G1625S

Well, I went and looked at a potentially new truck today and it was junk The salesperson misinformed me through internet contact DESPITE the very specific questions I asked about the truck. I mean, SPECIFIC, SIMPLE questions. If I had asked if the truck were black and he said 'no, it's white' I would have showed up to see a dark blue truck. I don't know how these fools sleep at night. Ok, rant over

So, now I'm stuck with old moldy and I'm thinking about rebuilding the pump myself. Given the fact that it will start and run, do I still need a new plunger and barrel? Is there a master kit with small parts and whatnot? Is it even worth it to try? I'm waaay short on cash right now, so if it seems feaseable, I'm going to give it a shot. Opinions, part numbers, sage advice, slap to the face for even thinking--lets have it!

greg

LOGAN

my local diesel shop charges between 250 and 350 to do a full rebuild, its worth it to me to pay them to do it, less of a head ache, i know money is tight but sometimes its just easier to pay someone

G1625S

Hmmm, I'll have to stop and see what they get tomorrow morning. I was figuring on 5 bills at least. I could swing 3 or so...and would just to eliminate the 'me' variable

LOGAN

my local shop is Woodruff Diesel, he has done a bunch of them, cause he does alot of construction equipment and he says after you do several they are easy.

G1625S

Ok, got to talk to the actual pump guy today and he was pretty cool. He said if it still runs it's likely that the return springs are fragged but that everything else is ok. Fast forward to right now...pump is in a gazillion (or so) pieces. Return springs are fine. No carnage anywhere that I can see. I'm gonna finish the teardown tomorrow, clean, inspect and reassemble....and maybe do a little fussing with the timing piston Worst thing that can happen is it'll still run like crap and I'll only be out 20 bucks in seals and half a days time. I WILL pull the tank and flush it and inspect the pickup and replace it with something fitting of a thirsty VE and, what the heck, I might just buy a p-7100 lift pump and put a 15psi regulator right after the filter--hey, it's only money, right?

PapeCAT

hey! While its out I'd highly recommend replacing those work hardened return springs because if they haven't fragged, THEY WILL
lol

JD730

2nd that, had it happen to one of my trucks and I bought another truck cheap because of that.

G1625S

Even if the pump is only 2 years old? I talked to the guy that actually built the pump and he says he tears down every pump and replaces ALL the hard parts no matter what, so they can sell it as a new pump. I guess I could throw them in. He says the 366 spring is harder on them, but that stiffer return springs just wear the cam even more...

PapeCAT

well no not if there are new springs in there only 2 years old lol... I assumed you had an original pump because it is already crapping out? either way, the point is while rebuilding pumps with over 200K miles even if the springs are within acceptable limits it is a good idea to replace them with new as a rule of thumb because of work hardening.

G1625S

Well, this pump only has 40k on it. I was chalking the 'failure' up to mixing WVO with my fuel. Now I'm not sure what is going on. The pump looks like a million bucks inside...everything is spotless, barely even a witness mark to be found....anyway, I'm going to look a lot closer at my fuel system in the next few days and probably sink some $$ into that. Meanwhile, the trusses for my house will be here on Thursday, so I'm back on the clock with that project...when it rains it pours On a side note, the pump is far easier to dissect than the BOSCH manual implies and it's pretty fun to do. Of course, I should just keep my yapper shut untill it runs again. Sure wish I had a 14mm head and plunger to slip in there, hehe