archer39

I heard some crunching under my feet the other day and removing the carpet reveled this



i absolutely hate body work and really stink at it. how far do you think i should cut back. the shaded green all seems pretty solid. do you think it would be good if i replaced everything inside the green area.

any tips would be helpful, i am a complete noob when it comes to this stuff.

mullishacrew

insted of making all the bends and wierd lines you should cut the entire piece out straight across where ur line is closest to ur seat is and then cut the whole section up to where the metal is good at where ur firewall is and use that kind of as a template and bend it to fit and then use smaller pieces to scab in metal where ur foot would go for the throttle just to the right, just you will have to get under the truck or try to find where they tac welded the floor to one of the cross pieces on the left hand side of your picture where the big hole is, thats how i went about mine and then fiberglassed it all after, both passenger and drivers side were bad.

Crossy's son

Hey zach, when we did ours it was worse then that but id go farther back to the seat, like get rid of that little triangle peice and jus make it go farther back towards the seat. ill post up some pics.

Crossy's son

pics go in order sequence. first one is before anything was done









hope this helps a little,
Brandon

archer39

thanks brandon, the pictures did help.

i was not planning on cutting out around the triangle near the seat. just showing where it was still solid. i want to make it as easy as possible because my fabing skills are not the greatest. but it should not matter on one will ever see it under the carpet.

Richie O

That is minor, check this out.














I had to replace the floor, rockers and cab mounts in one piece from a donor cab. Here is one of the donor cab.

PapeCAT

It is really too bad, these floorboards sometimes rust from the inside - out!! Moisture or water gets in from leaking windshield seals, cowl cracks, wet shoes..

My crew has a tad bit of cancer like yours as well... easier than the roof replacement I guess

Crossy's son

it took me and my dad a few nights and he has 30+ years of fabrication, we had to do the SAME EXACT thing on the pass. side though, it should take you a few nights. use a grinder

archer2

You have to keep cutting until you find clean bright metal as you cannot mig onto rust, so that is what dictates how much you have to remove. Just take your time and patch panels are available for the floors already pre bent and rolled stiffeners in so you could just install a whole new floor pan in that area.

Trebor

I agree, I think they still sell a patch panel for that. Make extra sure you treat the front cab mount inner channel. They rot out and then the cab binds and settles.

archer39

anyone know of a good source for patch panels other than whats in the sticky?

DNRCustoms

X2... When I did the one on my dump truck, thats what I did, just cut untill you have something to work with, I just made a cardboard template of what I needed and when to the metal shop in town and they shered a piece to my specs, If you don't have access to a metal roller or something.. You can just start at a spot and start tacking your way down and bending it while working your way down the panel..

93beater

whats rust??

archer39

haha, must be nice!! My truck is currently covered in salt which is causing all this rust

frmll300

I put a new floor pan on the drivers side of My 90 this spring . I bought it thru the local auto parts place. I think it was about $90 ,didn't take long to put in .