Quick Drain Oil Plugs
#16
#17
Registered User
someone at the trucking show was demonstrating the kind that requires a seperate drain-hose that must be threaded into the portion that remains in the oil-pan.
When I was looking into it, the two-part hose type valves were selling for around $75, while the FUMOTOs were about $25.
When I was looking into it, the two-part hose type valves were selling for around $75, while the FUMOTOs were about $25.
I've got the EZ Change drain plug http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....Z-DP-22MMPL-DG.
That is the two-part hose deal that I was referring to.
Both types have their advantages and either one is way ahead of the old drain-plug.
#18
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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Thanks for the timeliness of this discussion gentlemen!
The ODO just tripped "oil change" time and while I don't mind getting oily to the armpits & dumping 50# bags of cat litter on the spills... the thought of this being the last time for those escapades does have it appeal!
Any tricks to eliminate the mess accompanying the oil filter swap?
The ODO just tripped "oil change" time and while I don't mind getting oily to the armpits & dumping 50# bags of cat litter on the spills... the thought of this being the last time for those escapades does have it appeal!
Any tricks to eliminate the mess accompanying the oil filter swap?
#19
Administrator
Has anyone here ever worked on any of the MEP military gensets? Most of the ones I have seen including the one I have recently sold have a valve on the engine side at the oil pan and there is a short section of hose about 18" long.
To drain the oil you unfasten the end of the hose from the frame, put the end where you want the oil to go and open the valve.
When you are done you close the valve screw the plug back into the end of the hose then bring it back up to the frame and secure it.
There are 2 safeties, one is the valve and second is the plug in the end of the hose.
The one from Genos looks real fragile; it looks like the only thing that holds the oil in your engine is the o-ring at the end of the valve and a finger tight cap.
Maybe there is something I am not seeing but I would not feel secure.
Jim
To drain the oil you unfasten the end of the hose from the frame, put the end where you want the oil to go and open the valve.
When you are done you close the valve screw the plug back into the end of the hose then bring it back up to the frame and secure it.
There are 2 safeties, one is the valve and second is the plug in the end of the hose.
The one from Genos looks real fragile; it looks like the only thing that holds the oil in your engine is the o-ring at the end of the valve and a finger tight cap.
Maybe there is something I am not seeing but I would not feel secure.
Jim
#20
Registered User
When they were demonstrating the one that requires a hose, which is the one to which I think you are referring, they had an engine replacement gaurantee, in the event the drain should ever fail and mess up an engine; they claimed that after many thousands of these sold, they had yet to have a complaint.
On that note, our shop is in a very busy intersection, especially for such a little one-light town, and you would not believe the drain-plugs that I find at the edge of the highway; big ones, little ones, all sizes from all kinds of vehicles, it makes me wonder what happened to the engines that have lost them.
I probably find one every 90 days.
#21
Registered User
We just talked about this a couple days ago.
I can't take credit for the idea.
Loosen the filter, then slip a plastic-bag over the filter, two bags if they are not very sturdy.
Spin the filter off and the mess will be contained inside the bag, IF you keep the filter up-right as much as possible.
Someone suggested bread-bags as being the ideal size for this job.
I can't take credit for the idea.
Loosen the filter, then slip a plastic-bag over the filter, two bags if they are not very sturdy.
Spin the filter off and the mess will be contained inside the bag, IF you keep the filter up-right as much as possible.
Someone suggested bread-bags as being the ideal size for this job.
#22
Registered User
It looks like FUMOTO has changed their name.
Have a look :
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/
and here is more info on the other type:
http://www.uniquetruck.com/Quick_Cha...FQ2DIgodry-o6A
and here is a good description :
http://hometown.aol.com/qckchanger/
Have a look :
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/
and here is more info on the other type:
http://www.uniquetruck.com/Quick_Cha...FQ2DIgodry-o6A
and here is a good description :
http://hometown.aol.com/qckchanger/
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well it seems i got something started! After i read most of everyone's posts i decided to go with the FUMOTO from Schied. It was 22.95 + 5.and some change for shipping USPS. I based my decision on the fact FUMOTO uses a ball **** instead of a spring loaded valve/o'ring seal mechanism. I'm not saying the others aren't as good as FUMOTO (and the fact i'd loose the drain hose) . I ordered the one without nipple and when i get it i'll see how it works. The drains have part numbers specific for the model years of our trucks. Thanks for all the information. Ya'all are a wealth of information....Augie Dog
#25
Registered User
The design of the pans themselves are such that not all oil can drain out.
The ones that I have seen off have a nut-like deal attached/welded inside the pan for the plug to screw into.
I don't think the stem on any of these valves is going to protrude any farther than that.
