Does anyone know if there is a kit that will convert my 93 to rear disc brakes?

If there is, are they worth the effort?

It's time for a 4 wheel brake job, and for once, I'd like to have brakes that actually STOP the truck!

chaikwa.

 

I believe NascarMark converted his over to 4 wheel disc brakes. You might try sending him a private message if he doesnt respond to this thread.

 

Mark has plans for a 250srw. Not any available that I know of for a drw

 

To put discs on the rear of a DRW, you would have to space the rotor way in. I don't know of any rotors that are set up for this, but it would seem that you could machine up a spacer, and then use an SRW kit. You could also put an electric or hydraulic retarder on your rear drive-shaft -- though I don't know where you would find one of those these days, but you do seem to like projects .

 

I like projects? ME??? I don't know what you're talkin' about!

Thanks for your replies everyone. Kinda looks like I'll be sticking with the rear drums for awhile.

chaikwa.

 

chaikwa;
This company is developing disc brakes for DRW 94's and up but I'm not so sure they couldn't be used on earlier rear ends. They supposed to go into production w/ them some time this year.

http://www.egrbrakes.com/index-main.htm
ramguy

 

There are posts on this site that talk about replacing the rear wheel cylinders with 1 ton wheels cyinders. Makes sence to me! The larger the piston the more pressure you'll get on the brake pads. I'd try this first before putting on rear discs.

 

I've heard this mentioned here and at other sites. I have a hard time believing this. Everyone says you are going to get higher pressure with the larger piston. That seems wrong to me. Your master cylinder is going to pump a finite volume of fluid for each stroke. If your cylinder diameter is now larger (1 1/8" in the case of the 1 ton cylinders vs. 1" for 3/4 ton), that finite volume of fluid is going to expand the wheel cylinder a smaller amount, consequently giving lower apply pressure to the brake shoes. it will also take greater pedal travel just to get to where you were before.

Can anyone change my thinking on this?

Carl

 

I hope so. The larger wheel cylinder requires slightly more master cylinder travel, but the wheel cylinder will apply more force. You aren't currently using all your master cylinder volume anyway - if you were the pedal would go to the floor.

 

The larger the slave cylinder diameter the more force you will have pushing on the brake pads. It is the law of hydrolics. I would try this way before I messed around with rotors. The cylinders cost $20 each and 45 mins. a wheel? I have read serveral posts from guys who swear by it, not at it. Give it a try before replacing the drums.

 

PSI=Pounds per square inch. So lets say that the master cylinders puts out 400psi(just a guess) to the line to the rear wheel cylinder. If the wheel cylinder has a total surface of 1 square inch then you are applying 400 pounds to your shoes. If the wheel cylinder has a total surface of 1.5square inches then you are applying 600 pounds to you brake shoes. The numbers are probably wrong on the inital pressure but thats basically how it works.

 

I had poor brakeing. Found out some one of the origional owners had installed narrow shoes that are used on light duty dodges. Our trucks are considered heavy duty. As I recall there was a 1/2 inch difference in the width. That makes a hell of a difference in stopping power. Also The front rotors are much thicker than the light duty trucks. So make sure you are getting parts that are set up for the CTD. There is a difference.