to paint, or not to paint?
#1
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to paint, or not to paint?
My buddy had a truck painted by a guy for cheap, so i talked to him.
after a walk around, some talkin, and me decidin on what color id like to go under the molding, he gave me a quote.
i want to have above the molding red (probably stock) and then under the molding a dark gunmetal grey. and........
A 1000 for an acrylic enamel paint, door jambs included
B 1300 for a base coat with a clear coat.
from what ive heard he would take off three or four hundred to skip painting the jambs. also, we are searching for a new hood to put on instead of fixin a nasty (ish) dent its got on it and the SURFACE rust thats on it.
if we stick with the old hood it would be a repair by means of copper stud weld and bondo and some fancy pants fiberglass stuff.
what do ya'll think???? and be honest lol
after a walk around, some talkin, and me decidin on what color id like to go under the molding, he gave me a quote.
i want to have above the molding red (probably stock) and then under the molding a dark gunmetal grey. and........
A 1000 for an acrylic enamel paint, door jambs included
B 1300 for a base coat with a clear coat.
from what ive heard he would take off three or four hundred to skip painting the jambs. also, we are searching for a new hood to put on instead of fixin a nasty (ish) dent its got on it and the SURFACE rust thats on it.
if we stick with the old hood it would be a repair by means of copper stud weld and bondo and some fancy pants fiberglass stuff.
what do ya'll think???? and be honest lol
#2
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1300 is a great deal as long as he does good quality work. I would get the bc/cc for sure it is a much higher quality. Do you know what brand paint he is using?
#3
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i agree with onemoparnut. 1300 aint bad at all. id paint the jambs though. as far as the hood goes....if you can find a good used one for a decent price that would be a helluva lot easier then messing around with the one you have. honestly the only im "doing my truck up" is because of all the rust/rot issues i had. other than that if it was a rust-free body id let it be, the peeling paint doesnt bother me...after all its a truck. when make it all pretty, as long as theres no rust/rot who cares?! lol id spend the money on power mods or a new rifle
#6
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Be careful piling the clear on. This new paint is designed to be applied at a certain film thickness. To little and it won't hold up to the sun and too much and it will probably crack. Most bc/cc systems out there only call for 2 coats its not like the old laquer paints where it looked better and better the more paint you piled on. Just my .02.
#7
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again i have to agree with onemoparnut...your painter will know exactly how many coats of clear to put on. the tech sheet that comes with the paint will tell you. people generally apply 2-3 coats of clear. im not sure what im gonna do yet, atleast 3 coats...maybe 4 so i cant cut and buff it starting at 800 grit (to get rid of the urethane wave and make it truly "flat" also to get rid of any orange peel it may develop) then 1000 1500 2000....
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#8
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ya i mean a couple hundred bucks to make the jambs look good in the long run isnt bad at all. i think itd be worth it. lol
he's gonna use the stock dodge red. the r40 or whatever. but i do believe thats just color. not sure on brand. but you can be certain im checkin it out before i let him do ANYTHING. lol
my buddy in my study hall tells me everday that my paint job i want wont look as good and i should do blue or silver or black. but then again he drives his daddy's powerstroke.......
he's gonna use the stock dodge red. the r40 or whatever. but i do believe thats just color. not sure on brand. but you can be certain im checkin it out before i let him do ANYTHING. lol
my buddy in my study hall tells me everday that my paint job i want wont look as good and i should do blue or silver or black. but then again he drives his daddy's powerstroke.......
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