Nuttymopar

Well, after having my rear end clunk and seem very loose. I decided to pull the rear cover.Besides all the gunk (1/2" thick) on the fill plug. The gears look like a total mess. The actual RING gear looks super, not a problem nor nick. I can't see the actual Pinion gear though from the back but I assume it looks good also. BUT, the 2 side gears and the little pinion gear inside the diff are totally shot. I mean, missing pieces of metal on the gear. I guess too many smoke shows really does take a toll on the old rear end. (226,000 original miles on rear end). So, my questions for the weekend are? Currently running 3.54 gears, don't want to change.

Is it easy to pull diff out. Book shows needing a Housing Seperator to pull diff out. I don't have any type of dial indicator so how about putting it back in? (just a back yard mechanic).

Easier to just find a complete rear end and replace the complete unit?(complete rear has been taken out to install lift kit so that is easy).

Should I just get a Limited Slip or Locker or something and replace just the diff? easy take out and bolt in deal or does it need to be adjusted also?

I don't know of any rear end shops in Vermont. Likely some someplace but nothing within 100 miles from what I have found out.

This is a daily driving truck and can only be down for a few days (wife needs her truck, 2 jobs to go to).

Any other thoughts or places I can get a good rear end that might be for sale. I do have a 5.9 motor that might be able to swap for?

Thanks and sorry for long post. Time to go take pictures as this is a beauty with all the damage in there and yet it still drives and burns rubber (not after seeing this though). Got to love these trucks, they keep going till it dies.

wannadiesel

If you don't replace the bearings you should be able to get the diff in and out after 226k without spreading the housing. I can't believe there's any preload left. Not sure where you're going to find new side and spider gears in the next couple of days, but good luck.

Dan Brooks

You won't need a case spreader, just use a couple pry bars to gently rock the case out. Have an extra set of hands there to catch it as it starts to move, and don't let anything vital (hands, feet, *********) get anywhere under it in case you can't stop it...it's HEAVY, and will hurt a bit if it drops on you.

Before you get started, use a pry bar to try and move the case side to side - if it moves you have no preload and too much backlash, which will require more than just pulling the carrier and repalacing the spiders. Setting backlash isn't hard - you just need a dial indicator and stand, and some way to get the bearings off the case to swap shims around, but if it's been run a while with too much backlash the odds are pretty good that the ring and pinion are shot. Mark the bearing caps left and right, top and bottom - they must be reinstalled the same way.

Changing the carrier to a limited slip or locker will require the backlash to be set - you have a better chance at winning the lottery than being able to just swap the shims over to the new carrier. It's not that hard to do, but it will require pulling the carrier and moving shims around a couple times - if you're lucky - or more.

Craig93

If you only have a couple of days, I would search for a replacement diff assy. I rebuilt my Dana 70 and I had to go back to the shop twice for shims and removing installing side bearings to get the right pre-load and backlash. With cleaning and removing and re-installing, checking wear patter etc...I took more than two days, but I wasn't in a hurry either. You will need a dial indicator as well as a couple other special tools to get it done right. I had a pinion yoke tool made at work to hold it while torquing to spec...280ftlbs I believe? Lots...oh and a 1/4 drive dial type torque wrench to measure pinion bearing pre-load. And lots of patience

Dan Brooks

As long as the ring and pinion aren't being changed the pinion preload doesn't need to be messed with, and the yoke doesn't have to come off. Setting pinion depth on a new set of gears will add lots of work and time to the project.

I regeared my front and rear axles for my Jeep over a three day weekend ,but the axles were on the bench and I had all the parts on hand before starting.

beecher

AH just weldem solid!!! LOL

Redleg

If you do alot of towing, I wouldn't go with a locking carrier. They create a lot of heat, lim slip cluches break down over time, requiring more frequent oil changes. They also need to be overhauled sooner than an open. Like they said, you'll need to pack a lunch getting it in square, and a drawer full of crush washers. If you swap axles, make sure you get one with the abs sensor.

jughead

i have never seen a dana 44 or larger that used a crush sleeve. rebuilt one or 2 in my 44 years as a tech.

Redleg

Well if the guy would get my replacement axle out from under the junker, I might know something like that. I haven't torn into mine to see what's going on yet, in case I have to move it. This is my 1st D70 in18 yrs of repairing whatever new or old piece of junk I'm driving. Missed a gaurd drill one weekend when my 86 chevy lost it's axle shaft while going down the road. Luckily nobody was coming the other way, and I was only doing about 30.

jughead

had that happen to me a few years back. road testing chevy tune up . axle wheel and drum past me going down the mountain. was a weird feeling.

Nuttymopar

Thanks for all the replies. In looking deeper into this. The current Ring gear looks perfect. Just the Spiders are a total mess. I took pictures so once I get them, I will post them. I may just be able to pull the spider gears without pulling the Carrier at all. ( I Hope).

One friend also mentioned he would weld them together and get real good posi out of it. I don't tow anything, just drive the truck daily. But I am afraid that if he welded what was there, the other spider gerars would fall apart within a few miles. On the gears that have the huge shaft through them (1" think), they are just floating around on it. When I put it in reverse, you can see it shift about 1" before engaging to go the opposite way.

Dan Brooks

A friend had a Lincoln locked rear in her Jeep - I could turn a semi around tighter than she could her short wheelbase Wrangler. A "Lincoln Locked" diff is fine for an off road or drag strip toy, but not for a daily driver. Besides driving like crap, you'll go through tires very quickly.

Alec

I have the same problem with my axle, though not as bad.

I don't know if you can get the pin for the spiders out without taking the ring gear off or not -- which would determine if you can replace the spiders with the carrier in the housing.

My axle seems to need new spiders, cross shaft, and side gear thrust washers . . . so I was concerned that the carrier itself would need to have its bearing surfaces re-surfaced. I ended up getting a new LS carrier, but haven't had time to put it in yet (partly because I don't have the tools to measure the backlash setting to transfer it to the new carrier).

Swapping a carrier and re-using your R&P is not too hard, if you have the right measuring tools.

I am curious as to what you end up doing -- if I had the tools I would offer to have you come down here, but I am still working on collecting them.

Good luck,

Alec

Nuttymopar

Where abouts do you live Alec. I grew up in Ashland/Framingham towns. I did contact Al at http://www.reiderracing.com/spidergear_kits.htm and he said that I would need to pull my Diff to change spider gears due to not being able to push the Shaft past the Ring Gear. But listening to him made me feel better as I won't need to adjust anything (back lash) after the fact if I only change those gears out. Price wasn't bad for a Spider Gear set, about $ 150 or less. I wish I could go with a LS unit, about $ 450 or so. Just no $$ for right now to spend on that. Dealer/******* wants $825 for a Spider gear kit.

wannadiesel

My '93 FSM shows that the diff has to come out. As long as you put any shims back where they were everything will run fine. I think I'm gonna pull my cover soon and look at mine, I've got some slack back there too. Was it the standard Dana 70 spider kit?