JustRamIt91

Well i think im in need of a new pump top. Couldn't get top re-installed, tried using screwdriver, string, wire. thought i had fuel lever in, started tightening down allen keys, felt too much resistance, so i removed housing. Tried to remove fuel screw so housing would fit nicely back on top of pump. Well fuel screw is stuck tight, tried turning screw back in when i felt too much resistance and she seized. Also the idle screw never came loose because of marred threads.

Let me know your thoughts.

I believe i have no more patients for this tonight.

Crossy's son

Theres a locknut holding the fuel screw, Did you loosen it?

I've done a few and never had to mess with the fuel screw to get the pump top back on,

Why do you think you need a new pump? Don't panic, the 3200 spring install is PITA and never goes right the 1st time. you will not need a new pump, trust me.

but for gods sake, don't lose the tophat

JustRamIt91

I'm not saying i need a new pump, im saying the "tophat' as you call it, has a marred up low idle screw that won't move out of the way of the allen key bolt to remove bolt from housing. Also the fuel screw won't move and its about 1/4" out from where it was set. I'm going to heat the aluminum housing in hopes i gets the clearance i need to screw fuel screw back to jam nut and tighten it and forget about that for now. Then i'll have to try and wire around the fuel lever again to get tophat back on.

bgilbert

This is why you remove the fuel screw prior to removing the pump top. Reinstall once you reinstall the pump top.

Crossy's son

The top hat is the peice that the gov. spring goes into. its spring loaded and can fly away if you're not careful. Just lettin' you know Nick.

I've never had mess with the low idle screw, I don't see why the threads would be screwed up.

JustRamIt91

Makes sence, saw it didn't need to be removed, plus it was covered nicely. Sticky skipped a few steps. Given i haven't worked on a pump before a few tricks i haven't learned can't help me now. I'm going to see what i can do, now that i have since calmed down a bit. I will go back out and tempt to remove both screws and clean the threads on both screw and tophat. There is an excess amount of metal that needs to be removed.

JustRamIt91

the threads were covered with paint or something, and it looks as if something small might have nicked 3 threads, i'm going to file the grove back in.

JustRamIt91

i cleaned the threads, all of them with the file and some break cleaner. Got the low idle screw down to the cross-drilled hole, bolt removed.

I'm stuck with the fuel screw... thinking i need to cut slot deeper to keep screw driver in and get more torque, screw driver popped out twice, in both directions! I saw a sliver of aluminum so the threads are probably messed up. Idk which way to go with it, im halfway out/in. I'm thinking back in, but that may have to much material in the path of the threads. So out marring up the housing threads may have to happen...This would require thread sealer, once i chase threads and clean screw then re-install it?

I think i'll take a break and get something to eat.

DNRCustoms

quit using the srewdriver for the fuel screw. use a 6mm socket, Might be 5mm!! but regardless. Also, take your time, it isn't one of those force together projects. If it don't fall back together. then you aren't doing it right. Also, no need for the torches. Unless you plan on resealing the pump!! Good luck... Just remeber to breathe!!

JustRamIt91

I thought about the propane bottle, but thought of all the rubber o-rings and how they wouldn't like it. I'll go back out and look at the screw again. didn't seem to look like a hex...humm... i think i decided that its coming out so i can clean the threads good.

Crossy's son

Only I/C trucks have the hex on the screw.

Nick's truck will NOT have the 6mm hex head fuel screw, its an early 91.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
,Nick the BOSCH part number for the fuel screw is 1 463 402 423

It will have no collar on it (limits how far it goes in), a 6mm hex head on the end, and it'll be a little longer for more tweaking

I think it'd be easier to fork up the $17 or so and get a new one, if the threads are buggered on your current...the threads are metric BTW

If you don't feel like driving to the nearby pump shop, here it is online for $17. http://www.thedieselstore.com/templa...OS1463402423++

big stinky

Non intercooled have flat head fuel screw. May I suggest using fishing line to pull the governor lever while putting the pump top back on?

JustRamIt91

yeah no hex-head... but here is what i have got.




Apologize for the crappy pictures.

if i make the slot deeper do you think i'd be able to remove it? Am i able to buy a new screw? if so i'd weld the nut to the screw and remove it that way, then chase the threads to clean it out. This is only speculation as of right now.

Fishing wire sounds to easy, can't possibly work!... although i know it probably will. Thanks

big stinky

If you damaged the threads pulling the collar off the fuel fuel screw you could have bunged up threads, and if they are in the pump top now, you might have fun. As long as you bring it out, and the bunged up threads didnt go too far into the pump top, you should be alright with a new screw, or chasing the threads. The fishing line thing is still a pita, but at least it bends around the governor lever nicely without binding up. I always found that easier than resetting the fuel screw. JMO.

Crossy's son

Nick, did you read my big long post?

I provided a link to a new fuel screw from BOSCH.

Or you could go to your local pump shop, i believe theres one in Allentown.