sootnsmoke

After 21 years and 280k miles, the original factory white paint is falling off. It will likely be getting a Maaco paint job. I know, I know...options are limited given the value of the vehicle and full paint prices these days.
Prep questions. I am deciding how far I will strip it down before taking it into the shop given the fact that it is a mask and paint operation there. I will be taking bumpers off (replacing rear with new), marker lights, tail lights

1. The LE side molding are all on tight and secure on this truck. On these first gens, I would imagine removing and salvaging them for reinstall is pretty slim. Any secret to removing them in a way that they have a possibility of being reinstalled without damaging? Are they still available to buy new?
2. The big aluminum "Dodge" plate on the rear of the tailgate...is that held on with adhesive? Any tips on removing and reinstalling it? Really don't want to damage it as the condition is perfect.
3. Power mirrors. I believe removing them completely also requires removing interior door panels to get at connectors to unplug, correct?.
4. I would like to replace inner and outer window felts and weather strip around upper part of driver and passenger window glass. Good source, recommendation?
5. Source recommendation for stock rear bumper?
6. Want to buy a 4 piece set of stainless steel bedrail caps (sides, front and tailgate). Are they made anymore for 1st gens, cant seem to find?

KRB

4. I bought some weather belting several years ago but haven't installed yet as I can't get the danged originals out...

Can't remember the company but it was a recommendation from here.

2mtrucks

You can get the bedrail caps and tailgate caps on Ebay from a place called "got-chrome". I have purchased several sets from them and have been happy with the product and price. Also, the weather stripping and window run channels are available. They are made by Fairchild Industries and are sold by Rock Auto and some others. The body moldings on your truck are attached with a combination of clips and/or threaded studs with acorn nuts.If they are PROPERLY removed they will go back on tight and snug. I would pay and experienced body tech to do this because they are not available new (per my dealer) any more. And your mint tailgate applique is worth about 600 dollars if you can find a nice used one. I would attempt removing it only if I knew exactly how its attached.

j_martin

The LE's fell off of mine. They were held on with a double side foam of some kind. You should be able to cut them off with a razor blade or exacto knife without damage.

Rock auto has all the weather strip and window seals you need. I've noticed you can pay all the way from 12 bucks to 135 bucks for a window belt line seal. 12 is at Rock Auto.

simplysmn

Take a Heat gun and warm them up the glue on the other side then you should beable to pull them off fairly easy . as for the Mirror's you can unbolt them Yes you have to undo the door panel but that is easy also

j_martin

If the glue were heat sensitive they would fall off every day.

Pulling the door panels is pretty easy. You can inspect the inside and maybe do a little rust abating while yer at it.

Accidentally put your foot through the stock paper cone speakers and put some good ones in.

bill-d-c

Alan,
The LE badges are still available from the dealer, I just put a new set on your old truck. They are $34.00 per side. The rest I can't help with much.
Bill

simplysmn

No It would not Because it's not direct heat if you put direct heat they will peel off with some Pulling

sootnsmoke

2mtrucks - Thanks for the referral. I did not see them listed in the "got chrome" store on ebay but perhaps I overlooked them. I sent them an email to confirm. Hope to hear back shortly.

J_Martin. Yes, mine are the same double sided foam of some sort under the body molding. No clips, bolts are anything else. All are in perfect condition except one and they are bonded super strong to the body. I may leave them on and mask. The one molding strip under the gas cap door is damaged as the previous owner put 4 small rivets through it when it started to come loose from fuel on the adhesive tape. Really ghetto. I will grind the heads off the rivets and will replace that one strip. I will contact Mark Nixon to see if I can buy one from him unless anyone knows a source for new. I read through a couple threads from others doing under door panel work and it seems many of the old plastic pieces, clips etc end up breaking during R&R on the 1st gens. That is the only downside but I would rather not have the shop mask around the big power mirror bases. If the door panels come off, new speakers will be going in for sure. Are those 6x9 or smaller in the doors? On the weather channels I am ordering from Rock Auto, thanks. I will check them on a price for a stock rear bumper as well.

Bill - Yes, I saw you replaced your LE badges. I may just remove the ones on the 91 and not replace after paint. However, I haven't decided whether to remove the big fender badges yet for paint as they are on solid, in good condition appearance wise and replacements of those will probably be very expensive. Especially if the little LE ones are $34 bucks each! I just know those big plastic badges will crack up at some point during removal after being on there for 21 years. I need some updated photos by the way with all your improvements on the 92. Seriously, post them up for me. I want to see the walnut stained cup holder assembly that matches the dash front now. As well as the chrome plating you did.

j_martin

The part's abs plastic. If you apply heat from outside, you'll fuddle it up. You have to pull molding and insulation to get at it from the inside.

So why not just shave it off with a razor blade and replace the adhesive tape that will have to be replaced anyway? In this case no worry on the paint either, as it's getting sanded and repainted.

2mtrucks

I should have said my 1990 has threaded studs, acorn nuts and clips. It was the only truck I have repainted.The 1991 I have is original paint so the moldings etc. may well be held on with adhesive...I didnt realize how different the moldings are on the 89-90 vs.91-93 until I went out and looked.

2mtrucks

Just did some checking...Ebay store "got-chrome" now only lists the tailgate cap. DeeZee PN#2141...26.99+12.99 shipping. The bedrail caps are available from Ebay store"Discount Auto Parts" for 91.66 shipping included. "Discount Auto Parts" also has a toll free # 888-311-5148. DeeZee also makes a front bed cap that covers the top (only) of the front of the bed. The DeeZee part number is 5241 and its available on Ebay also from a seller called "yamahahayzrider 191 for 44.99"This isnt an Ebay endorsement..its just hard to locate this stuff locally. And I forgot to add that these are diamond plate aluminum, not stainless. Ive only seen the bed rail caps in stainless and not recently.

user name

0. You didn't ask this but if the paint is falling off it needs sanded out and primed before paint. Also Maaco is as good as any shop that uses low end paint(more than you'd think) they just do none of the prep so it's up to you how good it turns out and how well it stays on.
1. 92-93s are held on with double sided sticky tape with the exception of the forward piece on the front fenders and the cab corner they have nuts on the inside the the panels. The best way I have found to remove this is with mig welding wire and two vice grips in a sawing action between the panel and the molding on the taped on parts. Then have fun getting the sticky off the panel there are rubber wheels that fit drills from most good auto parts stores.
2. This is screwed on from the back side I'll try to get a picture tomorrow.
3.yes
the rest I don't have any good answers for.

1STGENFARMBOY

If the side trim is on tight i would leave it, if you take it off ( DO NOT ) curl it, peel it off, i don't really know how to say it, keep it as strat as posible, you can crack the clear that is over the small chrome strip on the bottom of the trim, when you put it back on you need to use the (good) 3M trim tape and make shure when you touch it to the truck it's where it goes because you cant move it once it touches.

the LE tail gate trim is held on by three different things, double sticky tape, screws on the inside of the gate (10 or 12 torx), and 4 small plastic push clips on the four corners of the trim panel, you can get a flat blade screwdriver and lay the flat part on the inside of the clip that is in view on the edge of the gate kinda by the latches, push them out from the inside (don't try to prey them out between the panel and the tailgate.

dang thats hard for me to explain.

i have found the smooth stanless bed caps but nothing els, i will post the link shortly.

Dar

1STGENFARMBOY

found it...

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...WILBR4201.html