tech-eh

well I need a new engine had a bit to much fun last week now i have enough blow by to inflate an air Matrissa very quickly
yes the tubes are unblocked
pops the oil cap off when loosened no water in oil and fine powdery metal
on magnet on oil drain plug think graphite like
ring a ding ding I suspect thinking one ring broke but mostly likely shattered they are brittle and is digging up the side walls as I type lol

so looking to get a used block
one of each 12 valve or 24 v has been found sitting two years out of a truck but turned over by hand occasionally
turbo and fuel pump on them too for $1000 each

my truck is 90 12 valve non inter cooled auto ( from a 86 3500 van) dully that drives highway lots with loads of tools in rear 800 lbs most days and pulls 6500 trailer some distance three or four times a year
at first was just going 12 v buttttt

should I get the 24 valve ? and can I drop it right in I have choice of ether 12 or 24 valve
then
should i go

1 with over sized pistons or just rings considering the new used block is worn but not scored

2 line boring and balancing the crank planning on balancing the pistons and rods my self

3 arp studs or other stronger bolts ware

4 do the the head port /polish etc on 24 valve for hp or get more torque with the 12 valve when i work on that

5 checked kdp not done definitely will do that

hmmmmmm any comments would be appreciated

rrgrassi

I do not know if the 24v would just drop in. IMHO, stick with the 12v.

cougar

Beware of the 53 block cracks on the 24 valves. You should also P pump it if you want to go that route. The VP44 pumps are twitchy. Using a 2nd gen engine, weather 12V or 24V there are a lot of parts you will need to swap over from your 1st gen engine to get it fit in place.

tech-eh

yes your right had my choice of three engines 24 valve 12 valve intercooled or 12 non intrercooled went with 12 intercooled
came as
long block complete with turbo and pump
going to crack it open this week