Pump timing issues... still, any way to find tdc on the pump?
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Pump timing issues... still, any way to find tdc on the pump?
Well we got around to workin on my buddy's 90 again since it was a little warmer today. Since I did my KDP and jumped my gear a tooth last week on my truck I told him we could pull the front cover on his truck to see what was goin on with it and why it won't run with a new pump. (may remember some of my threads a while back) So today we pulled his front cover to check his gear and the gears were right where they should be and we tabbed the kdp and loctited the case bolts. The mark on the cam gear was lined up with the "E" on the pump gear.
Last time we worked on it like this we got it to barely run and it would blow white smoke like crazy and was barely running. So we wondered if the pump was one full turn out. So we turned the pump shaft one full turn and put the gear back on one tooth advanced so it was lined up with "C". I put a new fuel heater O-ring in it and we unhooked the fuel line at the lift pump and put a line in a fuel bucket right by it to suck fresh fuel. We bled injectors and then it fired right up without ether but it did the same thing as before and blew white/gray smoke like crazy. It seemed to run a little smoother than last time and it would at least idle so I tried to mess with the throttle linkage and then it acted like it was trying to runaway so we shut it down.
We then backed the fuel screw out a turn and a half and retarded the timing and rotated the pump down and then we couldn't get it to run again. We were then gonna rotate the pump all the way to the head and try it but it got too late. But where its advanced a tooth then it should run with the pump retarded right? This thing has had me stumped but we know its the timing somehow, but I'm not sure if its too retarded or too advanced. We've tried about everything else but its gotta be the timing, but yet I don't get why it was trying to runaway. We were thinking about rotating the pump a whole turn again and seeing what it would do. What we need to know is if there is anyway you can set the pump back to TDC or where it should be? I have another friend that told me that the pump will lock with the lock screw at only TDC and that it has a slot in the shaft right there? I wasn't too sure about this and thought I'd ask you guys. If we could get the motor to TDC and then get the pump to TDC and start it all over then it should run. But how do we find that? I'm wondering if the pump timing is off and you have to take it to a pump shop to have it set right? Any Ideas or advice is appreciated. Thanks again.
Last time we worked on it like this we got it to barely run and it would blow white smoke like crazy and was barely running. So we wondered if the pump was one full turn out. So we turned the pump shaft one full turn and put the gear back on one tooth advanced so it was lined up with "C". I put a new fuel heater O-ring in it and we unhooked the fuel line at the lift pump and put a line in a fuel bucket right by it to suck fresh fuel. We bled injectors and then it fired right up without ether but it did the same thing as before and blew white/gray smoke like crazy. It seemed to run a little smoother than last time and it would at least idle so I tried to mess with the throttle linkage and then it acted like it was trying to runaway so we shut it down.
We then backed the fuel screw out a turn and a half and retarded the timing and rotated the pump down and then we couldn't get it to run again. We were then gonna rotate the pump all the way to the head and try it but it got too late. But where its advanced a tooth then it should run with the pump retarded right? This thing has had me stumped but we know its the timing somehow, but I'm not sure if its too retarded or too advanced. We've tried about everything else but its gotta be the timing, but yet I don't get why it was trying to runaway. We were thinking about rotating the pump a whole turn again and seeing what it would do. What we need to know is if there is anyway you can set the pump back to TDC or where it should be? I have another friend that told me that the pump will lock with the lock screw at only TDC and that it has a slot in the shaft right there? I wasn't too sure about this and thought I'd ask you guys. If we could get the motor to TDC and then get the pump to TDC and start it all over then it should run. But how do we find that? I'm wondering if the pump timing is off and you have to take it to a pump shop to have it set right? Any Ideas or advice is appreciated. Thanks again.
#2
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The pump turns twice for every one turn of the crank, so there is really no TDC, or specific timing for the IP. You turn the pump and re-installing really has no effect on it.
Did you ever try moving your throttle plate position one mark up or down? I know when I was trying to get my truck to fire with the first re-sealed IP I had some luck messing with the throttle position.
As for the locking screw, it is just a rounded head that pushes against the main shaft. There is no special place to lock it down at. I noticed on both my IP's that there was a little "dash" on the front of the pump, below the main seal and at about 5:30?
I set my timing on the motor to TDC and then locked the pump at that point and every time I did this the woodruff key was lined up with this mark.
Did you ever try moving your throttle plate position one mark up or down? I know when I was trying to get my truck to fire with the first re-sealed IP I had some luck messing with the throttle position.
As for the locking screw, it is just a rounded head that pushes against the main shaft. There is no special place to lock it down at. I noticed on both my IP's that there was a little "dash" on the front of the pump, below the main seal and at about 5:30?
I set my timing on the motor to TDC and then locked the pump at that point and every time I did this the woodruff key was lined up with this mark.
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Yes so the pump could be 360* off right? Even though we tried that, maybe we need to do it again. I messed a little with the throttle indexing and didn't seem to make a difference.
#4
The pump can't be 180or 360 out. The key puts it correct. Now, if the pump that was on the truck is the same one you are putting back on ( and ) the timing marks were lined up, then it should go right back on the way it came off. You then line the marks back up and it will be the exact same timing as when it was removed. ( that is how I understand things, but have never done one myself ) If I am wrong atleast the thread will get some more input.
#5
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The pump can't be 180or 360 out. The key puts it correct. Now, if the pump that was on the truck is the same one you are putting back on ( and ) the timing marks were lined up, then it should go right back on the way it came off. You then line the marks back up and it will be the exact same timing as when it was removed. ( that is how I understand things, but have never done one myself ) If I am wrong atleast the thread will get some more input.
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Also, the woodruff key was in the 6 o'clock position at tdc, kind of a PITA...Mark
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well this is a used pump we bought that is off another truck. And I've heard as long as the pump slides in the key then its fine from there but this thing just won't run right, I don't get it.
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#9
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Maybe a stupid question , but was the truck you got it from running alright? Mark
#10
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Your pump does not need to be timed..period! As long as the key way lines up with the gear it's good to go. And as long as your gears are lined up then it should all be basically to factory settings.
I personally would put your timing gear back to the "E" and get things running right first before you start messing with the timing. There is a reason it is not firing, and putting the timing way up like that isn't the solution, in my opinion anyways.
I personally would put your timing gear back to the "E" and get things running right first before you start messing with the timing. There is a reason it is not firing, and putting the timing way up like that isn't the solution, in my opinion anyways.
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Yes this pump dynoed 360+ horse on crewcabxlts truck. The pump is good im sure. Im sure if I put it on my truck it would fire right up I bet. Alright we'll mess with it more tomorrow and put the pump gear back to stock
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Are you rotating the engine in the proper direction of rotation? Had that problem before on a p pumped truck, easy mistake. Did the same thing your talking about, white smoke and not running worth a chit. Was on the wrong side of the cam the whole time, rotated it clockwise, re-timed the pump, and all was good.
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Are you rotating the engine in the proper direction of rotation? Had that problem before on a p pumped truck, easy mistake. Did the same thing your talking about, white smoke and not running worth a chit. Was on the wrong side of the cam the whole time, rotated it clockwise, re-timed the pump, and all was good.
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Yes I looked at the key holding the crank gear on and it was fine and lined up where it should be. I've seen the other thread on here with it moved over a bit.