quick turbo/performance question
#1
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Thread Starter
quick turbo/performance question
So I have been driving my new to me 93 5-spd 3.54 geared CTD around and the truck just feels sluggish until you hit 40 mph then it pulls nicely to 65. Specs:
Full exhaust is still on, factory air filter, nothing fancy stock pump
The truck has the factory H1C on it, but I guess my question is what size exhaust housing will it have, because from all the searches it looks like it is a crap shoot (one thread says all 93/5spd had 12, another says 18.5, another says 21).
I had a 4wd same year and it just pulled better, so this has me stumped.
If it were your truck what would you do? (money is not tight, but I'm not rich)
Full exhaust is still on, factory air filter, nothing fancy stock pump
The truck has the factory H1C on it, but I guess my question is what size exhaust housing will it have, because from all the searches it looks like it is a crap shoot (one thread says all 93/5spd had 12, another says 18.5, another says 21).
I had a 4wd same year and it just pulled better, so this has me stumped.
If it were your truck what would you do? (money is not tight, but I'm not rich)
#2
Registered User
you definitely don't have a 12cm housing. 93's should've gone back to the 18.5cm housing. the 92's got the 21cm which was only for emissions regulations and they got plenty of low power complaints. which is the reason for the return of the 18.5's. however, you don't know what the PO or PI (previous idiot) had done to the truck prior. the housing size should be stamped on the back of the housing itself. what did your 4wd maybe have that this one doesn't?
#3
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well it was 4.10's so that makes a huge difference. PO on current truck was 85 yr. old man never messed with anything truck is virgin.
12 or 14 is the ticket then I take it, should wake it right up?
12 or 14 is the ticket then I take it, should wake it right up?
#4
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I just bought this,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=330354719285
Is this what I need, and for $110 did i do alright?
And from what I searched I can swap this HX35 housing right onto my H1C no impeller mods needed?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=330354719285
Is this what I need, and for $110 did i do alright?
And from what I searched I can swap this HX35 housing right onto my H1C no impeller mods needed?
#5
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On my 93 when I bought it the fuel pin was in the stock high side to the front location. But that wasn't the problem, the fuel pin was stuck and wouldn't move up or down. Worked it loose and cleaned it up and replaced to stock position. The truck came to life, then I moved it around to the low side to the front and it ran extremely good. A few days later when the DennyT pin came in I put it in and it ran way better, then run the fuel screw in till it bottomed out but not near to runaway and the ole truck will haul the mail now. Just that little bit made the truck a total different animal. The 93s had the 18.5 cm turbo housing. My 93 has 3:54s and are very good gears to run and play and very good to pull with also, 19 to 21 mpg is the fuel mileage when driving like your supposed to setup like it is.
#6
Registered User
Yes, that turbine housing will bolt on. I would say you got a good deal, since that actuator is almost $200 for a new one.
I would soak the housing and bolts with WD-40 at least 12 hours before you tear down. The housing is kind of a tight fit. Just evenly tap it off with a hammer. You might have to beat on it a little. Just check that the shaft will still turn. If it starts to get crooked on there the shaft will bind. Also make a reference mark so you know how the line the new one up, so the oil lines will fit. Basically one of the bolts will be right in the way of the oil inlet fitting.
Like rollincoal said the fuel pin might be stuck from the old man.
Might want to get a pyro before you crank it up too far.
I would soak the housing and bolts with WD-40 at least 12 hours before you tear down. The housing is kind of a tight fit. Just evenly tap it off with a hammer. You might have to beat on it a little. Just check that the shaft will still turn. If it starts to get crooked on there the shaft will bind. Also make a reference mark so you know how the line the new one up, so the oil lines will fit. Basically one of the bolts will be right in the way of the oil inlet fitting.
Like rollincoal said the fuel pin might be stuck from the old man.
Might want to get a pyro before you crank it up too far.
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#8
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#10
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if you have enough fuel to spin the turbo fast enough and you start barking it, you'll need an upgraded housing with MWE (map width enhancement) slots in it. barking is the turbine shaft actually slowing down and trying to spin the opposite direction just fast enough to twist apart from the sudden cut off of fuel. the compressed air has nowhere else to go but backwards. probably more prone in a manual truck when accelerating hard and trying to shift fast. look into a compressor upgrade from GDS. new 60mm wheel and a compressor housing with MWE slots. about $250 for the setup. well worth the money. i'm waiting to do the same on mine.
#11
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#12
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#15
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If it's a play truck don't even worry about the surge. If it's a working truck (or it just annoys you and you want the turbo to whistle really loud) get an upgraded compressor kit. You will wind up with a better turbo than a stock HX-35 that way.