replacing head gasket
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
replacing head gasket
I had this all typed out earlier but we lost power and wiped out everything.
Even the UPS.
Coolant is leaking from the gasket near the thermostat housing. So I will take advantage of the situation and replace the head bolts with ARP studs and go to 60# valve springs. the "Sticky" has a very nice write up with pix that will help along with the FSM. All the parts are in so now all I need is the time. Any guess on how long it should take? I have an engine hoist but will have minimal help.
Running 45# boost I am sure contributed to the early demise of the factory head gasket.
Even the UPS.
Coolant is leaking from the gasket near the thermostat housing. So I will take advantage of the situation and replace the head bolts with ARP studs and go to 60# valve springs. the "Sticky" has a very nice write up with pix that will help along with the FSM. All the parts are in so now all I need is the time. Any guess on how long it should take? I have an engine hoist but will have minimal help.
Running 45# boost I am sure contributed to the early demise of the factory head gasket.
#2
Registered User
I used the stickie and it covered everything well. Took the hood off and made it easy.
I went ahead and took the radiator out and had it cleaned so while the front end was open too I replaced the water pump, thermostat and the crankshaft seal. And killed the dowel pin.
I took my time and did it over several evenings and weekends so I can't say how many hours plus all the extra I did.
I did label every wire and hose so that went back quick and easy. That stickie was good.
I went ahead and took the radiator out and had it cleaned so while the front end was open too I replaced the water pump, thermostat and the crankshaft seal. And killed the dowel pin.
I took my time and did it over several evenings and weekends so I can't say how many hours plus all the extra I did.
I did label every wire and hose so that went back quick and easy. That stickie was good.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
New crankshaft seal is definitely a good idea. Radiator and water pump are new but I just don't think I have time to do the KDP. I will take a good hard look at that. This is my daily driver. Even though the work load will drop off after Labor day I still need it to get around. The reason I haven't been on the forum as much as in the past is I have found another career. Fireworks! The greatest show on earth. But that is another forum.
#4
Registered User
If your doing the crank seal, killing the KDP and tightening/thread locking the timing case bolts will take you an extra 30 minutes. Do it. You'll regret it later. I farted around about killing the KDP then i looked at a bunch of catastrophic KDP failure carnage pics and I did the job just as soon as parts arrived.
#5
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Thread Starter
You may have talked me into it. I can't do anything until after the Labor Day weekend anyway. Too much work to do. I still need to find a good set of taps for the studs and buy a crankshaft seal.
I replaced the upper king pin bushings yesterday. nice improvement as far as handling goes.
I replaced the upper king pin bushings yesterday. nice improvement as far as handling goes.
#7
Registered User
Can't say how long it will take you, I don't think I've ever done a head gasket on a 1st gen. I did put a piston in an '07 in about 10 hours and I did a short block in an '05 in about 16 hours or so.
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#8
One of the members on here just did his not too long ago in like 12 hours I believe. I could be mistaken. I'll text him and tell him to post his input.
#9
Registered User
I only skimmed the thread (at work right now), but don't forget you will need to machine the rocker pedestals due to stud clearance on the valve covers. Take your time, clean everything very well.
Rather then using an engine hoist, I used a 2x4 and ratchet strap (I also left the exhaust manifold on), laid the 2x4 across the fenders, strapped the head to it and tighten the strap to hover the head, and then called a buddy (bribed with beer) to help. He got one side, I got the other, 2x4 resting on shoulders, stand up, and walk out with it. It worked really well. Install was the same, lowered the head on with the ratchet strap.
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bigragu (09-01-2017)
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
The pedestal machining is also needed. Thankfully I have a real nice 1932 LeBlond Regal Super 12 set up in the garage. It should make short work of that
#11
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Thread Starter
One of these days soon I may get started. I ordered two plug and two bottom tpas for the studs last night. should be here tomorrow. I still need to order the front crank seal and the outer timing cover gasket.
#12
For the lovers of billet
Check out this fancy billet kdp tab. Made to work in all years timing cases, by flipping it either way to accommodate the "step" that's machined in some of the 12valve t-cases.
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MrFusion (09-06-2017)
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MAC702 (10-06-2017)
#14
However, the thought of the timing cover covering up that "bling", along with the unnecessary work, made me say NOT!
#15
Registered User
Did you decide to use studs?