93Dod350TB

I am getting this truck from a family member and i went over there today to pick it up and i started it and it hasn't been started in about 2 months. well i finally got it started after bleeding the injectors and i had it running and was looking under the hood when i saw the bottom of the IP was pouring a good steam of fuel out of this little hole on the bottom on the IP. there are two of these holes and they are right next to eachother. If you are looking at the IP from the driver side fender it is the closes hole to you that is pouring this fuel. does anyone know what that hole is and why it is pouing out fuel??

tboling

Are sure it's not leaking some where else and running down? I'm not sure what two holes your talking about.Check govener shaftand sleeve, oring and washer on the fuel screw,and the afc pin bushing leaking fuel into the afc pushing it out the back hole the afc top. It could also be the oring on the feed line at the frount of the pump. If it's down low on the diver side check the kdp for leaks theres two screws that hole it on and an oring that seals it and and spring under the cover.

Bookshelf

I bet its the o ring on the throttle shaft, same thing happened to mine after sitting a while.

wannadiesel

The other place that's common is the cover for the backside of the timing piston. It's easy to fix - except that the pump has to come out to get access.

93Dod350TB

Yeah I heard that it was most likly that back plate. A Diesel shop around here told me that and they said that they could take off the pump and replace that o-ring and put the pump back on and turn it up for me for $225.00. Is that a good deal or should I just do it myself?

bgilbert

If you don't have the tools or knowhow, then it's probly ok. Most likely once they got it removed (the pump) they'd give you their sales pitch on why it needs more than just an o-ring and a tune up. 'You're gonna need a rebuild'... etc etc... Pull it yourself, learn a little, you'll appreciate it. $0.60 o-ring found in a $15.00 gasket kit little bit of elbow grease with basic hand tools or spend the money and be in their hands...

93Dod350TB

I am just worried about getting the pump and everything back in time. How hard is it to get back in time? I just heard the it was kindof hard to put everything just right.

bgilbert

It would be hard to get something wrong. The pump will ONLY go on one way. The pump shaft is keyed, and the engine is keyed (pump gear).

imabnormal

i just replaced mine and it's not too hard to do, but you can definately screw it up!

it took me 2 hours to get it out and 1.5 hours to put it back in. this was the first time that i ever did one but i've been a mechanic of one sort or another for 14 years.

if you have any doubts about it then i'd pay the $225. it's going to chew up at least 4 hours of your life and maybe a whole lot more than that.

you will also need special tools (a 13 mm "s" wrench, 17 mm flare nut wrench)

couple of tips:

1) lock your pump timing before you remove it
2) remove the injector lines in sets. remove the back 3 first and then you can get to the rear-most line which goes to the front.
3) there are 3 bolts holding the support brkt to the block. loosen the middle one and remove the upper and lower ones and then let it pivot toward the firewall on the middle one. in my case, i would have to remove the power steering pump to get the middle one out, but i could loosen it a little. pivoting toward the back is good enough.
4) the top bolt on the pump can be reached fairly easily with a 13 mm socket on a 1/4 drive universal and an extension
5) the bottom bolt requires a 13 mm s-wrench. sorry, it's the only way.
6) a craftsman harmonic balacer puller kit will pop the gear loose from the tapered pump shaft if you install it flat-side out and then use a short piece of steel stock to press against the shaft while you tighten the 8mm bolts (included in kit).
7) there should already be match marks on the pump and gear housing. make sure before you do anything that they are there and visable.
8) if you lose the pump or engine timing there is a way to get it back that isn't too complicated as long as you have your initial match marks. if you need that info, pm me with your email and i can send you photos of how i did it. (i did loose me "zero" because i did it wrong, but you can get it back)

ok, sorry--"couple of tips" turned into a book...but there is some info above that i wish i had 3 days ago....

hope it helps.

bgilbert

Yeah you sure can screw things up if you don't pay attention, but I meant it's hard to screw up the timing. As long as you are pulling the pump and putting the same pump back on, there's no need to lock the shaft/pump timing. All that will do is destroy your pump internals when you reinstall, start up and forget that you locked the shaft last weekend when you pulled the pump.

93Dod350TB

Thanks for all the help I think I will try this myself. I am pretty good at this kind of thing and I have all the tools known to man so..... I'll post back and let you guys know how it went. thanks again

blueberry

I think the biggest dangers are losing the half moon key or having the pump gear jump a tooth. If you lose the half moon key, then the timing case cover has to come off, which adds to the job and parts list. If your tappet cover gasket is leaking it would be a good time to replace it since the pump has to come off to do it. There is an index mark on the pump that should line up to a mark on the timing case. Note the position of these marks and put it back this way when you are reinstalling. It will take a bunch of time the first time, but once you learn the process and pitfalls you become more proficient. Good luck, Brian.