Zoojock

Since this is my first post I have a 92 D-250 2wd generation 1

OK, I've read all the threads posted on the problems with RWAL and have not found any that discribe my problem. Maybe you can help.

The Amber Anti-Lock Warning light and the Red Parking Brake light stay on after start up. They both will shut off once a certain RMP is reached and stay off until you stop or are at idle again.

I have tried checking the codes as discribed in mutiple threads and do not get any. When I remove the connector to the RWAL computer controller to reset, the Parking Brake warning light remains on but will shut down once again when the RPM's are increased.

I have checked for vaccum leaks at the hoses and did not find one. But I believe this is a vaccum problem because of the fact that it goes away when the RPM's increase. Any suggestions?

EClancy

I was having the exact same problem with my brake lights on the dash, among other electrical problems. When i replaced my battery ground to frame, and battery ground to engine, and battery ground to body, all my electrical problems went away. Something to check into, its easy

ofcmarc

ZooJock- I have the exact same problem as you. Mine is more noticable when the outside temps are -20* or colder (Not noticable at temps above 0*). I am also suspecting a vacum leak but haven't found it yet. I may try to check out the vacum switch/sensor on the fender but I hear that the plactic nipple breaks easily so gotta be carfull. I may also look real hard at the booster. Could be a problem in there. I'd look harder for a fix but it is the middle of winter here and I have no garage.

If you figure it out, Post it!

flashgordon

Guys, i think that what your problem is, is a vac. leek that is setting the brake light, on.

on the drivers side fender, next to the fire wall is a round......thing
that has a vac line going into it and a elec connection coming out of it!

When the vac get to low the light is illuminated.

If the vac gets to low it will cause you brakes to be vary hard to apply(like stepping on a rock )

I don't remember the vac spec but i would look for a collapse hose or broken,cracked line............brake booster could be leaking allso. lissing under the dash when the eng is running for a hissing noise!

Zoojock

Thanks for the suggestions so far, will check all since I would like to get the problem solved before my next trip. Just traveled 3000 miles and was concerned the whole way.

Have not noticed any difference in the feel of the pedal. Still seems to respond the same way as in the past, but that doesn't mean it's not a small leak on the way to a bigger problem.

Anyother suggestions or solutions would be appreciated. Will try to look into it more this afternoon. Have to go to the DMV this morning and mindlessly stand in line for and hour or two.

Zoojock

HOLY CRAP! IT'S FIXED!

I may have found a solution to several problems that I've read on this board about the Brake Warning Light and RWAL Warning Light coming on and going off after increasing the RPM.

After much trial and error and testing the vaccum system. I followed the proceedure in the Hayes manual to check if the Power Booster was airtight. Pump the brake pedal several times with the engine running. Hold the pedal down and turn off the engine. If the pressure holds, the Power Booster is airtight according to this discription. Mine past the test. However I notice after I pumped the pedal several times and held the pedal down...after about 2-3 seconds the Brake/Anti-Lock Warning light went out even at low RPM (Idle).

Thinking it might be air in the lines I re-bled all the lines including the RWAL distribution (no air in the system) tried again. Still got the warning light until the RPM's increased or I pumped and held the brake.

Just for the hell of it I applied the emergency brake...pumped the brake pedal a couple of times and held it....WHALA! The Warning Light Went Off and Stayed Off!

Problem is solved. This must be some kind of reset that tells the computer that the brakes are engaged and the vaccum pressure that is being read is the correct pressure. At least that's what I think...who cares...it's fixed. I hope this helps others that are as stumped as I was about the On again Off again Warning Light problem. I'd love to hear if it works on yours.

james1

I know this is an old thread, but I'm having a similar problem.

When I use the brakes repeatedly in a short amount of time the brakes become difficult to operate (stiff pedal) and the two brake warning lights (red and amber) appear on the message center.

My guess is inadequate vacuum? I have a relatively new (not re-man) brake booster and master cylinder, a recently rebuilt vacuum pump, and a new 11/32" Gates vacuum hose.

What should I check next?

TIA.

maybe368

Put a vacuum gauge on it and see how many inches of water you are pulling. The warning lights are set to come on whenever vacuum drops to a certain point, I don't remember what it is. Then , if it is low, you can start to pin down that problem...Mark

wannadiesel

What he said, and make sure there are no leaks.

The low vacuum switch trips at 8.5".

whosdunit

When i apply my brakes should i be hearing a wooshing sound ? Also when i back up& apply the brakes( mostly while turningthe wheel) my engine pulls down. While waiting at the bank, with my foot on the brake, my trk., began to creep frwd. could be pump or booster???

autocar56

When it was cold you could hear a vacuum leak with the brake pedal push down, light would come on, rev the engine light would go off , finally replace the brake booster problem went away.

maybe368

I believe that the wooshing sound is a sign of a bad Master Cylinder...Mark

wannadiesel

Actually it's a bad booster.

maybe368

Thanks, my brain was thinking booster, but my hands were thinking MC. I'll have to punish them ...Mark