project 1993 w250 dream truck
12-21-2009, 09:34 PM
#16
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Hit me up if you have any questions on the shackles or anything. I would definatly do longer springs if I had them. 13" is really big. I hope your planning on a divorced case or a doubler or something. Beacuse the stock setup will not work for the front drive shaft. I have 13" on my pwr wagon on 44". Its big!!
12-22-2009, 12:49 AM
#17
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Thread Starter
thanks DNR i am thinking a divorced transfer case for it. but i will also have to see what will work best and if i can even find a divorced transfercase around here. or stick with my 11" lift because i have no problems with that set up yet. and the head light level is just legal also.
12-22-2009, 01:36 AM
#18
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Thread Starter
and yes the truck is getting 10 bolt wheels, i think mabe steel 22.5" because im painting them semi gloss black, and i think if i went aluminums they would just flake over time.
12-27-2009, 03:29 AM
#19
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Thread Starter
alrighhtttt. so today i removed the rear axle and spring perches and springs. i then began the refit of the chevy corp 14. i made new spring mounts and also kept the chevy 63" springs. i have pictures to follow, of just what i did. i now have to find out what i want to do for the rear spring hangers, some kind of shakle flip or somthing of that sort. not to sure yet. anyway heres what i created today. pritty beefy stuff. i also added the helper spring and overload spring from my originalspring pack and it seams like i gained more arch with the chevy springs 
12-28-2009, 02:55 AM
#25
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Thread Starter
here are a few, i dont know if i like the rear hanger or not, is definetly tough. but i am not sure, what do you guys think i could do to improve it?
12-28-2009, 07:41 PM
#26
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Make some triangle pieces and fit the 90* corners together to reinforce the flatstock welded on the bottom of the bracket. If I could draw it and show you I would, but don't have the capabilities.
01-04-2010, 01:13 AM
#28
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Thread Starter
well after doing some more work to the frame of my truck i decided that i need to replace the back half of the frame. i am going to replace it from the cab back. i think ill do 7" C-channel where my gas tank is and then taper it off to 5 or 6" C-channel the rest of the way. my frame rotted through where the gas tank was and is very thin there. so i think this will be the best route to go, along with gusseting the joints where the back half of the new frame will go, along with boxing it. then i know i got something good to go with here. it is also cracking from the rear of the frame forward only 1" or so on both sides and it also is bent downward slightly about a foot in from the back of the frame from way to much load on the 5th wheel trailer hitch. sooo it looks like ill be doing some work here.
01-04-2010, 10:54 AM
#29
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well after doing some more work to the frame of my truck i decided that i need to replace the back half of the frame. i am going to replace it from the cab back. i think ill do 7" C-channel where my gas tank is and then taper it off to 5 or 6" C-channel the rest of the way. my frame rotted through where the gas tank was and is very thin there. so i think this will be the best route to go, along with gusseting the joints where the back half of the new frame will go, along with boxing it. then i know i got something good to go with here. it is also cracking from the rear of the frame forward only 1" or so on both sides and it also is bent downward slightly about a foot in from the back of the frame from way to much load on the 5th wheel trailer hitch. sooo it looks like ill be doing some work here.