Removing Timing Case Cover Proceedure
#1
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Removing Timing Case Cover Proceedure
Can someone give me a step by step for getting to the KDP? I need to tighten the internal case bolts really soon and I am choking on how to get started.....
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Mark,
I recently took on this project and it wasn't as difficult as I thought it was going to be. Remove the serp. belt and loosen the four bolts that hold the fan/pully bracket. This will allow the fan and shroud to be pulled out and give plenty of room to work. I placed a section of cardboard up against the radiator for fin protection. Next you have to remove the balancer, four bolts hold it to the crank shaft, which will allow the cover to come off(several bolts). My dowel pin seemed to be secure, but the case bolts were very loose. Removed and used red loctite-one under the gear is somewhat tough to reach. Bar the engine and you should be able to get it out through one of the gear holes. I also replaced the cover gasket and the crank seal. This was the only BS part of the job as RM Cummins sold me the wrong gasket and I had to stop in the middle of the job to exchange it. Took me two hours to remove and replace-minus the run to exchange the gasket. If you're careful you could probably re-use the gasket and seal, but I figured it was worth the 30-40$ to replace. If you do a search here for the KDP it should give you a link that describes the steps in detail.
I recently took on this project and it wasn't as difficult as I thought it was going to be. Remove the serp. belt and loosen the four bolts that hold the fan/pully bracket. This will allow the fan and shroud to be pulled out and give plenty of room to work. I placed a section of cardboard up against the radiator for fin protection. Next you have to remove the balancer, four bolts hold it to the crank shaft, which will allow the cover to come off(several bolts). My dowel pin seemed to be secure, but the case bolts were very loose. Removed and used red loctite-one under the gear is somewhat tough to reach. Bar the engine and you should be able to get it out through one of the gear holes. I also replaced the cover gasket and the crank seal. This was the only BS part of the job as RM Cummins sold me the wrong gasket and I had to stop in the middle of the job to exchange it. Took me two hours to remove and replace-minus the run to exchange the gasket. If you're careful you could probably re-use the gasket and seal, but I figured it was worth the 30-40$ to replace. If you do a search here for the KDP it should give you a link that describes the steps in detail.
#3
Registered User
I just did mine, and I used the kit from TST. You can download a PDF file of instructions there too.
http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=189
http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=189
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks, that really clears it up. I already bought the crank seal (a little nervous about getting it spaced right and not in backwards) but not the gasket. I was going to clean both sides really well and use a thin ribbon of ultra copper instead.
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#9
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#11
Registered User
My Cummins service manual doesn't say a thing about using a gasket there or between the timing housing and the block. It just mentions sealant.
Not that i wouldn't have used a gasket if I'd had one, but the nearest Cummins dealer is 90 miles away and my experience with the Dodge dealers in getting the oil cooler gaskets I needed wasn't impressive. It looks like Cummins, at least in the edition of the service manual that I just bought directly from Cummins, approves of sealant and no gasket there.
Not that i wouldn't have used a gasket if I'd had one, but the nearest Cummins dealer is 90 miles away and my experience with the Dodge dealers in getting the oil cooler gaskets I needed wasn't impressive. It looks like Cummins, at least in the edition of the service manual that I just bought directly from Cummins, approves of sealant and no gasket there.
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