beater

Well Ive been driven my truck with no problems for the last week, it actually has been running pretty good then yesterday I'm driving down the road and it dies while cruising but starts right back up. Then today I start it up drives fine for awhile then it dies on me multiple times, it idles fine but I went to put it in gear and blah it dies, fires right back up go down the road about 100 foot then dies again takes a few to start it back up. the only light I got is a water in fuel light so I go to drain the fuel filter and a little comes out seems like its all fuel but shouldnt my fuel filter pour out dieselt when I press the tang in? cause it's only trickling out of it so could it be a fuel pump or lift pump and how do I check them?

dzl_damon

If it's running, it should come shooting out of there. If not, probably a dead Lift Pump.

FSS wire not loose is it??

beater

it is loose on the connection but still stays on if thats what u mean, I start the truck let it run then I pulled the fss wire of and the truck dies so it must not be too loose. Im guessing its the lift pump considering the fuel filter seems not to have alot of fuel in it. I know last time I bleed the fuel filter a steady stream of fuel came out now I get a little spurt and a few drips is all.

BearKiller

Just dribbling out of the water-drain is normal when the engine is not running.

It should really shoot out of there when running.

Your description does not describe the actions of a bad lift-pump; what does your fuel-pressure gauge show ??


Your description reads like intermittent power to the fuel shut-off solenoid.



On top of the solenoid is an 8MM nut, holding a double-blade terminal.

Clip off the female terminal that is on the solenoid wire.

Crimp, then solder, then heat-shrink a ring-terminal with a #10 hole in place of that terminal you just clipped off.

Put the ring-terminal under the 8MM nut.

If that doesn't cure the problem, let us know and I will tell you where next to look.

beater

I have 2 wires to the fss which one do I cut off and put a ring connector onto? I dont have a fuel pressure gauge so I have no clue what fuel pressure is.

BearKiller

BOTH OF THEM.


As soon as possible, get a fuel-pressure gauge hooked up; otherwise, you are in the dark as to the health of your fuel system.

dzl_damon

was your truck RUNNING when you were pressing the drain on the filter?

beater

Bearkiller thanks for the tip on that fix, I did it today and have had no issues since so Im guessing that was it.

BearKiller

Maybe it was that simple.


If it acts up anymore, keep us informed.

beater

I will, thanks again.

beater

Well my truck stalled on me again today and wouldnt start, so I jumped a wire from the FSS to the + terminal on the battery and it ran fine any ideas what would cause this? I already replaced the ignition switch so what else could it be?

BearKiller

Starting at the solenoid, where you now know there is no voltage, KEY = ON, test each connection of the solenoid wire, until you find the spot where you do have voltage, cleaning and protecting each connection as you go along.

Follow the solenoid wire toward the rear of the engine; you should find a "junction" where that wire splits off of another.

That connection is prone to corrossion and can cause mysterious no-starts and stalls.

Clean it up, probably cutting it away and re-making the connection, whether you find it to be the problem or not.


Another likely culprit is the big square "bulk-head" connector that is mounted on the fire-wall near the brake master; the little terminals inside erode away and many connections become intermittent, weak, or are lost completely.

There should be a write-up in the sticky on how someone bypassed the bulk-head and eliminated this problem.


Another likely source of your problem is at the fuse-links; there are a bunch of threads on various endeavors of eliminating the fuse-links and replacing them with fuses or breakers; I did this to the wife's truck and cured all of it's electrical issues.

BearKiller

Or, you could route this "jumper" wire through a toggle-switch and just turn it ON to run the engine and flip it OFF to kill.

ppiggppenn

That's what I did, and with a beefed-up circuit using a dedicated fuse and relay, I also use it to run my marker lights (my light switch melted ages ago and I run a trailer with lotsa lights on it) and electric fuel pump, along with supplying power to the trigger circuit for my electric rad fan relay. So when I flip it off, all that stuff is off too, ....