S Wrench
11-29-2009, 11:28 AM
#1
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S Wrench
i can't find the stupid s-wrench anywhere. Does anyone know where to buy one locally? Between Media, PA and Claymont, DEL
Everyone sells them online but i don't want to pay $10 shipping on a $3 wrench.
Thanks
Everyone sells them online but i don't want to pay $10 shipping on a $3 wrench.
Thanks
11-29-2009, 11:47 AM
#2
Hmm If you can't find the S wrenches the "C" obstruction wrenches will work as well. I've adjusted many VEs with mine.
11-29-2009, 11:49 AM
#3
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I got one from my Snap-On tool guy. Some off brand he ordered, it wasn't a Snap-On tool because the Snap-On S wrench from the Cummins tool page was around $40 if I remember right and this one was $4 and some odd cents.
I'm not sure if it was a company that he himself only goes through or if its a company that all Snap-On tool dealers can order from.
If you don't get any leads by Tuesday when I get back to work I can get you the name of the tool and the part number if you know of a snap on tool dealer you can get a hold of locally
I'm not sure if it was a company that he himself only goes through or if its a company that all Snap-On tool dealers can order from.
If you don't get any leads by Tuesday when I get back to work I can get you the name of the tool and the part number if you know of a snap on tool dealer you can get a hold of locally
11-29-2009, 12:06 PM
#4
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Harbor Freight is selling them again. $11 for the set, and well worth it. I find uses for the 15mm one all the time.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99699
I know there's a store in Sharon Hill, PA and I think there's one in Newark, DE too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99699
I know there's a store in Sharon Hill, PA and I think there's one in Newark, DE too.
11-29-2009, 12:08 PM
#5
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I got mine from Grainer. Cheap.
11-29-2009, 01:13 PM
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We got ours from harborfreight 
Your 91 is very familiar having an S-wrench under its hood Nick
I adjusted the timing several times until i got it to where my dad liked it..
Your 91 is very familiar having an S-wrench under its hood Nick
I adjusted the timing several times until i got it to where my dad liked it..
11-29-2009, 02:37 PM
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Well i got it..., took the top of the ve off...spring out. Now for all the adjustment screws i saw. I'm going to have to look into those.
Oh, i just got one of those craftsmen adj. neck wrenches... $84.53
I was able to loosen the nut, but now the wrench is too fat to remove, and i just cant get it off... 
Brandon, as for adjusting the timing, it was set to factory timing, the marks were perfectly matched.
But, i can't seem to move the pump, loosened three nuts against the gear cover, then the one that goes to the block. I also removed the lock screw.
Oh, i just got one of those craftsmen adj. neck wrenches... $84.53
I was able to loosen the nut, but now the wrench is too fat to remove, and i just cant get it off... Brandon, as for adjusting the timing, it was set to factory timing, the marks were perfectly matched.
But, i can't seem to move the pump, loosened three nuts against the gear cover, then the one that goes to the block. I also removed the lock screw.
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11-29-2009, 02:44 PM
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Well from the factory that truck had retarded timing...it was below the factory mark.
I took it to the point where it lined up (about 1/8" past where the factory had it)
As far as the pump not moving..
did you remove the boost line? goes from the cylinder head to the injection pump...unhook that from the pump head.
Did you use a ratchet strap? it really takes some force to move that thing....and then you gotta hold it there while you tighten it. or it'll spring back
I took it to the point where it lined up (about 1/8" past where the factory had it)
As far as the pump not moving..
did you remove the boost line? goes from the cylinder head to the injection pump...unhook that from the pump head.
Did you use a ratchet strap? it really takes some force to move that thing....and then you gotta hold it there while you tighten it. or it'll spring back
11-29-2009, 02:50 PM
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yeah that seems to be right, i was able to move it temporairly and it would spring back. I'm puttin the 3200 spring in, going to advance the timing just a hair adv. from factory. then i'd like to see how much fuel i can add before it starts to smoke(i don't want more attn than i get already).
I'm reading threads trying to find what each thing does, but its taking too long. The two booted screws, ones for fuel? the other is for? then theres the allen key adjust with a lock nut, i should just take a picture and use paint to point everything out.
I'm reading threads trying to find what each thing does, but its taking too long. The two booted screws, ones for fuel? the other is for? then theres the allen key adjust with a lock nut, i should just take a picture and use paint to point everything out.
11-29-2009, 04:18 PM
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If you don't want smoke.
Back that screw out on top of the pump, theres a shiny little cap covering it. i already (i painted the cap), slip a flathead into the back of the cap and pry it up.
Underneath will reveal a 13mm locknut with a torx head in the middle. This is known as the "smoke screw", When you turn it down it sets the "FUEL PIN" at a lower position on the ramp...so it makes it spool the turbo faster by adding more fuel before boost is even coming in pushing the fuel pin down....hence making smoke.
Its gonna be near impossible to make a Non i/c truck NOT smoke, if it has any kind of pump tweaks. Simply the nature of the beast.
With the chubby injectors in there stock, smoke is hard to get rid of. And if you add a dennyt pin down the road...forget about "no smoke"
Here's some pics i did for the sticky a long time ago....last two are "1stgen545"s pics
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...ownpics024.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...ownpics025.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...9/HPIM1801.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...HPIM1800-1.jpg
Back that screw out on top of the pump, theres a shiny little cap covering it. i already (i painted the cap), slip a flathead into the back of the cap and pry it up.
Underneath will reveal a 13mm locknut with a torx head in the middle. This is known as the "smoke screw", When you turn it down it sets the "FUEL PIN" at a lower position on the ramp...so it makes it spool the turbo faster by adding more fuel before boost is even coming in pushing the fuel pin down....hence making smoke.
Its gonna be near impossible to make a Non i/c truck NOT smoke, if it has any kind of pump tweaks. Simply the nature of the beast.
With the chubby injectors in there stock, smoke is hard to get rid of. And if you add a dennyt pin down the road...forget about "no smoke"
Here's some pics i did for the sticky a long time ago....last two are "1stgen545"s pics
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...ownpics024.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...ownpics025.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...9/HPIM1801.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...HPIM1800-1.jpg
11-29-2009, 04:22 PM
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yeah i will definitely mess with that later, its not the no smoke, i just don't want a cloud to billow out when im not trying to make one ;-)
11-29-2009, 04:24 PM
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Don't panic about the spring ordeal. If need be me and Dad will come up there and help you.
Thats reallly a bummer the idle screw threads are messed up and now the fuel screw won't turn, thats some bad luck. You were the 1st one to mess with any of that.
Thats reallly a bummer the idle screw threads are messed up and now the fuel screw won't turn, thats some bad luck. You were the 1st one to mess with any of that.