To see for yourself, when you have the drain-plug out, stick your finger (or some other scientific measuring device) in the hole and gauge how deep the threads go.
#26
Has anyone here ever worked on any of the MEP military gensets? Most of the ones I have seen including the one I have recently sold have a valve on the engine side at the oil pan and there is a short section of hose about 18" long.
To drain the oil you unfasten the end of the hose from the frame, put the end where you want the oil to go and open the valve.
When you are done you close the valve screw the plug back into the end of the hose then bring it back up to the frame and secure it.
There are 2 safeties, one is the valve and second is the plug in the end of the hose.
The one from Genos looks real fragile; it looks like the only thing that holds the oil in your engine is the o-ring at the end of the valve and a finger tight cap.
Maybe there is something I am not seeing but I would not feel secure.
Jim
To drain the oil you unfasten the end of the hose from the frame, put the end where you want the oil to go and open the valve.
When you are done you close the valve screw the plug back into the end of the hose then bring it back up to the frame and secure it.
There are 2 safeties, one is the valve and second is the plug in the end of the hose.
The one from Genos looks real fragile; it looks like the only thing that holds the oil in your engine is the o-ring at the end of the valve and a finger tight cap.
Maybe there is something I am not seeing but I would not feel secure.
Jim
#27
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I've been useing a fumoto for a year at least. zero problems. the double lock lever on the drain just won't pop open on its own. no spills no mess running up the armpit.......
#28
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The design of the pans themselves are such that not all oil can drain out.
The ones that I have seen off have a nut-like deal attached/welded inside the pan for the plug to screw into.
I don't think the stem on any of these valves is going to protrude any farther than that.
The ones that I have seen off have a nut-like deal attached/welded inside the pan for the plug to screw into.
I don't think the stem on any of these valves is going to protrude any farther than that.
ahh, i see. sounds good! can't wait to get mine and use it for the first time!
#30
Administrator
Unless you were running a Murphy Switch that would shut down your engine with the loss of oil pressure I would think that by the time you would have noticed that you had no oil left in your engine the damage would be catastrophic especially under load at least the main bearings and maybe crank scuffed.
I have never had any luck with a warranty that says they will replace something if it is damaged by their product. In the aftermath they always seem to get out of it by stating something like I was supposed to have inspected by their authorized dealer after installation. Or state operator error.
If they do honor the warranty will they give you a new engine or just try to patch it back together? Wouldn’t have much of a choice with our older ones but newer ones would be quite expensive..
Even if you were able to keep your hands clean draining the oil you still need to remove the oil filter and it is almost an unwritten law that it will slip out of your hands and drop into the drain pan splashing hot black oil everywhere.
I am not saying these things are good, bad or whatever I just would not trust it on my truck.
Maybe I would feel better if the device was drilled to accept a safety wire.
Quote:
On that note, our shop is in a very busy intersection, especially for such a little one-light town, and you would not believe the drain-plugs that I find at the edge of the highway; big ones, little ones, all sizes from all kinds of vehicles, it makes me wonder what happened to the engines that have lost them.
That amazes me too, take a walk along the side of the freeway onramps sometimes and look at all of the important car parts you can find in the bushes.
Some people should not be allowed to touch anything mechanical on their car after seeing the things I have had to repair for them. I had a friend who had me rebuild his carburetor for him after he couldn’t figure how to get it all of the way off; he somehow drove it over with all of the studs out and being held on with the muck.
Jim
I have never had any luck with a warranty that says they will replace something if it is damaged by their product. In the aftermath they always seem to get out of it by stating something like I was supposed to have inspected by their authorized dealer after installation. Or state operator error.
If they do honor the warranty will they give you a new engine or just try to patch it back together? Wouldn’t have much of a choice with our older ones but newer ones would be quite expensive..
Even if you were able to keep your hands clean draining the oil you still need to remove the oil filter and it is almost an unwritten law that it will slip out of your hands and drop into the drain pan splashing hot black oil everywhere.
I am not saying these things are good, bad or whatever I just would not trust it on my truck.
Maybe I would feel better if the device was drilled to accept a safety wire.
Quote:
On that note, our shop is in a very busy intersection, especially for such a little one-light town, and you would not believe the drain-plugs that I find at the edge of the highway; big ones, little ones, all sizes from all kinds of vehicles, it makes me wonder what happened to the engines that have lost them.
That amazes me too, take a walk along the side of the freeway onramps sometimes and look at all of the important car parts you can find in the bushes.
Some people should not be allowed to touch anything mechanical on their car after seeing the things I have had to repair for them. I had a friend who had me rebuild his carburetor for him after he couldn’t figure how to get it all of the way off; he somehow drove it over with all of the studs out and being held on with the muck.
Jim