Reverse Rotion Steering Box
#1
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Reverse Rotion Steering Box
Anybody using it?
OK you dont know what it is.
Its in this tread---- https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d-t298009.html
I got me the Bracket off a truck down the street from me but the box is manual steering. Next I go to Napa they have both steering units (72-77))((78-93)but the steering shaft connection is different of each other.
If Someone is using this system how did you connect your steering? (under hood)
OK you dont know what it is.
Its in this tread---- https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d-t298009.html
I got me the Bracket off a truck down the street from me but the box is manual steering. Next I go to Napa they have both steering units (72-77))((78-93)but the steering shaft connection is different of each other.
If Someone is using this system how did you connect your steering? (under hood)
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Simplysmn
I understand why your saying crossover But I dont want a lift.
I've read https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t291427.html countless times.
Maybe if some outfit would sell a system that has a 500% money back guaranty that it fits first time.
I have owned a few 72-77 W100&W200s the steering in those trucks Is right on the money.
In fact I feel they out steered the fords and chevys.
International Harvester was the only thing close but then again they used the same steering
Jeep J4000 used a crossover but the box was inside the frame.
I understand why your saying crossover But I dont want a lift.
I've read https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t291427.html countless times.
Maybe if some outfit would sell a system that has a 500% money back guaranty that it fits first time.
I have owned a few 72-77 W100&W200s the steering in those trucks Is right on the money.
In fact I feel they out steered the fords and chevys.
International Harvester was the only thing close but then again they used the same steering
Jeep J4000 used a crossover but the box was inside the frame.
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You need to contact either Borgeson or Flaming River and order a custom double universal joint steering shaft. The upper connects directly to your steering shaft splines after you remove the flange. Double check to make sure yours is removable. The bottom universal joint at the box is a different spline. You need to measure and count the splines and substitute that universal joint for the standard one that normally comes in the double u-joint shaft. I'm not sure but I think the spline count is the same as a 1/2 ton GM pick up truck but measure to be sure.
#5
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I think you will find your answer here: http://cumminsramcharger.blogspot.co...blog-post.html
You need the shaft that goes from the column to the box from the 70s truck and install it rag joint down. Hope this helps, Eric
Edit: even though this is on a rc/cummins conversion, since the firewall and column are 90s and the steering box is 70s, I believe it is apples and apples to your issue.
You need the shaft that goes from the column to the box from the 70s truck and install it rag joint down. Hope this helps, Eric
Edit: even though this is on a rc/cummins conversion, since the firewall and column are 90s and the steering box is 70s, I believe it is apples and apples to your issue.
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Eric
That's tooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo easy..
I was looking at a 75 W200 with manual steering the shaft on that thing was totally different.
Now I've got to go back and see if that thing was a homebrew.
I also looked at a 61-68 IH it uses the same gearbox as the dodge. Its shaft looked more usable for me than that dodge.
Thank you
Bob
That's tooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo easy..
I was looking at a 75 W200 with manual steering the shaft on that thing was totally different.
Now I've got to go back and see if that thing was a homebrew.
I also looked at a 61-68 IH it uses the same gearbox as the dodge. Its shaft looked more usable for me than that dodge.
Thank you
Bob
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If you were to "homebrew" a shaft, it would have a rag joint at both ends. A couple pieces of scrap tubing/rod and some flat plate, you could have a shaft in a couple of hours.
If you were to "homebrew" a shaft, it would have a rag joint at both ends. A couple pieces of scrap tubing/rod and some flat plate, you could have a shaft in a couple of hours.
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#11
Just logged back into TDR and saw Mysteryman posted another Jem:
Mysteryman Wrote:
"The best plan is to use the rim and tire sizes that we put on the trucks at the factory!
wide low profile tire/rims that seem to be the fad these days tear up the trucks with road shock and excessive turning effort. The excessive turning effort torques the frame where the steering box mounts causing the frames to crack !!!! This is especially true on the 4wd's . If you must have wide tires on your 1st gen 4wd use the 1972 to 1976 steering gear , pitman arm and angle bracket. The earlier system put the torque on the frame length wise. The later 77-93 system used a 2wd box and the torque rotated the frame the other direction . It was a very stupid change from an engineering perspective. It was just done to save money. I also remember being very disappointed back in 72 when we first went to independent coil spring front suspension. That was done to make for a better ride and cut costs. 1971 and back all the 2wd trucks had I beam front axles and leaf springs.
In conclusion, We actually did have reasons for the size tires and rims we put on the trucks. The trucks will perform best over all with those sizes if the trucks are being used for what the were designed for.. Remember they are pickup trucks. Not bulldozers,dirt bikes,front end loaders,submarines,boats or airplanes. Besides that....serious offroaders don't use tires at all. They use steel tracks ! Like my IH TD9 track loader. And if it gets stuck it has a 30,000 LB winch on it to pull it out. By the way... I am currently putting a 6bt cummins in my TD9. I will post some pictures when it is done if anyone is interested..."
Mysteryman Wrote:
"The best plan is to use the rim and tire sizes that we put on the trucks at the factory!
wide low profile tire/rims that seem to be the fad these days tear up the trucks with road shock and excessive turning effort. The excessive turning effort torques the frame where the steering box mounts causing the frames to crack !!!! This is especially true on the 4wd's . If you must have wide tires on your 1st gen 4wd use the 1972 to 1976 steering gear , pitman arm and angle bracket. The earlier system put the torque on the frame length wise. The later 77-93 system used a 2wd box and the torque rotated the frame the other direction . It was a very stupid change from an engineering perspective. It was just done to save money. I also remember being very disappointed back in 72 when we first went to independent coil spring front suspension. That was done to make for a better ride and cut costs. 1971 and back all the 2wd trucks had I beam front axles and leaf springs.
In conclusion, We actually did have reasons for the size tires and rims we put on the trucks. The trucks will perform best over all with those sizes if the trucks are being used for what the were designed for.. Remember they are pickup trucks. Not bulldozers,dirt bikes,front end loaders,submarines,boats or airplanes. Besides that....serious offroaders don't use tires at all. They use steel tracks ! Like my IH TD9 track loader. And if it gets stuck it has a 30,000 LB winch on it to pull it out. By the way... I am currently putting a 6bt cummins in my TD9. I will post some pictures when it is done if anyone is interested..."
#13
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My dad bought my truck new and never took it offroad in his life -- and at about 40,000 miles the steering box mounting plate shattered into three pieces while he was driving on the interstate. I have no experience with either crossover steering or the reverse rotation steering gearbox, but I am absolutely certain that the mounting plate is a terrible idea.
#14
#15
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My opinion on the cross-over is that I wish I had saved my money on the kit. I do not find it any better than the old school box with the short drag link. I thought it would due to the short wheel base, 37" tires, and 5" lift. It did not. the most noticeable difference is that it takes about twice as much effort to turn the steering wheel. This is not all bad because the old seventies trucks are pinkie-steerers anyway. It could also be that I gave the wrong spring and valve in my power steering pump.
On my future conversions, and I am sure there will be more, I will be using the 1977 model.
My opine. Eric