Please help, Cant get truck running, fuel problem!
08-19-2005, 12:12 PM
#17
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My 91 would go thru hard start problems, then just died.
It turn out to be a bad wire connector that goes to the fuel selenoid. Selemoid was good the connector was bad.
Rich
It turn out to be a bad wire connector that goes to the fuel selenoid. Selemoid was good the connector was bad.
Rich
08-19-2005, 04:07 PM
#18
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Ok everyone, I took the start/stop solenoid thing off and pulled the about 1 inch plunger out and spring, reinstalled , no change. No difference whatsoever. Cranked on it for awhile and still nothing. no for sure its a fuel problem, because i put some starting fluid (very little ) in the turbo and it fired right up. Just wanted to make sure that it was a fuel problem> Any other suggestions? Thanks for all your help so far
08-19-2005, 04:20 PM
#19
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A tip on starting fluid, disconnect your grid heaters before you use it. That is unless you want an explosion. Also with the grid heaters disconnected, you can use as much starter fluid you want. I run year round with my grids disconnected.
After you got it fired, did it continue running? Is so did you let it run, and bleed each fuel line with the engine running?
I would disconnect the grids, crank on it while spraying starter fluid in the turbo/air filter, get it running, keep it running - with the ether, and go and crack all fuel lines at each injector and at the inlet and outlet of the fuel filter. Hopefully you just have a ton of air in your system. BTDT with a buddies truck, he swore I wouldn't be able to get it started, and that he had a pump(s) failure. Took out his sissy battery, put my group 31 in, he cranked while I bleed each line, took awhile, but we got it started.
After you got it fired, did it continue running? Is so did you let it run, and bleed each fuel line with the engine running?
I would disconnect the grids, crank on it while spraying starter fluid in the turbo/air filter, get it running, keep it running - with the ether, and go and crack all fuel lines at each injector and at the inlet and outlet of the fuel filter. Hopefully you just have a ton of air in your system. BTDT with a buddies truck, he swore I wouldn't be able to get it started, and that he had a pump(s) failure. Took out his sissy battery, put my group 31 in, he cranked while I bleed each line, took awhile, but we got it started.
08-19-2005, 04:51 PM
#21
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A grid heater is like a toaster for the air in the intake manifold. It reduces emissions on cold starts and aids in starting in extremely cold weather (below zero). The grids are located directly under the intake elbow on top of the engine.
To disable the grid heaters: You will see 2 big relays on the driver's side fender, those are the grid heater relays. Pull one of the small wires off each relay (they are just push-on connectors, very easy to do). This will prevent the grids from being energized.
Unless you are somewhere very cold the grids should not be kicking in this time of year. They are not supposed to turn on until below 60 degrees.
To disable the grid heaters: You will see 2 big relays on the driver's side fender, those are the grid heater relays. Pull one of the small wires off each relay (they are just push-on connectors, very easy to do). This will prevent the grids from being energized.
Unless you are somewhere very cold the grids should not be kicking in this time of year. They are not supposed to turn on until below 60 degrees.
08-19-2005, 05:49 PM
#22
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in extremely cold weather (below zero).
To the point, I dont think it is air in the system. If it were me i wouldn't worry about your grid heater, but that is me. I would use WD40 to start it. I think it is your starting springs in the pump. The are a spring that opens to give full fuel at start up, that is the reason most diesels have a puff of smoke on start up. If there is any life left in them putting the pedal to the floor on start up will make it start. I find when my the grid heater is working on mine she starts alot easier. there is a pic in my of the pump and the bracket cut off with arrows so you can see.
Cooper
08-19-2005, 06:39 PM
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1st off simple check up crack all 6 injectors put air in fuel tank about 5 psi that will bleed everything nice check if you got fuel at all 6 injectors thight then make sure shut off lever is at on position put fuel pedal to the floor and crank it see what appens
08-19-2005, 06:46 PM
#25
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what shut off lever are you speaking of? is that the lever on the side of the pump? Its all the way forward and is spring loaded. you have to manually pull it back , but thats to manually kill the engine right?
08-19-2005, 09:07 PM
#26
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Ok im just about done , before I just sell this stupid thing. I had it running for about 2-3 minutes on ether, and nothings coming up. I think something in the pump is bad, not allowing fuel through. Any other suggestions for i just cut my losses and sell this thing? Thanks for all the help though.
brian
brian
08-19-2005, 09:29 PM
#27
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Brian,
Two quick questions. First, did the truck quit on you while you were driving it or was it running fine when you parked it and then wouldn't start the next time you tried it? Second, where are you located? Just by chance, there may be a DTR member near you who could offer some more specific help if they looked at it.
Sorry you're having a bad experiece w/ your Cummins. They really are great motors once you get them running.
Two quick questions. First, did the truck quit on you while you were driving it or was it running fine when you parked it and then wouldn't start the next time you tried it? Second, where are you located? Just by chance, there may be a DTR member near you who could offer some more specific help if they looked at it.
Sorry you're having a bad experiece w/ your Cummins. They really are great motors once you get them running.
08-19-2005, 10:34 PM
#28
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did you check fuel pressure on lift pump THAT IS WAT LP IS rule of thunb if its under 3 psi theres your trouble lift pump is that small pump before big pump that has lever on it put a psi gage between lp and vp should get aver 3 psi in between the 2 lift pump is wat primes the big pump so that maybe you trouble get it checket if its bad its about 50$ for replacement
is fuel tank full sometimes theres a line in there that could be cracked
or a fuel line between tank and lp
is fuel tank full sometimes theres a line in there that could be cracked
or a fuel line between tank and lp
08-20-2005, 12:34 PM
#29
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First off, the trunk ran ok (noticed it was running alittle rougher on the last drive) shut it off to unload my car at the paint shop, then tried to restart the truck, and would not start. Also, fuel pressure getting to the pump I dont believe is the problem at all. I disconnected fuel line out of the mechanical fuel pump, and ran the truck with ether to see what the pump was doing, and it shoots out ALOT of fuel at a good rate, so I think to that point is good. Basically all the way up to the injector pump fuel seems fine. Im located in sacramento,ca. What sucks is this motor is twice as strong as my old motor, so ive been loving it for the 3 months Ive had it in this truck, up to this point. Hate to get rid of it, but i just cant figure it out, and im stressed, and the truck does me no good sitting in front of my house. Its 28ft long flatbed tow truck, so it takes up alot of room. I usually park it at my parents house.
