POR 15 prep and ready?
#3
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Why would you need it on aluminum? My understanding for POR 15 is that it binds with the rust... Now I haven't looked to see if they have an aluminum product... but what you want is somthing that will increase the adhesion of the paint to the aluminum
As for POR 15 and steel - I have a b-ball standard I painted decades ago. All I have to do is refresh the wihite topcoat periodically. The POR 15 works like a champ (it was left over from a long gone automotive project - funny how that works)
As for POR 15 and steel - I have a b-ball standard I painted decades ago. All I have to do is refresh the wihite topcoat periodically. The POR 15 works like a champ (it was left over from a long gone automotive project - funny how that works)
#5
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The POR 15 Prep and Ready is a spray on that is supposed to aid in paint adhesion on aluminum.
http://www.por15.com/METAL-READY/productinfo/MRG/
Just wondering if anyone has used it or if needed.
I want to paint some aluminum tubing on a cold air intake I am building.
Jeff
http://www.por15.com/METAL-READY/productinfo/MRG/
Just wondering if anyone has used it or if needed.
I want to paint some aluminum tubing on a cold air intake I am building.
Jeff
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stay away from POR15 for your frame or anything else that flexes, it gets cracks and THEN rusts from the inside out... i know several people who have had bad experiences, from different areas. You need some flex agent or flexible product for the frame.
Jeff you can use some standard outdoor, low ph cleaners to achieve the same results for a third the price per gallon.
Look into something called super IRON OUT, its made by super crystal. its a concentrated powder that removes all sorts of corrosion and rust or lime deposits. You can find it at a home depot or other hardware stores. My experience in painting aluminum is a quick scuff with scotchbrite pad and paint. I've been doing this for 5 years and nothing has chipped or peeled yet.
remember more thing coats are better than 1 or 2 thick coats.
also may want look into a cheap auto-store brand prep-all solvent to remove any oils from your fingers before painting. no carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner won't work for this.
Jeff you can use some standard outdoor, low ph cleaners to achieve the same results for a third the price per gallon.
Look into something called super IRON OUT, its made by super crystal. its a concentrated powder that removes all sorts of corrosion and rust or lime deposits. You can find it at a home depot or other hardware stores. My experience in painting aluminum is a quick scuff with scotchbrite pad and paint. I've been doing this for 5 years and nothing has chipped or peeled yet.
remember more thing coats are better than 1 or 2 thick coats.
also may want look into a cheap auto-store brand prep-all solvent to remove any oils from your fingers before painting. no carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner won't work for this.
#7
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stay away from POR15 for your frame or anything else that flexes, it gets cracks and THEN rusts from the inside out... i know several people who have had bad experiences, from different areas. You need some flex agent or flexible product for the frame.
Jeff you can use some standard outdoor, low ph cleaners to achieve the same results for a third the price per gallon.
Look into something called super IRON OUT, its made by super crystal. its a concentrated powder that removes all sorts of corrosion and rust or lime deposits. You can find it at a home depot or other hardware stores. My experience in painting aluminum is a quick scuff with scotchbrite pad and paint. I've been doing this for 5 years and nothing has chipped or peeled yet.
remember more thing coats are better than 1 or 2 thick coats.
also may want look into a cheap auto-store brand prep-all solvent to remove any oils from your fingers before painting. no carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner won't work for this.
Jeff you can use some standard outdoor, low ph cleaners to achieve the same results for a third the price per gallon.
Look into something called super IRON OUT, its made by super crystal. its a concentrated powder that removes all sorts of corrosion and rust or lime deposits. You can find it at a home depot or other hardware stores. My experience in painting aluminum is a quick scuff with scotchbrite pad and paint. I've been doing this for 5 years and nothing has chipped or peeled yet.
remember more thing coats are better than 1 or 2 thick coats.
also may want look into a cheap auto-store brand prep-all solvent to remove any oils from your fingers before painting. no carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner won't work for this.
Nick;
Thanks, I was hoping some one who has painted aluminum would post there experiences.
Jeff
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POR15 does NOT adhere to smooth plastics which I use apply the paint. If you leave the brush in the residual paint it will all stick together.
When you remove the brush the residual paint comes out with the brush. The dried paint looks to be a form of plastic which in thinner areas has the texture of a heavy duty trash bag.
So how flexible is the dried paint? Well here it is double folded without cracking and when released it goes right back to being just as it was before folding.
Failure to follow instructions, taking shortcuts such as in wet times and drying times for for the sub processes, improper or incorrect thinning and improper surface preparation will always cause paint failures no matter how much the paint costs or what it claims to do when properly applied. Also, NO paint or process will last forever as mother nature always wins over time.
#9
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Nice write-up! I am also a POR-15 user. I like their product and the results look great, even when a paint brush is used. I had a friend who painted a bumper with it and liked it until it flaked off. He was disapointed in the product and was ready to write it off as a poor investment. I asked him......did you use the metal prep, marine clean, and UV top coat???? No, No, and No. He stripped it once again and re-did the job, turned out great!
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