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pyro in, a few questions

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Old 07-22-2006, 06:45 PM
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pyro in, a few questions

Well I finally put the Z-series pyro in after reading EVERY thread on this topic, so I know it is done right. Took 'er for a spin up a long hill on the highway after she was warmed up. Foot to the floor (4.10 gears, linkage adjusted) I saw 1,000- 1,025 max unlaoded. This is after I have turned the starwheel down 2 turns, stock pin set to max, smoke screw in 2 turns, and full fuel screw in about 1 turn (collar removed).
Around town, temps are 4-5k (max), cruising on the highway, 6-7K (at 70-75mph). This seems like a low temp reading to me. Do I need to crank on the full fuel screw a bit, or do I need to go to a smaller 16cm housing? (I still have the stock 21cm on her) .
Also, I don't know what I was expecting from the guage needle, but it takes a few seconds to move. Is this normal? Or should it jump like a tach on a motor (I reckon not.)
I got "semi-stock" 3 inch exhaust, but have a freebie set of 5" mitre-cut stacks waiting for me to pick up. This should drop temps even more.... Can I really add that much fuel/power without a runaway (given my EGT temps)? Stock injectors, 91.5, so I got the intercooler, and I am running an air intake that uses 4" pipe and 2 45* elbows with the BHAF.
Sorry for the long post, but I wanna know what I can get from my baby. Thanks all, Jeff.
Old 07-22-2006, 07:35 PM
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Well, it's my understanding that you never want to see a sustained temp reading over 1200º, or you will cook the turbo.
Keep in mind too, if you spin up to a higher rpm, the temps will go down. Low rpm lugging will create very bad EGT readings.
Old 07-22-2006, 08:29 PM
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The full power readings sound normal for a stocker. More fuel wouldn't be a bad thing, just watch the EGT at low RPM.

The cruise temps are normal for any truck.

Trucks that are lightly fueled don't whip the pyro around, it moves gently. On mine, the pyro moves faster than the tach.
Old 07-22-2006, 08:38 PM
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I wish I could keep my power and get my pyro readings down to your levels.

My needle climbs rapidly, sometimes to 1500+; when it does this, I back off and bring it down to around 1300, or so.

I have 3" down-pipe to just behind the transmission, then 4" square(bigger than round) that "Y's" to twin 4" stacks.

I am not entirely sure that my pyro is completely accurate; but, I am afraid to assume that it isn't.
Old 07-22-2006, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by wannadiesel
Trucks that are lightly fueled don't whip the pyro around, it moves gently. On mine, the pyro moves faster than the tach.
I didn't even know the thermocouple could register that fast...
Old 07-22-2006, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Begle1
I didn't even know the thermocouple could register that fast...
You have to remember that some of us have enough fuel to bury a 1500 or 1600 degree gauge, including me, so the temp is probably 1800 or better to whip one around that fast.
Old 07-22-2006, 11:55 PM
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Thanks for all the help guys. Just to reassure me, how many turns should the probe fitting be screwed into the manifold? I am not sure if mine is in far enough. I have heard that the Autometer probe is very long, and I should only tap and insert the fitting in far enough to get a good bite on the threads. Let me know so I'm not worrying about nothing. Thanks again, Jeff.
Old 07-23-2006, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by triton0708
Thanks for all the help guys. Just to reassure me, how many turns should the probe fitting be screwed into the manifold? I am not sure if mine is in far enough. I have heard that the Autometer probe is very long, and I should only tap and insert the fitting in far enough to get a good bite on the threads. Let me know so I'm not worrying about nothing. Thanks again, Jeff.

Mines a diff brand but, i just tapped the hole deep enough so that you could turn the adaper into the thread one turn, with you hand, and then installed it with a wrench!
You don't have to tighten it that much the brass will seal nicely. a couple 3 turns down will hold and seal but a fue more turns down wouldn't be no problem eather!
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