bigragu

Been reading the search sections regarding these areas and am almost confident on trying to tackle it myself, just need a couple of questions.
Most everyone agrees, on a 2 wheel drive automatic, that you only need to move the tranny back after unbolting and nothing needs to happen to the engine, correct? Do I need to drain the tranny in order to replace the rear main seal? Torque settings for when I button things up? How do I know my flexplate needs to be replaced? What else should I tackle/replace while I'm in there? Anyone got any pics so I know what to look for? Finally, I need part #'s for seal, flexplate (just in case) and whatever other misc. parts I might unexpectedley need. Oh yeah, most important, will common hand tools do the job? Please reply with all you know, 'cause I'm planning on tackling this in the very near future. Did I mention that I have a large oil leak dripping from in between the bell housing and the rear of engine? Carmyne

bigragu

Please advise on this subject...need help in a baaad way!!

apwatson50

Basic hand tools should do the job. As for draining the tranny fluid, when was the last time it was changed? I think that to move it back far enough to get the flexplate out and stuff you will need to unhook the tranny cooler lines so you might as well change it and the filter.

As for the flex plate you look for cracks in the center but I would just change it and update it with a 2nd gen style. Its much stronger. Your going to be in there anyways why take any chances? I believe I heard that the best place to get one would be directly from cummins, just ask for one from a 94 to 98 pick a year.

For the rear main seal we put one in my dads truck and it came from Carquest, it looked like a well made unit and hasn't leaked yet, the kit included everything including the install tool. Some people will say to only get a cummins brand but I think that one from any parts store will be just fine, IMHO. Its your truck though and its up to you.

Nuttymopar

I would suggest draining your tranny so it won't be so heavy. Plus when you slide off the TC, it will start running fluid all over the place.

To check, have you taken off the little shield underneath and checked to see if you can move the flex plate around?

Most common tools will work other then a possible BFH (Big F***ing Hammer) now and then. Tranny jack would help for the weight of it. Maybe not so bad, I'm thinking of when I did mine (4X4 and transfer case).

I haven't replaced a Rear Main seal but I have heard there is only one proper way to place back in (don't remember right now, sorry). I would do a search for that.

Being 2x4, I don't think it really should be that bad. 1/2 days work and you should be all set.

apwatson50

If you take the torque converter out with the tranny no fluid should run out, another thing would be to replace the pump seal on the front of the tranny, and drain the converter.

bigragu

Thanks for the advise, everyone. Now, is there a TC drain plug to drain the TC? So it sounds like on top of the Rear MS, the pump seal is advised to be changed also? Is this a requirement or a "might as well while your in there" kind of thing? I've got the 1993 shop manual...can't seem to locate the page for the shop procedure that some are talking about(c'mon, man, don't laugh!) Can someone chime in with a chapter and page number? Carmyne

wannadiesel

The Holy Book of D&W 150-350, chapter 9, verse 143.

The pump seal would be a "might as well change it while you're in there" kind of thing.

How 'bout a DTT converter while you have the trans out? Put some of that torque on the ground instead of into the radiator.

apwatson50

The pump seal is just a might as well while your in there, I don't have a FSM and the seal really shouldn't be more than $20. What procedures are you looking for? Unless its an aftermarket TC I don't believe there's a drain plug. But when you move the tranny back the TC will just slide off the front and the pump seal is right there.


He beat me to it.