up going out of the pump, i can't get it to move. removing it will bugger up the remaining threads 1/2" and would require some work.
Thanks big stinky for the fish line idea. when i get that far again!
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Claymont, Del and Horsham, PA
Posts: 1,830
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Further down the road tuning will be a ***** because the assembly will be back on the pump.
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)
Posts: 7,547
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
you need to measure or write down how much threads are INSIDE the pump when the fuel screw is in near stock position,
or you may put the pump back together and it may run funny because the screw is too far out or it may runaway if its too far in.
I'd say just buy a new screw, and go to a hardware store and go to the metric section and buy a nut that works.
or you may put the pump back together and it may run funny because the screw is too far out or it may runaway if its too far in.
I'd say just buy a new screw, and go to a hardware store and go to the metric section and buy a nut that works.
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Claymont, Del and Horsham, PA
Posts: 1,830
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
GOT IT!!!
I did turn it in 1/2 turn before i had this problem, the jam nut didn't move much. I was able to find a metric nut and run the screw back in. Just before the nut touched the washers and tightened the jam nut 1/4 turn before it was snug to my liking.
How many threads are stock? I'll count them when i go back out and look for fishing wire
Looks like 5 or 6 in the picture, i think stock is 4.
I did turn it in 1/2 turn before i had this problem, the jam nut didn't move much. I was able to find a metric nut and run the screw back in. Just before the nut touched the washers and tightened the jam nut 1/4 turn before it was snug to my liking.
How many threads are stock? I'll count them when i go back out and look for fishing wire
Looks like 5 or 6 in the picture, i think stock is 4.
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 4,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Every pump is a little different so there is no stock thread count. You have to count the threads before you take it appart. Now it will be a guessing game.
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Claymont, Del and Horsham, PA
Posts: 1,830
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I should be safe where it is now. I double checked and it appears to have 5 threads showing. I saw 3 different pictures in other threads with the stock cap still intact with 4 threads showing. One turn on the fuel screw should be fine? or back it out 1/2 turn? A lot of threads talk about 1/2 turns until engine gets symptoms of runaway then back off 1/4-1/2 and fuel should be set.
I'm fresh out of fishing line :-/
I'm fresh out of fishing line :-/
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)
Posts: 7,547
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
The pump will almost never run away with just a 1/2 turn on the screw.
more worried about you hoppin' in it and being like OMG THIS POWER IS AWESOME!!!!!!! and melting a piston because the EGT's were so high because the fuel screw added so much fuel. LOL.
If you notice alot more WOT smoke all said and done, chances are the fuel screw is in past stock, just be careful till you get an EGT gauge.
And boy are you gonna be enjoying that spring
more worried about you hoppin' in it and being like OMG THIS POWER IS AWESOME!!!!!!! and melting a piston because the EGT's were so high because the fuel screw added so much fuel. LOL.
If you notice alot more WOT smoke all said and done, chances are the fuel screw is in past stock, just be careful till you get an EGT gauge.
And boy are you gonna be enjoying that spring
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Claymont, Del and Horsham, PA
Posts: 1,830
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Thanks for the re-assurance. I am looking for a smaller sting to use. One thing to keep my eye on. I just haven't bitten the bullet on the egt gauge. I will post another thread on that some other time. I'm also looking into the tach. the gauge pod i bought looks cheezy (points to the ceiling). I may put a temp 3-gang where your boost gauge is mounted.
The hunt is on for fishing wire/mousing wire.
The hunt is on for fishing wire/mousing wire.
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Claymont, Del and Horsham, PA
Posts: 1,830
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
let me begin by saying Thankyou! Really made a stressful situation bareable.
Brandon, i bought an autometer... they point right to the ceiling. thats for another thread.
Just got in from a test drive
It was worth the long, tedious, problem filled trip.
After adjusting the idle 3 or 4 times i got it to where it sounds a little bit lower than before, should get a tach on there some time soon.
With the power screw in a few turns... un sure how many, it was good for black smoke with a burp of the throttle. Under half throttle acceleration there was just barely a haze. At full throttle it was black, didn't stay in it because i didn't feel safe not being able to see the exhaust smoke clearly and with out a gauge i'd rather be safe than stuck on the side of the road with a rather heavy paper weight. Will need more adjusting.
1 set back is that my new wrench is stuck on the bottom nut, need to pull pump away from timing plate to get enough clearance to remove one way ratchet wrench.
Next is the killer dowel pin, i will tackle that next weekend. This will also give me a way to remove the stuck wrench
Somewhere in the middle i will definitely need to be removing the turbo. Inspecting the exhaust manifold and determining where to mount the pyro probe.
Propane is on hold, i can't find enough materials/parts locally to get a real grasp on making it a weekend project.
Again Thanks for all your help!!!! it really made the difference in turning a few mountains into mole hills. Giving me another way to look at a solution rather than the problem enabled me to fix it.
Brandon, i bought an autometer... they point right to the ceiling. thats for another thread.
Just got in from a test drive
It was worth the long, tedious, problem filled trip.
After adjusting the idle 3 or 4 times i got it to where it sounds a little bit lower than before, should get a tach on there some time soon.
With the power screw in a few turns... un sure how many, it was good for black smoke with a burp of the throttle. Under half throttle acceleration there was just barely a haze. At full throttle it was black, didn't stay in it because i didn't feel safe not being able to see the exhaust smoke clearly and with out a gauge i'd rather be safe than stuck on the side of the road with a rather heavy paper weight. Will need more adjusting.
1 set back is that my new wrench is stuck on the bottom nut, need to pull pump away from timing plate to get enough clearance to remove one way ratchet wrench.
Next is the killer dowel pin, i will tackle that next weekend. This will also give me a way to remove the stuck wrench
Somewhere in the middle i will definitely need to be removing the turbo. Inspecting the exhaust manifold and determining where to mount the pyro probe.
Propane is on hold, i can't find enough materials/parts locally to get a real grasp on making it a weekend project.
Again Thanks for all your help!!!! it really made the difference in turning a few mountains into mole hills. Giving me another way to look at a solution rather than the problem enabled me to fix it.
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Land of milk and honey.
Posts: 1,971
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I had printed the directions from a site that tells you 5/8" from here and 5/8" from center or something like that. Just can't find it now.