progress update: 9mm head, 500K+ miles... no cracks?!
#16
Metallurgy does not change. Torque turned or not....Please post what your talking about so that an old guy like me can learn something new.....Cummins includes a stretch gauge in their head set. Never heard of the drop test other than small cam and big cam cummins pushrods......AKA pushtube's
#17
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i don't know i just heard this from guys when i go to the pulls! I'm pretty sure Wannadiesel told me when we were talking about "what would he do if his HG went" . Don't hold him to that though, it may not have been him.
Guys on turbobuicks.com also say if the bolts float in water they're good, if they sink then they're junk . something to do with hardness/density.
I failed science class so what do i know.
Guys on turbobuicks.com also say if the bolts float in water they're good, if they sink then they're junk . something to do with hardness/density.
I failed science class so what do i know.
#20
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You can do a drop test on headbolts, Like i've been saying the whole time.
thanks for clearing that up Ryan,
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
i'll try to bring everyone back on topic....
anyway, i have the upper engine gasket kit that has new valve seals. should i just leave them with whatever shop i have do the hot tanking and magnafluxing and have them install the new seals? or could i just have them remove the old ones and i myself install them and maybe 60lbs springs when i get the head back home? i'd just need a valve spring compressor which would be well worth the investment anyhow.
also, i don't know how many of the 9mm heads out there have cracked. but i kinda have my head in the clouds thinking that i may be one of the very lucky few without cracks! not to rub it in, but i'm very happy only because i expected the worst. let's hope a magnaflux job won't ruin my day! oh yeah! i stopped by my local radiator shop and showed the guy my head gasket and he said the material built up around the coolant passages looks to be like some sort of "stop leak" crap. i asked him about getting me a crossflow radiator and he asked why and i told him that because of the fact that the coolant is forced to travel across the radiator it's a little more efficient in cooling. but after thinking it over some more, i don't do any towing very much and probably won't for a while. even so, the existing radiator was enlarged by this same guy when my grandpa had the truck and he towed trailers all over the place without a problem (but the "stop leak" material makes me think that just maybe at one point he did have a leak in the radiator). i forget how much the radiator was enlarged, but i think he told me it's a 3 row performance core. anyhow, i'm gonna have him pressure test my radiator and clean it up. if there is stop leak crap in the radiator and it gets washed away and the thing springs leaks all over during a pressure test, i'm definitely going to a crossflow.
anyway, i have the upper engine gasket kit that has new valve seals. should i just leave them with whatever shop i have do the hot tanking and magnafluxing and have them install the new seals? or could i just have them remove the old ones and i myself install them and maybe 60lbs springs when i get the head back home? i'd just need a valve spring compressor which would be well worth the investment anyhow.
also, i don't know how many of the 9mm heads out there have cracked. but i kinda have my head in the clouds thinking that i may be one of the very lucky few without cracks! not to rub it in, but i'm very happy only because i expected the worst. let's hope a magnaflux job won't ruin my day! oh yeah! i stopped by my local radiator shop and showed the guy my head gasket and he said the material built up around the coolant passages looks to be like some sort of "stop leak" crap. i asked him about getting me a crossflow radiator and he asked why and i told him that because of the fact that the coolant is forced to travel across the radiator it's a little more efficient in cooling. but after thinking it over some more, i don't do any towing very much and probably won't for a while. even so, the existing radiator was enlarged by this same guy when my grandpa had the truck and he towed trailers all over the place without a problem (but the "stop leak" material makes me think that just maybe at one point he did have a leak in the radiator). i forget how much the radiator was enlarged, but i think he told me it's a 3 row performance core. anyhow, i'm gonna have him pressure test my radiator and clean it up. if there is stop leak crap in the radiator and it gets washed away and the thing springs leaks all over during a pressure test, i'm definitely going to a crossflow.
#23
Adminstrator-ess
If the shop will install the seals for less than the cost of a spring compressor, then let 'em do it. It's not a hard job at all if you want to do it yourself, though.
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
just dropped off the head at L&R automotive in santa fe springs. they have to disassemble the head to hot tank it. i talked to the head guy there and told him i already have valve seals and that i could bring them in when they re-assemble it. i'm going there tomorrow morning to watch the magnaflux get done and check for distortion. this head's never been off the truck there should be a slim chance that it's not warped. $75 for a teardown, magnaflux and hot tank. but if the head needs to be machined that'll be additional along with a valve job which runs $225. i'm hoping it's not that terrible though.
#25
Registered User
Wow you're gonna be up to $300. Generally the cracks won't show until the magnaflux job. A brand new 7mm head from ACH for $450 isn't sounding too bad.
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
that's what i'm worried about! unless i can find a set of stock 7mm's to get me by for now, but those won't be very inexpensive either
#30
i don't know i just heard this from guys when i go to the pulls! I'm pretty sure Wannadiesel told me when we were talking about "what would he do if his HG went" . Don't hold him to that though, it may not have been him.
Guys on turbobuicks.com also say if the bolts float in water they're good, if they sink then they're junk . something to do with hardness/density.
I failed science class so what do i know.
Guys on turbobuicks.com also say if the bolts float in water they're good, if they sink then they're junk . something to do with hardness/density.
I failed science class so what do i know.