So far, around here, the blue jugs, one-gallon, two-gallon, and five-gallon pail are still the old CI4.

For what it's worth, I mostly use John Deere (still CI4), and Kendall, Conoco, Phillips (all three the same people) each offer at least one formulation that is still CI4.

 

No. Keep up with the factory recommended oil changes and you will be fine.

 

So,if I switch to Amsoil do I have to run special filters ? I've always used FRam filters but I buy the good ones not the elcheapo's !!

 

Yes and no. If you run the EA oil filter from Ams, then those can go for extended intervals too. If you run "regular" cellulose filters, then they have to be changed at OEM intervals - but the oil can still go extended intervals.

 

i run a 6 thousand mile oil change sometmes i go a little over. will that affect it at all with the cj-4 junk? now yall got me scared im gonna hurt my girl!!!

 

The work truck I run (06 Duramax) uses Amsoil that's good for 7000 miles. As such, we cut the annual oil change labor cost in half. Add that to my time that could be otherwise billable and it saves money in a hurry.
The truck has one of those fancy oil monitors that would get after me if I got behind a timely change before the Amsoil. It's never complained since switching.

The wife's 07 300 runs the same but with the Amsoil labeled 25,000 mile filter (in case I forget when the last time I changed the oil ) I can't recall who makes them but if I remember correctly it was a reputable company.

 

I've been there, done that with amzoil, and honestly can say that I didn't notice any increase in economy or performance to justify the higher cost. This is an internal combustion engine, so any oil in the crankcase with be subject to contamination. To achieve the extended drain intervals, you will see many users of this product installing additional filtering systems on their engines, which adds cost, and requires changing filters routinely and adding make-up oil. To safely extend the drain interval on your engine, you should send samples of used oil to a labortory for analysis, and this too adds cost again. I have seen numerous oil analysis reports of this particular brand oil thickening out of grade during extended use.

Synthetic lubricants in the driveline is another story. Internal combustion does not take place here, and the higher cost can be justified through safely extending the drain intervals.

As previously stated, the best virture of synthetic lubricants are temperature extemes. If cold cranking often in sub-zero weather, a synthetic engine oil may be of benefit. However, most published data on cold cranking viscosity is on new, fresh oil, one only knows what it is with accumulated mileage on it.

Just my opinion. I know I want to treat my truck well, but I know it's value now is a fraction of what it cost new. High priced engine oil isn't helping trade-in value.

 

What sets it off? Time or conditions?

 

[quote=RollinCoalSmoke;2486837]I run the Shell Rotella in 8 trucks and would be hard to convince to change. I've lost 1 engine in 9 years but that was due to the drain plug coming out. ]
Has any one herd about problems Rotella was having recently, something about there oil foaming and causing engine failure?

 

I think that was a few years ago, maybe around the switch to common rail? it would foam at the high pressure needed to fire the injectors?

 

i just had amsoil put in my truck last week as i finally fixed all my oil leaks. the dealership/shop that did it says, and its also on the jug, that their oil is guaranteed to 25,000 miles or one year which ever comes first. it cost me $160 to have it done (with 2 extra quarts) when a regular oil change (using rotella synthetic) cost me $65. so in the course or 25,000 miles using rotella i would have spent $270, so saving me $110. i did notice that it started easier and ran a little smoother. havent had a chance to check milage yet although i doubt that it will make a noticable difference.

 

There are other filters designed for extended oil change intervals available too. Donaldson's ELF series are the best filter out there, and Fleetguard's Stratopore filters are pretty good. Truck parts shops can sell you these for considerably less than Amsoil wants.

It'll be fine.

 

Do you know if they used engine flush that Ams suggest before they installed it? I used it in the two Gas vehicles I own, but I was afraid to in my Cummings as it just turned 200k. I just put it in.
My neighbor found a sight that some independent company did an analysis of ALL brands of oil. I will try to get in touch with him and post it, its what convinced me.

 

I can't resist this one.

I have been running Amsoil in everything I own for about ten years. On my truck I have the remote full flow and polishing filters mounted behind the front bumper. I haven't had an odometer since I bought the truck so I change oil filters every six months and oil once a year. The two oil filters hold about two and a half quarts that gets replenished at every change. I most likely average less than 25,000 miles a year so it is well with in the drain interval recommended by Amsoil. I run the Severe Gear 75/140 oil in the rear/front end and transfer case. Admittedly that is a little overkill as far as weight goes but it is easier to keep in stock. I also run Universal ATF in the A518 with a quart of Lucas Transmission Treatment. The Lucas raised the viscosity a little and firmed up the shift. Time for an oil change next month along with the state inspection.


Shop around for price. Amsoil dealers are independent and if they do a large volume of business they reap the rewards through discounts and they sometimes pass it along. The local NAPA owner is a dealer and I can't compete with his pricing unless I put in a very big order. I do it just for convienence more than anything.

 

I recently noticed our NAPA had an entire shelf-unit stocked with all kinds of AMSOIL products.

I didn't have the extra time to check it out; I just noticed it was the most obvious display right in front of the door.